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IndyDurango said:
There are no detents in the contact areas as I expected.

IndyDurango
WOW, wouldn't have called that one!?!? :? :?

I guess the contacts must be bi-metalic (like the ones in the turn signal replay) so the heat of the current passing thru them causes them to "flex" enough to provide the tactile "click" you feel at each position?? Whodathunk such a simple thing as a multi-position switch would be so high-tech!!

BTW, ~13 years & 287K miles and I haven't yet had to replace my own resistor (knock on wood!)
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Okay, about 2 1/2 terrible hours later, the resistor has been found and replaced. It's VERY difficult to do based solely on its position and working conditions required to access it. Unlike most projects, it's harder to put in than to take out, however both are equally a PITA.

You'll see from the photos below that you can't see the resistor. You can feel it once you know where to "look." Removal requires the use if a mirror or x-ray vision. Since there's kryptonite near my garage, I had to settle for a mirror and working backwards on top of all the poor accessibility issues.

Whoever designed the resistor's location earns a solid F- grade. Unfrakingbelievable actually.
 

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
The old resistor had no breaks in the coils and, other than being weathered from 227,000+ miles and 11+ years of use, one couldn't tell much of a difference from the new one? except the new one was mounted to some bracket that wasn't needed, not present on the original, and not able to even be used due to where it fits and other studs there sticking out in the way preventing such a bracket from being used, ever.
 

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Okay, done with the photos, etc.

Problem still exists.

Recap is as follows:

Problem - Fan speed selection switch on the dash doesn't click in all four positions. It goes from one side to the other and the fan goes from low to mid-high. No mid low speed, no max speed.

- Replaced switch. Once removed, it clicks in all positions as it should. Replacement clicked just fine prior to install however, once installed, it acts the same as the previous switch does, no clicks and not all speeds represented.

- Replaced blower resistor. Old one looked fine. There are no diodes, no capacitors, no circuit boards, etc., just a plug going to an old school "factory blower resistor" consisting of different sized and lengths of coiled wires as pictured above.

Results: No change. Problem conditions still exist.

At this point, your ideas and suggestions are greatly appreciated. PLEASE HELP!

IndyDurango
 
Is there something about the mounting or the wire connections that's distorting the switch unit when it's installed?

I wouldn't expect the clickiness to change when it gets put into the dash.

?tom
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
The only thing that it gets plugged into is the harness for power/connectivity.

No binding, no cramming, no physical force needed to connect. Just clicks when out, not when plugged in? along with the missing fan levels.

IndyD
 
Is the panel flexing or twisting in any way when you tighten the screws??
Put it in the dash with no screws. Do you feel clicks?? Does it work??
If so, the torque of tightening the screws is tweaking the panel a bit so the contacts are pushed away. Considering how many times that dash has been apart, it could happen.
Steve
DOC Pres
 
+1 with Steve. Check for clicks every step of the way during removal and/or install and figure out when they come and go. Given the description that the contacts themselves seem to form the detent, I'm pretty sure that when the clicks stop is when your fan speeds vanish.
 
Switch

I'd check the leads on that connector for power in, 12v, and for the quality of the ground. Also check to see if the female plug connections are seated properly in the plastic connector and that there are no loose connections not making contact, broken blades, loose blades etc.

You may even consider a temporary bypass to rule out the connector.

The answer is out there?

V
 
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