[midnite]

I was lucky enough to get this polished stainless steel piece from bwdakrt. I already cut a hole in it for the airflow, but now need to know how to mount it? He had a steel hood with 4 sheet metal screws going into it and I'm not sure this will work with my fiberglass hood? My main concern is poking a hole "through" the hood.

I'm going for either a permanent install or something I can put in place for the shows and then take off. It weighs at least 20lbs and the "X"s indicate the screw locations.

Any suggestions?

 

[FSTDANGO3]

Nut inserts could be installed at those locations, but they'll require a lot of care when installing so you don't drill thru.
You could also carefully epoxy a few nuts to the hood and use very short bolts threaded into them.
Or "commercial grade" Velcro placed in some more spots will work.
Good work getting that quite expensive piece!
Steve
DOC Pres

 

[midnite]

Thanks for the info!
Velcro was an idea I had, but with the piece weighing in at about 20lbs I'm a bit skeptical. Plus, the bottom area of the Moore hood isn't streamlined, it's got a bit of a ridge in it. I'll see what I can do.

Where would I acquire commercial grade Velcro?

 

[FSTDANGO3]

Commercial grade is a very hard plastic.
3m Velcro or Home Depot stronger Velcro.

 

[midnite]

Thanks a bunch! I'll probably go that route since I'm trying to get to a show on Saturday. I assume this would be more of a "show only" mod?

 

[FSTDANGO3]

Don't drive with it!
You'll need more than just 4 pieces as well. Have you fitted it to your hood yet?
Steve

 

[midnite]

I have placed it up there with the help of my dad. I was wary of screws into the fiberglass, so I'll probably not go the permanent route after all.

 

[MWeed]

You could go the opposite way. Fiberglass some bolts into the hood so they stick out like studs and then use aircraft locknuts to bolt the piece to the hood.

 

[midnite]

I've thought about maybe making it a permanent mod and making some 'spikes' or something on the outside of the hood, but that may be more trouble than it's worth?

 

[skitzo.d]

The whole thing looks like WAY too much trouble to install. you should just send it to me and I'll take all of that trouble off your hands. :thumbsup:

I think the hood is all double walled in those areas, I'd have to look at mine to see for sure, so at least inserts would be good to use. I wouldn't drive with it installed either way. Actually, 20 lbs is too heavy to have on that fiberglass hood, it'd beat up the glass at the hinges. Mine is showing stress cracks and flexing in that area now and I don't have a big piece of metal hanging on the underside of the hood. If you add this, remove the hinge rods from the sides of the hinges and put a prop rod in the center for shows.

 

[MWeed]

Find a way to lessen the spring pressure from the hings as it's set for the heavy metal hood and stresses the glass too much IIRC.

 

[FSTDANGO3]

You can heat the springs to a point where they lose some tension.
Dwayne's way of bypassing springs is the best and most economical way.
Steve
DOC Pres

 

[skitzo.d]

It's not necessarily the spring tension, but the cantilevered hood weight at the hinges. When it's up, the springs could be lighter, but taking the weight off of the hinge area is best. I'll be doing a mod to my hinges to eliminate the stress.

 

[MWeed]

I agree with the hanging weight. I think all fiberglass hoods should be propped at both front corners for long life. They're still way better than the old "fold at the hinge" GM steel hoods from the 70's on up. Those would all collapse at the default fold line for the crumple zone just from standard use!

 

[midnite]

The whole thing looks like WAY too much trouble to install. you should just send it to me and I'll take all of that trouble off your hands. :thumbsup:

I think the hood is all double walled in those areas, I'd have to look at mine to see for sure, so at least inserts would be good to use. I wouldn't drive with it installed either way. Actually, 20 lbs is too heavy to have on that fiberglass hood, it'd beat up the glass at the hinges. Mine is showing stress cracks and flexing in that area now and I don't have a big piece of metal hanging on the underside of the hood. If you add this, remove the hinge rods from the sides of the hinges and put a prop rod in the center for shows.

LOL That may be an option. lol Good idea on the "prop." Perhaps I'll cut it down to size and make it like a puzzle piece sorta thing? Guess that'll be a summer project as the show tomorrow is iffy due to rain and time constraints not allowing me to finish this project.

You can heat the springs to a point where they lose some tension.
Dwaynes way of bypassing springs is the best and most economical way.
Steve
DOC Pres

I may attempt this. Heat gun or?? This is to reduce stress on the fiberglass to keep rigidity?

**Sorry I didn't reply to everyone, for some reason I can only "quote" certain people?