Very curious also if you can tell ANY difference in handling and if too new yet keep us posted.Looks Really Good!!!

 

Looks Great

 

Something isn't right! I drove about 5 miles and it started clunking HORRIBLY! It happens when the shock expands. I will have to mess with it more, hoping it is just needing to tighten up the top side of the strut to the bracket. I can't see anything wrong by looking.

Here is what I did:
The bottom side of the bushing was not used. This shock doesn't have the flared part that is essentially the stop. On the stock shock it adds about an extra inch, so without it there aren't enough threads to use it.

So I drilled out the plate at the top of the dust boot, it slides over the threads but doesn't go past that. This is really the only thing keeping the strut piston compressed. Next is the mounting plate, then the upper bushing (with modified sleeve), washer, and nut.
The sleeve that goes inside the bushing was cut shorter and drilled out to 1/2" for the larger threads on the new shock.

With the stock setup the bottom half of the bushing fits into the upper bushing, with the shock mount between them. The metal sleeve running inside of both bushing halves. This keeps the shock centered in the mount. Since I couldn't use the bottom half, I can't keep the new shock centered exact. It was close as I tightened it up though.

My guess is that either the shock piston is shifting around in the mount, or the bolt on the top side of the mount isn't tight enough, which would still allow the shock to go off center.

 

Man, she looks amazing lowered. I was debating only doing the rear on mine, the front already sits low enough on mine. Plus don't you have 22"? I only went with 20"

 

I have 22's, just put them back on today. Here is a pic before I swapped rear shocks but with stock wheels.

I also measured BOTH wheels today while off the vehicle. New wheels are 3/4" wider but overall diameter is almost identical. New ones are supposed to be 0.6" larger but actually looked smaller if anything! Bi am running 285/40R22.

 

Maybe I wasn't clear enough, but was looking for some opinions & help. I wasn't able to screw with it anymore tonight, will do it in the morning. If anyone has any other ideas of what the issue might be or anything else to check, please let me know!

 

BTNKK,

The stance is nice! Hopefully you're not sacrificing safety for looks though. Sorry can't be much help for a solution.

 

I agree, if I can't make it safe I'm going back to stock. Aside from safety, it's sounds embarrassing! I'm trying to find a way of keeping that strut centered in the mount, I really think that is the issue.

 

I Agree...

 

Possible to get a custom bushing made, like when you can get the ones done for off road control arm bushings? Sounds like you just need to build a buffer/sleeve for it....?

 

Ok, here is an update. I was correct, the shock was not centered in the mount when removed. It didn't fix the clunking though. Good news for anyone thinking of trying, i found a way to do it without modifying the stock components. I went to Lowes and got two different sizes of rubber bushings.

I put the 15/16 bushing over the threads, the opening in the shock mount is 1" so this bushing fits inside of it. This keeps the shock centered in the mount, and since the I.D. is 3/8" it fits over the threads without using the sleeve bearing from the stock bushing. I used the larger bushing on the top side of the mount, it doesn't fit thru the opening. I did have to cut the nub off of it. Top it of with a washer and cap nut.

So I got it centered in the mount and tightened up. My only complaint is the height of the 15/16" washer, it is slightly higher than the mount, so it doesn't clamp down on the mount until you tighten up the nut and compress the bushings.
The clunking is still there though (see video link). It could be because of that bushing height, but I realized it have metal-on-metal where the boot cap meets the shock mount. I think that is causing the clunking. I plan to put a rubber or neoprene pad in there for an isolator. I will also put a thinner bushing in the lower part if I can find one.
Now for the ride. It now feels like a lowered vehicle, the back is somewhat bouncy. A couple of times it rubbed the tires with my 100# daughter in the 3rd row. I couldn't really feel a difference in the handling unless it is a bumpy corner, then it bounced. What would be perfect is a modified shock mount. We could use the stock load-leveling shock, but reduce the height by an inch. I really like the feel of the stock shock better!

To be continued...

 

I hope you get that figured out, it's loud!

