[cchampagne232000]

Next issues:

• I had to redo two ground wires. I plan to get a ground wire kit and replace them all.
• low oil pressure. I think I borked the oil pressure sending unit on the firewall while installing the motor. Have a new one. Going to install tonight.
• Bleed brakes. I did NOT bleed the master cylinder. I ordered on of these: How To: Syringe Bleed a Master Cylinder | Master Power Brakes
• I also ordered Russell Speed bleeders all the way around. Truck and SUV Application Guide - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products #639590
• Which gets me thinking about the rear end swap. Moving that hulk to neat the garage to see if I can get it prepped for swap before the snow flies.
• Radiator. I am using just water to get the last of the incorrect fluid out of the evap core. The one thing I forgot to flush. FSM requires HOAT compatible fluid. Going to have to swap that fluid out before it goes on the road or it seriously starts freezing around here.... any day now.
• air conditioning needs a gasket/washer redo kit. Condensor needs to be painted. Plus new drier. I think the expansion valve is under the dash? Any one know?

​Stay Tuned!
​

Expansion valve is on engine side of firewall opposite of the evaporator. Passenger side just follow your AC line from your dryer.

 

[repoman]

Brakes a bleedin'

Brake lines bled. In the dark, cold, Hey, I live in Michigan. There is a sense of urgency since snow is possible over night up north. Had some help from my fiance. Left RR bleeder slightly open. Went to test and shot fluid all over under the truck. What a mess. I had to bleed them all over again.
I have speed bleeders coming Friday. Swap those out and another bleed. I got a syringe and a master cylinder bleeder kit to bleed master on vehicle. Did that first .

For the CAB brake controller, you can turn the key to run, wait a few seconds for it to cycle and shut it off. Apparently this is supposed to help push the last bubbles past the CAB and proportioning valve. When you get fluid at the calipers, this air should have been pushed past the CAB controller. ( RWAL, drum or disc versions) . There is a similar trick I have heard for the AWAL brake controller. However I do not have experience with this one. Also the CAB controller version used on the 2003 that has the proportioning valve built into the unit, same trick in more or less this order:

• drain pan under master cylinder
• ( master cylinder can be bench bled, syringe bled, or nipple and tube bled on vehicle)
• open two lines at master cylinder, pump brakes till fluid comes out, tighten back line just before helper bottoms out with pedal, have them hold it, tighten line.
• rinse repeat front line
• turn vehicle to run, wait 5 seconds, turn off. This causes CAB to selfcheck. RWAL should have the ABS light on if air is in CAB. Do this a couple of times.
• Bleed right front caliper, with key at run ( not started).Once you have clear fluid, cycle key again. Bleed left front caliper, key at run, cycle after you have fluid.
• Now proceed to bleed in normal manner, LR-->RR-->LF-->RF.
• PROTIP for RWAL: A common issue is air on top of axle where the splitter for each wheel line goes each wheel cylinder. The air can flip flop from side to side and not get pushed out of the back system. Since the back wheels are on one hydraulic "circuit", you can/should bleed both rear wheel cylinders at the same time. ( yeah you need a second helper to do this unless you have speed bleeders) just set up two bottles with fluid and hoses, then have both bleeders open at the same time. This forces all the air to be completely flushed out of the back section.

 

[that_guy]

That's interesting to hear about the CAB being able to be bled like that. I had always heard you needed a DRB tool to cycle it to bleed it.

 

[MoparFanatic21]

Brake lines bled. In the dark, cold, Hey, I live in Michigan. There is a sense of urgency since snow is possible over night up north. Had some help from my fiance. Left RR bleeder slightly open. Went to test and shot fluid all over under the truck. What a mess. I had to bleed them all over again.
I have speed bleeders coming Friday. Swap those out and another bleed. I got a syringe and a master cylinder bleeder kit to bleed master on vehicle. Did that first .

