Haha! I forgot about that!

 

Terminals are just some I found on eBay.

I've been having loads of troubles with this motor. There is very little support out there for them. Nothing local I found out. So I've been chasing my tail around on issues and getting a ton of different responses.

Cam is good, cam is no good, cam is a gas guzzler, cam is to tall, cam is a high range, cam is a low to mid range. Responses like that. I'll call Comp Cams Monday and get the scoop on them for performance.

I was having problems with it bogging down on take off. Plus when I try to pass someone. At takeoff, I could floor it and it would bog down for the first 5 to 10 feet, then take off like a rocket, laying you back in the seat through 70 MPH.

I changed sensor after sensor out to a new one, nothing helped. In the meantime I was chasing my tail over it not shifting properly. It would shift to 2nd at about 10 feet, then fall through 3rd, 4th and immediately into lock up.

If I slowed down to turn a corner, say at 15, 10 or 5 MPH, it would not downshift 3-2, so I would be taking off in 3rd. It would only downshift to 1st if I came to a complete stop.

So I started to adjust TV Cable to no avail. Didn't make a difference where I put it. So I purchased a Jet Accu-Speed to make my speedo read properly since I have 4.56 gears and 35" tires.

Hooking it up killed the speedo, after chasing my tail on that issue last Saturday and Sunday, I moved on to the bogging down issue.

Constant emails back and forth to Sean at HemiFever didn't get me no where.

So Monday, I took it to G-Force and was simply going to drop $550 to let them dyno and tune it on the spot. But NO, they only do 2005 up Hemis.

They sent me to Dirty Diesel to see if he could help, he made a dozen phone calls and only came up with suggesting I go see Hennessy Sports. He said they would be the ones to do it as they are the best at what they do.

So I went home with plans to contact them. Once home I called Jet Performance and talked to a tech about the Accu-Speed. He asked how I had the purple and light green wired up. I told him and he said they were backwards. Apparently their instruction sheet is wrong.

Wired it back up and I had a speedo through it. Drove around and stopped to adjust it a few times and now my speedo is dead on to GPS speed.

Tuesday at my second job, the mechanic and I messed with the TV Cable some more. I looked at pics online and saw that the bracket that holds the cable down by the transmission was bent. I bent it back to match the pic, adjust the cable and it started shifting better. I guess it got bent while stabbing it all back in.

So now I started to see a light at the end of the tunnel. I just had to figure out the bogging down issue. I was told to set my Fuel Sync to +4 to help solve the problem. I had it set to no avail.

I put the stock tune back on it and it got better, but still bogged down. The HemiFever custom tune really made it bog. If I feathered the pedal, then put it to the floor, it would scream and take off like a rocket.

So Wednesday, I called the guy with the Dyno Machine. I told him I want to get back on it this weekend to get new numbers for Sean to tweak my tune. I explained the bogging down issue and that I had to resolve that first though.

Right off the bat he said it was my fuel pressure regulator. He explained it all to me about all these little blocks with values in them and they had to be right so the PCM could tell the injectors how much fuel to push at take off.

Then after take off, the motors vacuum would take over at higher RPM's. He lost me in all that talk though. lol

So he said he could test my fuel pressure to see. Well while at the FD Thursday, I went to O'Reilly's and borrowed a fuel pressure regulator tester. I hooked it up and it showed a bad pressure regulator.

So i was going to replace that part of the pump, but thought better of it and replaced the whole pump. O'Reilly's had it for $225 and I found it on Amazon for $93 with overnight shipping.

I got it in Friday and installed it at work Saturday. Problem solved! I stomp on it and it roars off the line. Though with 35" tires, there is no spinning them.......yet.

So before I post up pics and video, I have one question.

During all this, a Chrysler mechanic told me to remove the blue top Ford 5.0 injectors as they are the reason it eats gas and bogs down. I went back to the stock ones, but am now wondering if the 5.0 injectors will be better now that it is running proper again?

New Pump


Removed dirty tank




Rusty Skidplate


Nice clean tank, inside and out


Old VS New


Cleaned up, removed and treated rust and painted




Same with underneath are I couldn't normally get to due to the tank




The tank didn't have much crud in it, but it is cleaner now. The basket on the old fuel pump was really bad.


New one in




Tank in first, then skidplate


Truck fired right up and ran a lot better.

Here is the video of the test. When I first turned on the key, it only went to 30 PSI. So after I started the camera, the second time it jump to about 45 PSI since the system was almost primed. But you can see it fall off some.

So I started it up, you can see the needle fluttering real bad. Then when I rev it, you can see it drop to 30 PSI and below a couple times.

I would recommend this test for anyone who thinks they do not have the omph anymore taking off the line. No matter how little it is. This is a free and easy test compared to buying sensors, who everyone attributes this symptom to.

Especially if you still have the old fuel pump in place. You can see the filter on mine. When I pinched it, all kinds of crud came out.

 

It's my understanding that the computer will learn the fuel flow rate for higher rated injectors and just open them for a shorter duration to keep the air/fuel ratio right. If those injectors are the 4 hole ones they should give you better atomization too.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll undo the negative on the battery, them back on, then run around for a few days before going back to Dyno.