[DelDurango]

sometimes when I start my D in the morning, it acts cold-blooded: it'll stall if I don't have my foot on the gas pedal. after I drive down the street, it straightens up and acts right. any ideas?? :?

 

[IndyDurango]

Dirty TPS. If it keeps dying, the battery.

Wait a minute? YOU are the mechanic.

IndyD

 

[FSTDANGO3]

Dirty TPS. If it keeps dying, the battery.

Wait a minute? YOU are the mechanic.

IndyD

I wasn't going to say anything I swear.
BUT, since you just did the Intake repair, a small vacuum leak could be present as well
As Indy stated, the battery may be getting ready for a dirt nap as well
Steve
DOC Pres

 

[DelDurango]

battery's less than 6 months old. Duralast Gold.
the odd thing is that it doesn't happen above like 35 degrees. only when it's cold.
and, while I may be a mechanic, I'm not all knowing. I'm just a smartass!! :lol: that's why I know where to ask questions when it's above my head, or I just need another perspective. :bugeyed:

 

[dizzyD]

When was the last time you cleaned your TB? Have you tried to reset the computer and see if it still happens? Maybe that Colorado altitude getting to you or your D. :lol:
Don't you run 85 Octane gas up there? Try running something higher?
All thoughts

 

[DelDurango]

somewhat cleaned the TB when I changed the plenum plate gasket. the computer got cleared when 1 of the battery cables came loose. maybe need to concentrate on the TB. maybe also need to clean the IAC, IAT sensor, and anything else on the intake/TB that can be cleaned. might even try running some fuel system cleaner (any suggestions for what I can pick up @ the local parts store??) down the TB to clean the valves.

speaking of 85 octane, this is the only state that I've seen that low of an octane. I'm used to 87, 89, 91, 92, 94, & 96.5 fuels.

 

[IndyDurango]

Dirty TPS.

Dirty TPS.

IndyD

 

[DelDurango]

Dirty TPS.

Dirty TPS.

IndyD

maybe it's a dirty TPS. guess I could try to clean 1 of these days. :cheesy:

 

[MWeed]

I'm not familiar with the brand of battery you say you have. If it has caps for the cells, I'd suggest checking the electrolyte level in the cells. It could be that it's not very high, allowing the cells to freeze, or get close to that. This limits there functionality until they warm up a bit.

 

[tomk]

just MHO, I wouldn't clean a TPS? just pop a new one in?

But if it only happens cold, I wonder if it might be the coolant or intake-air temp sensor?

Fire up your OBD-II scanner and see what you read for coolant and intake-air temps on a cold start?

 

[DelDurango]

ok. all I need now's an OBD II reader that can read on the fly. actually, that would be a good idea. I'll have to talk to my Matco & MAC tool dealers. see what they wanna charge. another thought would be to find a program & the cable to hook up my laptop to the OBD II data port. anyone know about anything like that??

 

[Unnamed]

Mine does this all the time when it's cold outside and the engine is cold (<45 degrees.) But I attribute it to my cams since it wasn't nearly as bad before I got them.

When I tap the throttle while she's cold it'll stumble and try to stall if I rev to about 2000 and just let off the thing WILL stall. Personally I wouldn't worry about it while it's cold, but if it EVER happens while it's warm, it's time to do something.

Also When I thought my TPS was bad, it was really just undervolting so I did the "TPS mod" completely fixed my warm stalling problem. The symptom I was seeing regularly was irregular reving and idling and it'd stall at stop lights or if I tapped the throttle the right way.

 

[Siggi Gunda]

Mine does this all the time when it's cold outside and the engine is cold (<45 degrees.) But I attribute it to my cams since it wasn't nearly as bad before I got them.

When I tap the throttle while she's cold it'll stumble and try to stall if I rev to about 2000 and just let off the thing WILL stall. Personally I wouldn't worry about it while it's cold, but if it EVER happens while it's warm, it's time to do something.

Also When I thought my TPS was bad, it was really just undervolting so I did the "TPS mod" completely fixed my warm stalling problem. The symptom I was seeing regularly was irregular reving and idling and it'd stall at stop lights or if I tapped the throttle the right way.

The temperature has gone down to - 13 Celsius here and there has been no problem at all with my D. However the other day I was cleaning and waxing it and it took a few hours and the CD player was on the whole time with loud music untill the CD player started to stop and go I turned the music off and started the D it bearly turned the engine but I got it runing but it wouldn't idle I had to keep it above 2000 rpm so I drove it for a wile and then it was ok. I cheked the battery and I could see the cells so I added some water to all the cells and it has been ok since. So I guess it's a bad battery that's the couse of this problem also if the battery isn't good it'll be even worse when it gets colder.

