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Replaced my AEM wideband with a PLX. Was recommend by Jay Greene cause the AEM I had was a bit too bouncy and laggy to get it anymore dialed in. So far it seems way more stable. Also has some other pretty cool features. If I ever go boosted, this is a multi gauge so it can be used as a boost gauge too. Has sensor health feature which detects the "life" of the o2 sensor (my current one was still 100%), and has a sensor reaction time setting.
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Replaced my AEM wideband with a PLX. Was recommend by Jay Greene cause the AEM I had was a bit too bouncy and laggy to get it anymore dialed in. So far it seems way more stable. Also has some other pretty cool features. If I ever go boosted, this is a multi gauge so it can be used as a boost gauge too. Has sensor health feature which detects the "life" of the o2 sensor (my current one was still 100%), and has a sensor reaction time setting.
View attachment 118990
View attachment 118991
Purpose of the toggle switch attached to the gauge?
 
Purpose of the toggle switch attached to the gauge?
For when the truck is in run, while changing tunes and what not, I can turn the controller off, the switch actually runs to the controller. With the AEM the guage was the controller. Also, this doesn't apply to me very much do to the climate, if it's really humid, where there's more condensation in the exhaust before start up, I could leave it off, then start the truck allowing any moisture to burn off before the ceramic sensor heats up.

I did a lot of research on why wideband sensors fail easily. Specifically the Bosch. You never want to have the engine running while the sensor is off, and you never want to have the sensor on, while it's not running. Also if there is moisture/ condensation on the sensor before it heats up it could break it. The ceramic sensor is very small and thin.

One of the more helpful articles I read:
 
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For when the truck is in run, while changing tunes and what not, I can turn the controller off, the switch actually runs to the controller. With the AEM the guage was the controller. Also, this doesn't apply to me very much do to the climate, if it's really humid, where there's more condensation in the exhaust before start up, I could leave it off, then start the truck allowing any moisture to burn off before the ceramic sensor heats up.

I did a lot of research on why wideband sensors fail easily. Specifically the Bosch. You never want to have the engine running while the sensor is off, and you never want to have the sensor on, while it's not running. Also if there is moisture/ condensation on the sensor before it heats up it could break it. The ceramic sensor is very small and thin.

One of the more helpful articles I read:
Very nice! I had this thought while installing my AFR gauge but just resorted to pulling the inline fuse anytime I needed to have the ignition in RUN but engine off.
 
Had a dual in dual out blackwidow muffler put on the RT today. Kind of disappointed in the sound, I almost can't even tell a difference in the sound. I put the venom 250 in where the suite case was, also I left the factory resos in the rear.

I'm going to give it a few and take it back and try something else.

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Had a dual in dual out blackwidow muffler put on the RT today. Kind of disappointed in the sound, I almost can't even tell a difference in the sound. I put the venom 250 in where the suite case was, also I left the factory resos in the rear.

I'm going to give it a few and take it back and try something else.

View attachment 119115
Replace the rear resonators with something more straight through. The resonators muffle quite a bit more than the suitcase.
 
I've been contemplating Blastin' Bobs rear resonator delete pipes to get a little more low rumble. They're pretty cheap and appear easy to install, too.
Man I'm scared to do that with rear resos. I had a 2007 SRT8 that I left the factory suite case and did the blastin Bob reso delete. It droned so bad it would rattle the rear deck and interior pieces at certain rpm.

I have seen the Gibson axle back which replaces the rear resos with new resonators. We'll see 🤷‍♂️
 
I've been contemplating Blastin' Bobs rear resonator delete pipes to get a little more low rumble. They're pretty cheap and appear easy to install, too.
I had the 2.5in glass packs. They'll cut down on the raspiness at higher rpms, as opposed to just straight piped. They are pretty easy to install.
 
Man I'm scared to do that with rear resos. I had a 2007 SRT8 that I left the factory suite case and did the blastin Bob reso delete. It droned so bad it would rattle the rear deck and interior pieces at certain rpm.

I have seen the Gibson axle back which replaces the rear resos with new resonators. We'll see 🤷‍♂️
I almost went with those but went with Blasting Bob's glasspacks instead. I can't say there wasn't drone with those but didn't bother me. The videos of the Gibson seem to have a nice sound with the suitcase. Might be worth a try with your set up.
 
I tested my snow tires exploring the steep water ways of a corn field this morning. I am very satisfied with what it will do. Supposed to get 8" here tomorrow, so I will repeat the test in some deeper stuff then. View attachment 119040
View attachment 119041
Seeing your great pics, one thing immediately came to mind: Fargo but with a way cooler ride.
 
Got it all set up for the snow. Trackhawk reps with Blizzaks. Rides way softer then the with the stock run flat p zeros.
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Finally got to tow something.
But damn Uhaul gave me a dirty ass trailor. 🤬
I did that once. Cheaper than getting the big truck for an in town move.
 
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