Romero:
Have you purged the system of all air? For the 5.7L, the process is not too bad, but if not done correctly the cooling system can't do it's job The air pockets will move to the top, and if said air is by the sender, your readings are inaccurate.

Don

 

I believe I had done a good bleeding when filling, but do intend to remove & replace that hose and bleed again.

 

Try this method:
Elevate the front of the D a good 10-12 inches.. Remove the radiator cap, fire it up, heater(s) on high. Monitor engine temp gauge as you watch the coolant level drop, and continue to top it up. Run the engine rpms up to 1-5-2k rpms several times during this process, to help move air up and out. Eventually, the temp gauge should settle in a needle width or 2 below the halfway mark, and the heater(s) should be running you out of there. Both upper and lower hoses should be hot as well. If one or the other aren't, there is air in the system.
This process can take a good 25-40 minutes to complete.

Don

 

Will do.

Thank you Don.
____


Hi Don,
I just want to thank you for your input. I tried your method and it worked like a charm. Once the thermostat opened, it blew out a huge pocket of air. The hose is no longer swelling and the hoses are hot again. My heater is also kicking like a mule now. You're help is very much appreciated. Thank you again.

 

In addition to what Don suggests about elevating the front end (I like running my 5.7 '06 Daytona up on ramp stands), check to verify that the new t-stat is installed with the jiggle vent valve up in the 12 o'clock position. Before I warm up the engine, on my '06, there is a 1/4" threaded plug on the housing that I remove and install a threaded barbed fitting to which I attach about a 6 ft. hose, and carefully route away from moving parts out the front to a clean empty bucket. I stuff a bolt into the bucket end of the hose until the engine warms and the t-stat opens, all the while keeping my burp funnel filled with coolant mix. Once warm, wearing gloves, I carefully use a pliers (hose and coolant will be HOT!) and pull the bolt to allow trapped air and coolant to drain into bucket while keeping the funnel topped off. After a few minutes of revving and looking for air bubbles in the bucket, I carefully pinch off the hose, block it with the bolt and shut off the engine. Once cooled, I remove the hose and barbed fitting, replacing it with the 1/4" threaded plug. Check your coolant level the next morning and top off as needed.

 

Get a radiator funnel to make life easier on this job. It can be a huge PITA to bleed the cooling system on this model.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lisle/lisle-translucent-yellow-plastic-funnel/lis0/24680/

 

Yep. That's the funnel kit to use! Have had this one for years, and works great.

 

Hey all. Just want to give an update on my process. So I have run 4 procedures in bleeding the system. With the radiator cap off all seems well after no longer seeing any air bubbles passing through the bleeder funnel, except the temperature never exceeds 180°-190°. Leading me to think there may be air trapped at the top of the block by the sensor. During the bleed process the upper hose gets hot, the lower hose gets hot, the heater is blowing real hot as well. All indicating coolant is flowing properly. However, when I put the cap on and go for a drive, the heater gets luke warm again, the upper hose swells (but is really hot) and the lower hose is hard & cold to the touch again. This is my second rad cap, so I don't believe it's a faulty cap (I could be wrong & just really unlucky) Any ideas?

 

Very weird, but you could have a bad thermostat or you put it in upside down. I don't know if that would allow it to seem normal as you were bleeding it though.

 

Either something is allowing air back in, or you have not quite gotten it all out. I carefully squeeze the lower, then upper hoses. This helps move the air there up and out.

Don

 

air will not cause a swollen upper hose (imho) but a defective thermostat would. Pump is trying to pump but the T-stat is stopping it. Take the t-stat out and run the car ans see if the problem goes away. If so, put a mopar stat in and try again,

 

I can tell you from experience with replacing multiple 180 and 190 t-stats on my Hemi Daytona that parts quality, especially in a simple rudimentary part like a t-stat, is absolute CRAP these days. I have had stats last anywhere from a couple days, weeks, moths to a few years of late. The country of origin was also all over the map - from US, Mexico, Israel, China, etc. All GARBAGE! It also drove me nuts, looking at everything from my cooling fans, sensors, radiator caps, water pumps, hoses, etc. Out of the 2 temps, I did find that for whatever reason, the 190 stats are better quality and seem to last longer than the 180s. Didn't matter whether it was a Mopar performance part, or a high-priced name brand aftermarket one with the 180s.

