Dodge Durango Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
* UPDATED PART NUMBERS 4/17/2020 *

Sorry it's a long post. About to get my 15' DD R/T back home to the US and getting my parts list ready for FINALLY getting my Brembo Upgrade done and would love a sanity check for the parts based on the numerous threads here. Also thoughts on pads and wheel options as below.

Wheels:
I care about unsprung weight. Using a decent rim and wheel combo close to or less weight than stock is ideal. Stock with wheel and tires seems to be around 70lbs.

20x9
So I know any 20x9 with a +34mm or +35mm offset will fit (and may get a cheap(er) set for winter tires).

20x10
What about the OEM SRT 20x10 with the +50mm offset? I assume those will fit, but has anyone done this one? (Answer is yes, many people and so did I.) I like the traditional spider monkeys, but really like the SRT y-spokes (the 9173 from the Trackhawk SRT) and want to get those in the Hyper Silver color (thanks to @ZPirate for that wheel contact).
FYI, the PVD Black Chrome are awesome and I picked up a set or y-spokes from here:


Brakes (Calipers):
I'll just buy new MOPAR ones, as trying to find used or rebuilt seems impossible lately:
  • MOPAR Caliper - Front (Right): 68146610AA
  • MOPAR Caliper - Front (Left): 68146611AA
  • MOPAR Caliper - Rear (Right): 68367044AB (or now 68367044AC)
  • MOPAR Caliper - Rear (Left): 68367045AB (or now 68367045AC)


Brakes (Caliper Crossover Line):
IF you use the above numbers with the NEW style of rotors on the Jeep and SRT Durango now, the cross-over in integrated in the caliber and the cross-over line is not required. If you get older ones from the Jeep SRT, you'll likely need crossovers.


Brakes (Hardware & Kit):
Anyone have a good resource for the banjo bolt copper crush washers? $4 per copper washer from FCA seems dumb.

Looks like the ol' AC/Delco kits work or there's a Centric kit as well:
  • AC/Delco - Front: 18K2108X
  • AC/Delco - Rear: 18K1970X
  • -OR-
  • Centric - Front: 11735041
  • Centric - Rear: 11762069
    • NOTE: Rear pin sets that DON'T FIT:
      • Centric 11762051 (pins too short)
      • Carlson H5934 (pins too short)

Brakes (Rotors):
SRT Rotors are 380mm front and 350mm rear.
Rotors are rotors for me, I've had them all from slot/drilled, etc. I just dump them in the recycle bin each pad change anyway. Not autotracking the heavy SUV, so I don't really need slotted, don't want drilled, so these seem to be decent for a solid vented rotor (I do tow once in a while):
  • Centric Rotor - Front: 12058010
  • Centric Rotor - Rear: 12058009

Brakes (Pads):
No ceramics. I occasionally tow and ceramics are generally not good for towing.
There seems to be mixed reviews on the NAPA Extreme Performance semi-metalics. Anyone using anything else like the Centrics below?
  • NAPA - Front: UP8513M (Extreme Performance semi-metalic)
  • NAPA - Rear: (I don't see a part number for the rears on the 350mm SRT rotors)
  • - OR -
  • Centric PQ Pros - Front: 50014051
  • Centric PQ Pros - Rear: 50010530
  • - OR -
  • Centric Posi-Quiet - Front: 10510530
  • Centric Posi-Quiet - Rear: 10410530

Brakes (Shoes):
Yes, shoes. The e-brakes unfortunately instead of using an extra pin to exert fluid pressure and extend the normal pads, they have smaller e-brake shoes inside the rotor housings, and are replaced and adjusted just like normal brake shoes. Part numbers are TBD (should not have to replace very often).


Brakes (Lines):
I can't seem to get a solid answer for the Goodridge SS Lines and if they fit correctly. Some had reports of the fronts not being long enough and breaking on the hard links. Anyone running these and been good? Maybe other SS lines people have used with the Brembos like Powerstop or others?
  • Goodridge G-Stop SS Braided Brake Line Kit: 15010
Or, if I don't want to mess with it and just stick with the correct fitting to not have to grind ANYTHING down:
  • MOPAR - Rear Left: 68284574AC
  • MOPAR - Rear Right: 68284575AC

Brakes (Speed Bleeders):
I contacted SpeedBleeder direct for the proper caliber speed bleeders. Next pad swap I'll install these:
  • Front - SB1010S, M10 x 1.0
  • Rear - SB1010S, M10 x 1.0

Install Tips
  • NO caliper brackets required for front or rears, the Brembo's bolt direct to the knuckle
  • Lube the slide pins and caliper piston surfaces (Sylgide works awesome for brake jobs), watch those rear hardware kits, not all work.
  • You WILL suffer replacing brake lines. Known issues with re-attaching the tube nuts from the steel lines to either the OEM or new lines, see the post here about it: Rear brake lines - Help getting these things in!
  • Make sure to have 3-4 bottles of brake fluid on hand, you'll burn through it bleeding the brakes out (speed bleeders make this SO much easier).
  • You MIGHT have to get a flush from the dealer so that they can activate the ABS if you had quite a bit of fluid loss when you change the lines (I was able to get enough pressure, but had a flush from the dealer to make sure they were good as they were still spongy after LOTS of bleeding).



View media item 104791
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
I had to make my own crossover line, super easy with small tube bending tool. Used the Goodridge G-Stop SS Braided Brake Line Kit: 15010 with no problem, did not need to grind anything down and they are the correct length. Installed the speed bleeders making bleeding a whole lot easier. You will need 20 x 10 +50 offset wheels to clear the calipers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,093 Posts
I have 20x10+50 spider monkey wheels and 295/45/20 tires. No fitment issues. There are some tight clearance tolerances on the front wheel to knuckle but nothing to cause a problem.

The rear calipers (don’t know what year) had an update and the external crossover tubes have removed and it’s all done internally. So if you plan to buy brand new with the part numbers you listed I would assume you would get the updated rears.

I went with Wagner Thermoquiet Semi Metallic pads and could not be happier. I think I paid around $75 for the whole set front and rear.

I thought about using the SS brake lines but I’ve had SS on other vehicles and don’t feel it really has made a difference that I can feel. I just used the appropriate rear lines so I didn’t have to grind flat the connection point on the hose to the caliper.

Feel free to ask any questions, here to help!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Looking at doing a similar swap myself - could anyone explain the crossover line please? I'm assuming that's the small hardline that connects the two sets of pistons - are they not needed on the grand cherokee or something?

Thanks for any info!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
I have the original Brembo from the 2014 JGC SRT, the line connects the two sides of the pistons. The new Brembo calipers for the DD SRT have the crossover passage internal integrated in the body.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Added updated rear Brembo kit part number, now append "AC" to them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Added Speedbleeder part numbers, tweaked the hardware kit numbers, and added some install tips.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top