For the CAB brake controller, you can turn the key to run, wait a few seconds for it to cycle and shut it off. Apparently this is supposed to help push the last bubbles past the CAB and proportioning valve. When you get fluid at the calipers, this air should have been pushed past the CAB controller. ( RWAL, drum or disc versions) . There is a similar trick I have heard for the AWAL brake controller. However I do not have experience with this one. Also the CAB controller version used on the 2003 that has the proportioning valve built into the unit, same trick in more or less this order:

• 
  drain pan under master cylinder
  ( master cylinder can be bench bled, syringe bled, or nipple and tube bled on vehicle)
  open two lines at master cylinder, pump brakes till fluid comes out, tighten back line just before helper bottoms out with pedal, have them hold it, tighten line.
  rinse repeat front line
  turn vehicle to run, wait 5 seconds, turn off. This causes CAB to selfcheck. RWAL should have the ABS light on if air is in CAB. Do this a couple of times.
  Bleed right front caliper, with key at run ( not started).Once you have clear fluid, cycle key again. Bleed left front caliper, key at run, cycle after you have fluid.
  Now proceed to bleed in normal manner, LR-->RR-->LF-->RF.
  PROTIP for RWAL: A common issue is air on top of axle where the splitter for each wheel line goes each wheel cylinder. The air can flip flop from side to side and not get pushed out of the back system. Since the back wheels are on one hydraulic "circuit", you can/should bleed both rear wheel cylinders at the same time. ( yeah you need a second helper to do this unless you have speed bleeders) just set up two bottles with fluid and hoses, then have both bleeders open at the same time. This forces all the air to be completely flushed out of the back section.

I was loosing brake fluid and now have ABS and Brake light on. Could this cause it?

 

[repoman]

Typically ABS light:

• rear axle sensor, RWAL
• 4 wheel sensor(s) AWAL
• CAB controller not passing self test
  • Controller bad, code stored in controller
  • AIR in circuit

Sounds like you have air in it.

set up to bleed left front caliper ( shortest length from master/CAB)
bleed front caliper
turn key to run, do not start, do not press brake pedal
wait 5 seconds
return to off position.
bleed LEFT front caliper,
if you see a bubble of air come out, you got it, if not rinse repeat the turning key to run. May take 5 or more tries. I got it on my 3rd round.


then bleed brakes as normal RR,LR,RF,LF.

 

[repoman]

First test drive

First test drive. Getting down to a few problems left.

 

[repoman]

Transmission oil cooler redux

I did not like the small trans cooler that the former owner(s) had cobbled together. You can see if briefly in the video above hangin down.

• The trans lines were cut, and rubber trans line was used to oil cooler only.
• It was NOT run through radiator oil cooler.Transmission Parts US Transmission Cooler re-installation kit by Derale
• plastic trans cooler mounting clips, you have to push through my new radiator. Even worse is being able to put plastic lock on back side of radiator in either direction. Interferes with fan, or I would have to drain the radiator and take the whole radiator, fan, shroud top and bottom,condensor out to effectively put this in place.
• Since the add on trans cooler is smaller than the oil cooler in the radiator, the trans cooler set up had effectively less cooling than just using the factory trans oil cooler in radiator, or adding it in series to the factory oil cooler.
• one of these Transmission Parts US Dodge / Jeep radiator adapter kit I used the mounting points on the condensor, added the fender clips for bolts, grabbed old bolts from spare radiator, and used the lower line that wraps around radiator and down in back.

 

[repoman]

Got truck aligned:
Get it home notice one side is higher than the other.
Two issues left. I need to remove the flexplate/transmission cover and reposition it so it does not interfere with the flex plate. If you have never heard this sound. Oh man, you don't want to..
Reset torsion bar heights with some measurements.
I'll get the correct oil sender for my gauge on nov 5th.

I am pressing the Black beast into service now. I have now made two runs to work. I can tell the lower end torque is all there. trip computer immediately settled at 14mpg instead of 11. So we will see how this works out over a tank of gas. If I can keep my foot out of it...

Next weeks sessions, swap to chrome rims I have from donor vehicle,
Start prepping axle rear suspension for swap. I see more powdercoating in my future.

shop crane used one last time to put old motor on engine stand, before tearing it down and stowing it.

 

[repoman]

breaking bad bolts II

I'm taking the former owners man card away for in ability to fastener.

