[James1549]

Don, this time try to remove the engine block drain plug. If you drain the block and radiator, both gallons will go in, then top off with water.

 

[Don Fox]

James and all: I tried to get that freeze plug to budge, but no dice. Instead, I found an NPT plug that threads into the back of where the lower radiator hose connects to the block.

That allowed me to get about 3/4 gallon out of the system to be replaced by full strength stuff. Now my rating is at 20 below, but I might do it one more time to be sure I have enough to get the job done.

On the plus side, for around $300 DIY I did the axles, coolant, and shocks.

:clap: :mrgreen:

 

[FSTDANGO3]

Don Snap a photo of this plug you removed if possible
I think your 20 below concentration should be fine
Steve
DOC Pres

 

[James1549]

Don, I wouldn't allow -20? to be sufficient in OHIO. You may get lucky with the winter but who wants to be concerned if we get into lower than normal temperatures this coming winter. We live about 40 miles apart and I know the temperatures around here. -30? protection would comfortable with me.

A piece of mind is worth more than a gallon of antifreeze. Some years ago, I blew a hose on my car. Fixed her up, and I was short on extra antifreeze. Topped it off with water and checked the protection a few days later. -15? seemed good enough for me. WRONG. That winter we had -24?. My car wouldn't start until I took the water pump belt off and my radiator cap was froze on. Drove it about 5 minutes to a friends garage to thaw out. Luckily no damage. NEVER AGAIN will that happen to me!

-30? or BUST!

James

 

[FSTDANGO3]

Wow Never Knew it got that cold there -30 That's Friggin cold
Steve
DOC Pres

 

[Don Fox]

fstdango3:
I'll get a pic of that plug and post it in the next day or two.

James:
I agree that -20 is borderline for our snowbelt state. I'll be more comfortable when I see -30 on the hydrometer. After all, the same lower rating for cold also means more boilover protection, and we all know it does get HOT here in Ohio now and then.

Don

 

[Don Fox]

Finally got some cooler weather here in Ohio to get the mixture/ratings where they should be.

removed the threaded plug( still have to get pic and post) which allows 3/4 to 1 gallon to drain. Then went back in with 100 proof AF and the needle on my Prestone hydrometer now pegs at -45. That ought to hold me for a winter or three.

Burping process went fine. Left bleed screw out and filler cap off, then started and idled while filling up. when T stat opened up, kept topping off and watching bubbles work their way out of bleed port. Once bubbles were pretty much done (10-15 min), buttoned up and went for a spin.

No drama to report. Just a nice day outside to do it.

** One quick note. I found out the hard way that I didn't open up the bleed screw or filler cap when I drained it the first time which helped control how fast the coolant comes out. With the top opened up it comes out in quite a hurry.

Don

 

[Unnamed]

I tried and tried to get the block's drain plugs loose before to no avail. They just weren't budging.

Were they very difficult for you?

 

[qwassy111]

I coudn't get my block drain plugs to budge either. Probably due to the limited tools that I have but they're a pain to get to. I ended up having so much trouble with the change that I took the 2-Gall of Red Mopar fluid to a local mech to have done. Too much of a PITA for me.

You can probably find the posts in the archives showing the location of these and other helpful info.

 

[greendurango]

Reviving a old thread!

I'm planning on doing a flush on my D tomorrow and was wondering. I plan on installing the Prestone flush-n-fill changing out the upper, lower hoses and heater hoses and just hope I get all the extra water out! is there a way besides take out those block drain plugs? last time I couldn't get them to budge! :lol: I plan on connecting the water hose to one of the fittings of the cut and turn it on low. I got 2 gallons of distilled water and 2 gals of Prestone full strength antifreeze so what's the best way to ensure I don't leave a bunch of water in there and end up with less than a 50/50 mixture? thanks, Jim.

 

[MWeed]

They have sockets that'll fit the pipe plugs to remove them. By the way, those plugs are pipe thread so they're a tapered thread and very tight. The only other choice would be to knock out and replace a freeze plug with a new brass one.

 

[greendurango]

do you happen to know what size the plugs are? If I were to take one out, would I get all the water out or would I have to remove both of them? also, would I have to put any kind of sealer back on them once I get them out? is it threaded like a oil drain plug or is it right handed thread? thanks.

 

[MWeed]

Technically, it's a self sealing thread. It's a pipe thread, just like any piece of pipe has, and those are tapered threads (i.e. they get tighter the further they're tightened.) I'd use a pipe sealant just to be safe, but it really shouldn't be necessary. They come in standard sizes like 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 NPT for National Pipe Thread. I'd guess them to be 1/2 or 3/4. Take the upper hose off to make sure there's an air break for the water to come out completely.

Realistically, if you drain the radiator and flush the heater core/engine block as has been discussed and then close everything back up and pour in 100 % coolant, you should get a 50-50 mix with what's left in the system. It's not rocket science! It's been done this way for longer than anyone here has been alive with great success. As suggested, leave the recovery bottle empty until the job is done. That way you can adjust the final mix to the desired result.

 

[Neil]

Don't worry about getting all the water out unless your tap water is very hard. Filling the radiator with straight antifreeze with the amount of water that's in the block winds up being just about right at a 50/50 mix.

 

[FSTDANGO3]

Agree with Neil. I've never worried about getting it all out of there.
Steve
DOC Pres

 

[greendurango]

So basically just flush it out with the flush-n-fill using the garden hose, then use straight 100% antifreeze to make it about a 50/50 mix? I live in the city so the water should be ok, just has a bunch of chlorine in it.

UPDATE
I looked under the D for the block drains and could only find one on my 99, on the passenger side of the engine next to one of those freeze plugs and kinda towards the front. I couldn't find a drain on the drivers side of the engine so could it be just one engine block drain? if so, would opening that one be adequate enough to get all the water out of the engine? thanks.

 

[MWeed]

There should be a drain plug on the driver's side of the block to the rear of the support bracket just above the oil pan rail. It may be under/behind the bracket. If you flush your system to where there's only clean water, you should be fine without having to pull these drains. If you must, you must.

 

[Siggi Gunda]

On my 2002 5.9 the plug on the drivers side is behind the starter and very hard to get to if you don't pull the starter out. I skipped it. The antifreeze does also work as anti-rust on the system so it's very important to flush it.

 

[Dodge Hemikid]

Im going to be flushing my coolant also. Not to sure what I should fill up with. last year we had days -50 with the wind chill. My engine is pretty good for a 16 yr truck dont want to risk anything and money really isn't a problem. So I wouldn't mind preparing strictly for the winter then flushing everything back out to a normal 50/50 when things start warming back up.. I really try to avoid mixing different coolant also what was originally used from the factory?