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Fuel pumps have a huge variable range of potential problems....think of it this way ... every time you put gas in you can be putting in contaminants, ie water, dirt, rust, bad gas or even diesel. these pumps have to endure a lot of abuse and with only getting a new filter when you replace the whole unit it doesn't get any relief. yes leaving the tank at 1/8 is bad for it specially if there is all those contaminants in the system, getting that low in fuel will concentrate all of them onto the pump and putting strain onto it. at my shop we have only ever replaced a fuel pump in a grand cherokee once in the 6 years i've been there.
 
having the fuel pump issue on my durango. i see all the posts for the 2011-2013 about the fuel pump relay but i dont see much for the 2014s. the car will start good most of the time. but every now and again it wont. for awhile if i pulled the ecm relay it would start. but now nothing works. does anyone know if there is a fuel pump relay anywhere or is it probably the fuel pump? thanks in advanced. im new to this page sorry if it has been posted already but i cant find it

i should add, the car turns over just fine but wont fully turn on
Just wondering if you have any resolution with your problem? Experiencing the same thing and it’s back at the dealer.
 
Anyone find a solution? I have a 2014 citadel with push button start that just cranks and cranks and cranks but wont turn over. After about 10 seconds of cranking it stops and if I push the push button start again it turns on no problem. I am guessing it is the relay too.
 
having the fuel pump issue on my durango. i see all the posts for the 2011-2013 about the fuel pump relay but i dont see much for the 2014s. the car will start good most of the time. but every now and again it wont. for awhile if i pulled the ecm relay it would start. but now nothing works. does anyone know if there is a fuel pump relay anywhere or is it probably the fuel pump? thanks in advanced. im new to this page sorry if it has been posted already but i cant find it i should add, the car turns over just fine but wont fully turn on
I tried all kinds of solutions, and nothing worked. Finally, on a whim, I decided to disconnect my TIPM (fuse box). I cleaned all the connections with compressed air, used dielectric grease on those connections, put it back together. It started right up and hasn’t given me any further issues. Best of luck!
 
Nice! Glad to hear you got your problem solved. I actually purchased a new relay online and thought I would take the TIPM out and desolder the old relay and solder the new one one and see if that helps. I'm waiting on the relay to come. Do you mind if I ask what parts you cleaned and applied grease to? Did you put the dielectric grease in all the fuse connections as well as on the large connectors that connect to the tipm?
 
Recall, that like the Charger, the Durango has 2 pumps. The rear driveshaft has to come out to get the tank down. Labor is not a quickie on this R and R.

Courtesy of tomk, from the FSM:

"This vehicle uses a saddle type tank that has a reservoir on both sides of the drive shaft. The electric fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and fuel filters are integrated into the main fuel pump module located on the left side of the fuel tank. The auxiliary fuel pump module is on the right side of the fuel tank. The fuel supply fitting is located on top of the main fuel pump module and supplies fuel to the engine. Both modules have fuel level sending unit sensor cards. There is one hose that connect both modules together, this hose is the fuel supply line and a return or siphon hose. The lines are removed from the main fuel pump module on the left side of the fuel tank when servicing either unit. A 12 volt, permanent magnet, electric motor powers the fuel pump. The electric fuel pump is not a separate, serviceable component."

Don
Just a point worth clarifying - The Aux fuel pump is a jet pump with no moving parts, not a secondary electric fuel pump. Jet pumps don't fail unless you get something that blocks the line, which is highly unlikely without deliberate intent. The only failure you're ever likely to see of the aux pump is of the float sensor (which does require replacement of the assembly).
 
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Just a point worth clarifying - The Aux fuel pump is a jet pump with no moving parts, not a secondary electric fuel pump. Jet pumps don't fail unless you get something that blocks the line, which is highly unlikely without deliberate intent. The only failure you're ever likely to see of the aux pump is of the float sensor (which does require replacement of the assembly).
You know, Im having the same 'long crank' if not warm issue. Sometimes remote start will fail too and then it refuses to try again of course..

And, as you may remember, I also already have cleaned and di-electric'd the PDC connections and the connectors from underneath :/

It actually persisted from the 5.7 to the 6.4 after the swap, so I think we can safely rule out any problem with plugs or sludged/crusty bits in the block/heads :)

Truth is, I really need to look at an upgraded fuel system anyway... Fore maybe? :)

2014 R/T Durango, 6.4L: swap, RIPP Vortech supercharger @ 8# boost
 
Umm, telling us what vehicle you have and the mileage along with a little history would help. Change the pump relay first then do the pump if needed. Check wiring to the pump to if you pull the tank down.
 
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