Here is the fix to the broken sway bar cap. Now with moar grade 8

 

[repoman]

Framed by the Frame

so I used a chainfall and some straps, got the old 2003 bent frame from the back yard on the trailer. Took it, 10mph, 2.5 miles to the scrapper, got weighed, and got all the way to start unloading it, when I was tapped on the shoulder by someone asking for the title. Well I can't give them the title cause I need it for the body that has the VIN of the 2003 on it. This will be needed for the reconstructed title. So back to the house 10 mph.

We're gonna need a bigger torch.

 

[repoman]

Framed irony

So the scrapper says that they have to have the title, however if the frame were cut up, it would be scrap metal?

what?I thought the whole purpose of having the title was to end there being "chop shops".I'm not arguing, just
playing their game by their rules... So i borrowed a torch.

maybe spent 30 minutes tops

 

[repoman]

Throwing P0402.
First time I look into it, PVC was not working. Okay easy fix?
Nope. broke off, had to remove the cam cover to get it out and clean.
Ok that fixed, drive to work, P0402 again!
go back look, hose from LPD to front of throttle body, tore off and was lying on the intake manifold.
Put it back on, reset the code ( 2nd time)
Make a second run for firewood, get all the way home,
P0402.
So It's saying o2 sensor not working efficiently, so I try to grab a new upstream O2 sensor from NTK. NOPE won't fit.
so head out again to advancedautoparts, get the right one(DENSO oem not NTK upstream) . And so far ( reset #3), it has not reset the code. The truck idle smoother and decellerates smoother. I was monitoring with my bluetooth reader. the voltages are lower and more even now front to back.

Still have to move the flexplate cover from inside the oilpan lip to outside.

Having some odd braking issues., going to install Russell speedbleeders tomorrow and rebleed. Also checking the intermediate shaft in the axle. Make sure that it's seated in the snap ring properly. I have a full set of 4 speed bleeders of some one wants to buy them off me. I bought double what I needed.
I think it's air in the dual pistons up front. It grabs and feels unstable. I checked the PS, to make sure no air in that. All good there.

 

[cchampagne232000]

Have loved every bit of this. Looking good.

 

[repoman]

rear end unshackled

In preparing for the rear end swap. I did a photo survey of the axle as it sits. Last weekend I jacked the rear axle up and onto an old broiler stand ( I was able to use the Black beast to get rid of 700# of metal). Here are my rear end glam shots.. (insert pun). Get a load of the shackles and see how clearly unsafe they were!

 

[repoman]

Project update, 1000 mile check in

Some glam shots today a the Mausoleum here in Lansing. How fitting for the "Black beasts" body to have some glam shots take at the cemetery. Where the body is destined to go too.

So I have been fighting and chasing an P0420 code. I checked and replaced the pcv valve, hoses,front O2 sensor.
Using my OBDII bluetooth reader for real time data, the back O2 sensor "appears" to be bad. The voltage should stay steady around .5v yet this thing bounces wildly about
like front does and should. I have had several times the header to Y-pipe bolts have come loose. Also causing this code. I still could have an intake ( Hughes FI Air gap) leak. So I still need to go retorque these to 31 inch pounds in the recommended pattern. I could also actually have a bad cat, and I need a infrared thermometer to see the before and after temps along with the front and back o2 sensor voltages to determine which part is left. Lastly there could be a leak in my exhaust too, that I haven't found yet. As you can see we are in the throws of winter here in Michigan.

I had a snowfilled couple of runs last week on the way to work and I did NOT have the inner fender liners on the front of the vehicle. This resulted in a huge ice brick forming over the connector for the rear lights, brakes, EVAP, and fuel whip to the back of the truck here is a shot of my horribly falling part body on the 2001. You can see this whole area was one huge block of ice.

So I was off to my local junk yard. I cannot begin to say enough good about this business.