 

That makes no sense that a Mopar T-Stat gave you issues. I would even hope that Stant T-Stats are still good. I have not replaced one in 25 years so the 1st thing I would buy would have been a Stant. But is that a no no today?

 

Air can rise to the top through more than one avenue. If the bottom of the T stat is sitting in an air pocket, it's not going to open. If your chosen T stat has a jiggle valve, make sure it's at 12 o clock.

Don

 

I avoid MasterPro from Oreilly and Murray brand stats at all costs. I have never had trouble with OEM or Gates brand stats, though.

 

I appreciate everyone's input. Doesn't make sense if the T-stat isn't opening then the upper hose shouldn't be getting hot, as that is what's feeding the hose.

Here's a bit of a break down of what I am experiencing.

[With Rad Cap On]
-Upper Hose Hot
-Lower Hose Cold
-Both Hoses High Pressure (Upper Hose Swelling)
-Temp Guage NEVER Exceeds 180° Mark (Even With Rad Cap Off)
-Heater Luke Warm
-Radiator Cold To The Touch

[Rad Cap Off During Bleed Procedure]
-Upper Hose Hot
-Lower Hose Hot
-Both Hoses Low Pressure
-Temp Guage NEVER Exceeds 180° Mark
-Heater Hot as Hell
-Radiator Hot To The Touch
-No Longer Seeing Bubbles At The Funnel (No Matter How Many Times or How Hard I Rev The Engine)

Fresh Engine Overhaul (about 2K miles). New Radiator, 2 New Rad Caps, New T-stat, New Water Pump, New Hoses.

 

I intend to pull the temp sensor this weekend and attempt to bleed air from that port. The symptoms almost seem like a restriction at the radiator and at that sensor. I will update everyone with my findings.

 

Before you do that, elevate it, allow it to come up to temp with the radiator cap off. With gloves on, carefully squeeze the lower then upper radiator hoses several times. Have both heaters on high. Top off if the level drops. Rev it up a bit as before. I still think there is air in there.

Don

 

Thanks Don. I think that as well.
Yes I always elevate the front of the vehicle & run both heaters when bleeding. Can't really squeeze the lower hose with the spring inside it. Have squeezed the upper hose many times during my endeavors.

 

If I recall correctly, there is a section of the lower hose, that you can compress a bit. Do that carefully though.
Good luck!

Don

 

Another thing to try is while it is cold and running, hold your hand over the radiator with the cap removed and squeeze the upper. Any additional coolant will go in the overflow and you can feel if there are any bubbles coming out.

 

So I have bled more air out of the system again. Seems to be the same amount (1/2 gal.) every time I bleed it. Upper hose is still collapsing when cold (rad cap not regulating pressure properly). I think it's a faulty radiator with this being the third cap (Gates). Removed & checked the overflow bottle, no restrictions there. If a new radiator doesn't fix the issue, I'm just gonna sell this POS and get another vehicle.
Thanks to all who have tried to help me. This is an awesome forum!

 

Why aren't you letting an experienced mechanic figure this out for you? Selling it won't fix it. Don't spend money on a radiator until a pro looks at it first.

 

hey could you send me the link to this method, same thing that happened to romero is happening to my 2014 citadel. i’d appreciate it.

 

Read post #4 in this thread. I used a bleeding kit from Harbor Freight.

 

With all the effort put into a complete overhaul of an engine, I never reuse old hoses. 2004 is 20 years old... Hoses are cheap compared to a redo because an old hose blows and causes an overheat.