 

[Unnamed]

Mine does this all the time when it's cold outside and the engine is cold (<45 degrees.) But I attribute it to my cams since it wasn't nearly as bad before I got them.

When I tap the throttle while she's cold it'll stumble and try to stall if I rev to about 2000 and just let off the thing WILL stall. Personally I wouldn't worry about it while it's cold, but if it EVER happens while it's warm, it's time to do something.

Also When I thought my TPS was bad, it was really just undervolting so I did the "TPS mod" completely fixed my warm stalling problem. The symptom I was seeing regularly was irregular reving and idling and it'd stall at stop lights or if I tapped the throttle the right way.

The temperature has gone down to - 13 Celsius here and there has been no problem at all with my D. However the other day I was cleaning and waxing it and it took a few hours and the CD player was on the whole time with loud music untill the CD player started to stop and go I turned the music off and started the D it bearly turned the engine but I got it runing but it wouldn't idle I had to keep it above 2000 rpm so I drove it for a wile and then it was ok. I cheked the battery and I could see the cells so I added some water to all the cells and it has been ok since. So I guess it's a bad battery that's the couse of this problem also if the battery isn't good it'll be even worse when it gets colder.

Funny? the exact same thing happened to me while I was cleaning my mom's Sebring. :lol: 'cept mine wouldn't even start OR turn over.

 

[Siggi Gunda]

Mine does this all the time when it's cold outside and the engine is cold (<45 degrees.) But I attribute it to my cams since it wasn't nearly as bad before I got them.

When I tap the throttle while she's cold it'll stumble and try to stall if I rev to about 2000 and just let off the thing WILL stall. Personally I wouldn't worry about it while it's cold, but if it EVER happens while it's warm, it's time to do something.

Also When I thought my TPS was bad, it was really just undervolting so I did the "TPS mod" completely fixed my warm stalling problem. The symptom I was seeing regularly was irregular reving and idling and it'd stall at stop lights or if I tapped the throttle the right way.

The temperature has gone down to - 13 Celsius here and there has been no problem at all with my D. However the other day I was cleaning and waxing it and it took a few hours and the CD player was on the whole time with loud music untill the CD player started to stop and go I turned the music off and started the D it bearly turned the engine but I got it runing but it wouldn't idle I had to keep it above 2000 rpm so I drove it for a wile and then it was ok. I cheked the battery and I could see the cells so I added some water to all the cells and it has been ok since. So I guess it's a bad battery that's the couse of this problem also if the battery isn't good it'll be even worse when it gets colder.

Funny? the exact same thing happened to me while I was cleaning my mom's Sebring. :lol:

Must be a Mopar thing :lol:

 

[Siggi Gunda]

Mine does this all the time when it's cold outside and the engine is cold (<45 degrees.) But I attribute it to my cams since it wasn't nearly as bad before I got them.

When I tap the throttle while she's cold it'll stumble and try to stall if I rev to about 2000 and just let off the thing WILL stall. Personally I wouldn't worry about it while it's cold, but if it EVER happens while it's warm, it's time to do something.

Also When I thought my TPS was bad, it was really just undervolting so I did the "TPS mod" completely fixed my warm stalling problem. The symptom I was seeing regularly was irregular reving and idling and it'd stall at stop lights or if I tapped the throttle the right way.

The temperature has gone down to - 13 Celsius here and there has been no problem at all with my D. However the other day I was cleaning and waxing it and it took a few hours and the CD player was on the whole time with loud music untill the CD player started to stop and go I turned the music off and started the D it bearly turned the engine but I got it runing but it wouldn't idle I had to keep it above 2000 rpm so I drove it for a wile and then it was ok. I cheked the battery and I could see the cells so I added some water to all the cells and it has been ok since. So I guess it's a bad battery that's the couse of this problem also if the battery isn't good it'll be even worse when it gets colder.

Funny? the exact same thing happened to me while I was cleaning my mom's Sebring. :lol: 'cept mine wouldn't even start OR turn over.

I'm thinking about a second battery just for the stereo, CB and DVD I can have a devider between the batteries so that the starting battery gets charged first and then the other battery.

 

[WarrensD]

I'm thinking about a second battery just for the stereo, CB and DVD I can have a divider between the batteries so that the starting battery gets charged first and then the other battery.

This is very easy to accomplish. Install a "battery combiner," (not an isolator.) It's a relay or solenoid that wires between the two batteries. When the combiner detects an elevated alternator voltage (sometimes user adjustable), it allows the excess charge voltage to be applied to the second bank.

Don't use a "battery isolator." The inefficient diodes remove up to one full volt of charge potential, resulting in chronic undercharging.