 

Well guys, I went back to stock! I drove maybe 30mi that way, noticed it seemed to feel like it was bottomed out on the driver side. When I opened it up tonight, found the top of the shock wasn't even in the mount!!! Talk about scary! The bushing on the top side completely tore away, so when I had the suspension expand the top nut came right thru the bottom of the mount. On the passenger side the bushing was barely hanging on. Maybe a large metal cap washer would have kept it together. Not sure, but I'm getting tired of screwing with it, and don't want to risk safety or damaging something badly.
I plan to have a custom upper mount fabricated, so I can use all stock components (other than the mount).

 

Brian,
As I mentioned in a previous post, I too have the Eibach springs. I had bought the non-leveling shocks but because of the thread size difference I didn't do the install and sent them back, so currently I'm riding on the stock Nivomat shocks. I threw this question out before but didn't get any opinions but maybe now that you have had both shocks in hand and have seen them up close you could shed some light on the subject.

Can we take the replacement shocks with the 12MM threads and have them machined down to 10MM to fit the stock mounts? Is the threaded shaft the same length and just the thread size the only difference or is there more to it than that? Let me know you thoughts and opinion.

In a related note, last week I noticed the truck looked like it was leaning a bit to the drivers side by about an inch. When I got home I measured and sure enough the one side was lower than the other by approx 3/4". I left the truck parked for about a week while I was away on vaca. and now the truck is level again. The driver side is back up to the same as the passenger side as it was originally. I guess the leveling shock on the driver side wasn't leveling for a bit. I wish both sides would have dropped that much because it looked really good with that drop. Weird!!???

 

No, that wouldn't work. On the stock shock, the piston is fatter. When it reduces, there is about 1" of no threads, then about 1.25" of threads.
On the Monroe, the piston is smaller. When it reduces, there is the length of threads and that is it! That is why there was no room for all of the stock bushings.

 

Isn't Koni or KYB making them for the new D as well? Anyone have experience or seen to compare?

 

I don't know about Koni, but KYB does. It is 12mm threads as well. I haven't seen it though, so don't know about the thread length. I suspect it is just like the Monroe.

 

Glad you went back to stock, just thankful that nothing happened .. that would have been some scary sh!t if that would have completely fallen apart.

 

:mrgreen::clap::clap:I Like SCARY STUFF.....

 

So here's what I am doing. I purchased these upper mounts and new dust shields. Going to order non load leveling shocks and make the swap next week. Here are some pictures of the new mounts. I also purchased the Road Magnet springs.

[URL=http://s57.photobucket.com/user/jules2jade/media/FOT37F6_zpscazzwzsu.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s57.photobucket.com/user/jules2jade/media/FOTAF52_zpsdlqxmoh2.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s57.photobucket.com/user/jules2jade/media/FOT2732_zpsz1osc1um.jpg.html][/URL]

 

Are those stock replacement pieces that you intend to modify or are they from a JGC or another model DD?

 

Another model Durango with out load leveling shocks. No modification necessary.

 

I wonder what springs/solution Eibach will offer in their kit that's still in R&D...

 

Here are a few better pics.

I know a few people were asking about more pics.

 

Looks good! Can't wait to hear more from Eibach.

 

Mybleu300 so you don't have a clue what Eibach did on your truck or are you sworn to secrecy until it's released? We are all eager to either get this working or plan to lower our trucks... Share the wealth so our trucks can look as good as yours!

 

LOL.... No they kept me out of the loop for that reason I am assuming. I asked as many questions as I could. They did assure me they would do best they could to make the best kit possible. They had my truck for 2 weeks to try dift setups and do test drives with it. I like what I have so far. But was told it is not the final product. They kept the prototype on the car till they are done manufacturing the shocks and the springs.
Sorry Guys! That's all I got. Glad you guys like the car maybe if you guys call them and say we know it is in the works it will push them to release them faster

 

Well I spoke with Eibach R&D today to follow up on my call to them back in December. They are forgoing the development of lowering springs for the DD. The marketing department said the volume would not be enough to justify the cost of a production line just for the DD. Seems the demand wasn't there so we won't get a lowering solution from Eibach.

mybleu300, did Eibach complete the testing and tell you anything more about the prototype springs they put on your D? Can you confirm what I was told from their R&D rep?

 

Already called, but I doubt the Durango is high on their to do list...the DD is probably low volume to them.