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Time for the next mods.

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#22 ·
True "Ram Air" is where the intake is positioned to give a positive pressure to the TB opening, whether by tubes going to a highpresure area or by hood scoop forcing air into the TB. Just adding air to the engine compartment doesn't accomplish anything. In that case it's a style of hood rather than function being referenced. Yes, it may force air under the hood to a given area. If that area isn't sealed to block off any leakage and get a positive boost pressurewise from the hood, it won't make a difference, other than supplying cooler air to be available for the intake to draw from, adding an hp improvement due to the temperature difference, not to pressure.
 
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#24 ·
JWhirl06 said:
And about that MSD 6A ignition system. What do you guys think?
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Waste of money.
 
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#26 ·
That's from www.carhoods.com and I've seen posts with people who have it and, off hand, don't recall any complaints. Do a search on Dak forums for it and see what they have to say (personally I don't like the hood, but that's just my opinion.)
 
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#27 ·
As for the MSD 6A ignition system? If you're building a performance motor with higher compression or racing a lot, it might be worth it to assure firing under the added compression pressure. Other than that, it just looks pretty.
 
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#28 ·
IndyDurango said:
For $200 more, shipped, you can get the real deal at Moore with full ram air and the heat exchangers. Tell him you want the Dakota Durango website special. Mention the "same thing" I got from him.

www.fiberglass-hoods.com/dodge-dakota-durango-SRT-style-hood.shtml

Tell him to make sure the rear corners fit flat/correctly and to make sure there isn't a low spot on the drivers side about a 3rd of the way up (on the fender to hood seam area.) I'll live with it, but I'd have preferred to have it perfect and it's not quite there. See photo.

IndyDurango
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Indy Do you know if this was just a flaw with your hood, or was it with all of the hoods? I was going to get this hood some time next year.
 
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#29 ·
I think the low spot up front was on my hood only since these are all hand laid fiberglass. It was a mistake (or I could call it "character" :) ) After a $900 paint job (both sides of the hood, the grille and the bumper cover), it simply appeared. By then there was no return/exchange/assistance so basically I was screwed. I could shave it myself, re-sand and then pay for another paint job? or just live with it.

With that said, the higher rear corners tends to be an ongoing issue with these hoods. Everyone I've seen has the issue, some a bit more than others. That fiberglass is very thick in the corners for support and to prevent cracking. Perhaps too thick and could be redesigned with a steel inner sleeve layered in fiberglass just in those corners for a flatter fit. But hey, I don't work in their R&D department. :)

If I had to do it over, I was partial to a different hood that's no longer made. Also, never heard a bad word about the Cervini's but haven't seen one in person either (check out their #137 & #138 models.)

HTH,

IndyDurango
 
#30 ·
I'll jump in on this thread as well?

My hood fits really nice. I only have a slightly larger gap in the rear than the front. All I can say is PREP, PREP, and PREP again before laying the paint on. My guy laid 4 or 5 coats of sanding primer on it before painting. Also, install the hood as is from the box and put the grill on it and run it around town for a couple of weeks. look at it from all angles and take a pencil and mark the areas where the glass may be heavy or light as far as the gap goes. after that, take it to a reputable guy you really, really trust and show them the gap marks. if they do a good job as my guy did, you won't end up with the fitment problems Indy did. there may not be much you can do about the rear gap, but they should be able to make the gap less noticable.
 
#31 ·
I don't think it's as simple as that. The glass is VERY thick in the rear, the hinges are lowered to the bottom and I still have a gap with the glass literally millimeters from the fender with nowhere else to go.

IMHO, there needs to be more work done on the manufacturer's side. Since each hood is hand laid fiberglass, no two are going to be identical.

Paint prep and body prep are two different types of prep. Your paint looks good but has nothing to do with fitament. It's pot luck on the hood you get, plus who knows how much for sanding if you get a low spot like I did prior to painting. I agree looking at it a while before painting to get the opportunity to sand if that's what you need. I just didn't want to drive a lot (which I do) on the jell-coat prior to hitting the paint booth.

I love the hood for the looks and performance that it provides. The devil is just in the details.

IndyDurango
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
#35 ·
A number of Dak/Durango owners do have Cervini hoods. They're big in the Mustang world and one of the most recommended hoods for quality. I have one on my Mustang.

Kid,

The are local in Vineland NJ so you could pick it up at a lot of savings.

Indy,

Just a note on the discussion on hood to filter air boxes. Cervini when that came out with their Dak/Durango hood a number of years ago had advertised that they were to have a functional air box but they never produced it. I called them but forget why they never produced it.
 
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