​

Since Cat, the owner has taken over the place is run properly, organized, staffed by friendly works, yard is kept clean. They also will pull part for you for a small fee. Best of all, and this is stated right at the counter, that you price is dependent on your attitude! Trust me working with a yard where you feel like they are you partner in your auto tasks is great. I have been using Cats for 20 years. I've recycled 4-5 vehicles, bought one engine, two transmissions, multiple other small and large parts. They help get cars lifted when necessary in the yard so you can pull it yourself. I've bee graciously given lots of small plastic parts. I always check with Cats first before I start any project on a vehicle. So I needed lots of body 1/4 body push pins and 4 1/2" wide 1/4 push pins for the fender liners. I searched and found a boat load of them. Most of the first Gen Durangos have use once rivets holding the fender liners on. Once you break one you need the push pins. I found that dakota SXT gen 1 and the 90's Voyager vans all have the pins I needed.

not the best picture
Top left are the two types most auto stores have on the shelf. the 3rd and 4th are off Saturns and old pontiacs
Bottom row left is the original large push pin that goes into the inside top of the wheel well in the back, The next 3 types came from front wheel wells from a Voyager minivan. Work perfect for the larger pins.

After I got that all grabbed I decided that I should take a short inventory of the other Durangos in the yard.


wait.. what is this?

Yup almost every part for a full K&N 57-1517-2 Air Intake, 57 Series FIPK cold air intake. Filter is dirty, but i have a service kit. All I have to do is order a few brackets that were missing and clean and re-oil the filter and we're bring 11 more horsepower to the plate ( according to their online infos).

In the end I go to check out and the counter guy, iirc Pete says " Merry Christmas". Free my favorite price. I don't ever expect a business to do such things, they would not be in business long. However if you wanted to solidify your customer base for life, doing this one and a while makes all the difference.

So to all the fine folks at Cat's parts mart and to Cat herself for running a great business, this customer for life take his hat off to you!

​

 

[MoparFanatic21]

Love your thread and enjoyed taking to you on here and threw emails. I'm sad to say I junked my Durango and even though I always wanted one and loved them will never buy a new one.

 

[Citadel Brian]

Repo, just make sure there are no cracks around the bolt hole. K&N replaced mine and a whole lot of others because of cracking.

 

[repoman]

Repo, just make sure there are no cracks around the bolt hole. K&N replaced mine and a whole lot of others because of cracking.

Can you please define which bolt hole? I found what looks like a repair on the back side of the thing. Looks like a crack filled with clear silicone.

Also since I am running the FI air gap intake, I have to mod this to hold my intake air temp senor ( iirc the name). I was looking around www.mcmastercarr.com for a bung that I could put on the intake, to hold the sensor in there better. Right now I have it through a cut hole in the rubber intake I have on it Now.

I am already running a rectangular K&N drop in filter. I have to order the cruise control bracket today or tomorrow if the donor vehicle in the junky doesn't have it. I didn't know you needed to move the cable for the cruise in order for this to work. So I have not installed it yet.

I have another couple of posts to put up today. The black beast is dying.... ( body). and it's a mess.

 

[repoman]

https://imgflip.com/i/1h6j2g

 

[repoman]

Cold day for a cold air intake

Finished the cold air intake installation yesterday. It was a balmy 32*F. I discovered that there had been a design change from the time this one was created. I callled K&N with the part numbers for the product I got from the junk yard around Christmas


Two design flaws that I could detect were:
mounting of the cruise control bracket to firewall
routing of cruise control cable was a full 180*.


think about it for a minute. I can see two glaring ones, which leads to their part number with the -2. The nice phone rep, looked at the part diagram with me online, confirmed the parts I needed, and asked me to hold. She came back and after getting my address said "Sir I have confirmed that these parts are available in the parts bin for you, we will be sending these out to you with shipping free of charge. ( my favorite price).
When the parts arrived, I recieved the whole hardware pack plus the rubber cushion gasket in two plastic bags.


I prepped the engine bay by
removing the battery

removing airbox. Notice old k&n air filter.

two nuts to remove, one for air box, then one for cruise control module.

blurry shot of top airbox nut

cruise control bracket, 10mm.

CAREFULLY pop black push connector out of cruise control bracket first, I know this now!
lower bracket nut, save 'em you will need them later.

remove whole unit, unplug. ( yeah I am replacing that "fender"). scratches be damned..lol

..continued kinda backwards because of limits of 10 pics per post. So the posts will look out of order..