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NitricWave

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2014 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Wondering if anyone on here has ever put Lucas ATF fix in there 8 speed. I have a terrible 2-3 shift that feels like the clutches aren't engaging and possibly slipping. Anyone has this issue?
 
I wouldn't. The regular fluid is perfectly fine. You might need a transmission re-flash. Someone will post a TSB if one exists for it.
 
In general, these "mechanic in a can" oil additive concoctions are primarily designed to relieve the customer of their money and cover up real problems. I would not use them in a vehicle I liked or planned to keep.

That said, I once had a 1974 Mercury (Ford) Capri with 4-speed manual transmission which became very noisy after a clutch replacement. After driving it like that for for a couple hundred miles and listening to the line of BS that the guy who replaced the clutch was giving me, I discovered that there was no gear oil in the transmission. With the problem identified, I filled the transmission with a 50/50 mix of 75W-90 gear oil and STP Oil Treatment. That resolved the noisy transmission problem. I traded in the Capri on a Toyota Celica a two months later.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I wouldn't. The regular fluid is perfectly fine. You might need a transmission re-flash. Someone will post a TSB if one exists for it.
All tsb's performed checked as of last month, also had the fluid changed with oe fluid and filter, which fixed the issue for around 6000 miles only for it to come back, any ideas.
 
NW:
How many miles are on your D? Being a '14, how old is the battery? If not new or fairly, so, have it load tested and replace if it comes back less than 100%.

Don
 
Wondering if anyone on here has ever put Lucas ATF fix in there 8 speed. I have a terrible 2-3 shift that feels like the clutches aren't engaging and possibly slipping. Anyone has this issue?
First - don't put ANYTHING in the gearbox except OE/equivalent oil.

Second - Sounds like a re-learn procedure will help. AlfaOBD can do it, but so can a few other OBD interface tools.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
First - don't put ANYTHING in the gearbox except OE/equivalent oil.

Second - Sounds like a re-learn procedure will help. AlfaOBD can do it, but so can a few other OBD interface tools.
I've had 2 relearns done, one at the dealer when the fluid was changed and one at a shop when it started acting up again, no change.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
NW:
How many miles are on your D? Being a '14, how old is the battery? If not new or fairly, so, have it load tested and replace if it comes back less than 100%.

Don
190k, Battery is a year old, oe mopar agm battery that costs a foot and a leg. Constantly reads 14-15v when cruising on the high way so i way say the load is decent.
 
NW:
While I would tend to agree with you on the battery, new(er) batteries can and do go bad. If it were mine, I'd have it tested just to rule it out. If it comes back flaky, it should be under warranty, and you get a new battery gratis. If it passes muster, you have ruled it out.

At 190K you may also be working your way towards a new trans. Not what we want to hear, but crap happens.

Don
 
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I concur, stay away from any tranny additives. Seek a second opinion from a shop that deals and familiar with new Dodge transmissions.

At 190k Your at the tail end of tranny life expectancy. My 05’ tranny went out at 150k. Had a complete HD rebuilt and it was working perfectly at 297K when traded in on the new DDRT last year.

Probably more than what you’re looking for but these guys appear to know 8HP70 very well. Maybe a quick call to them for insight.

 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
I concur, stay away from any tranny additives. Seek a second opinion from a shop that deals and familiar with new Dodge transmissions.

At 190k Your at the tail end of tranny life expectancy. My 05’ tranny went out at 150k. Had a complete HD rebuilt and it was working perfectly at 297K when traded in on the new DDRT last year.

Probably more than what you’re looking for but these guys appear to know 8HP70 very well. Maybe a quick call to them for insight.

any chance that the dealer didn't fill it up all the way when they changed the fluid?
 
The lack of a dipstick is not an excuse for improperly filling the transmission. The service procedures are pretty clear about how to check the level including assuring that the transmission is at the proper temperature.
 
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The fill procedure takes time, would not be surprised if a tech took a shortcut on it.
Not saying that's what happened, because the original problem returned after 6K miles.
Are there any transmission codes stored? IIRC the ZF8 should store a code if it detects a clutch slipping..
 
I have a 2016 R/T that is just about to turn 100,000 miles. We have owned the vehicle since new and was my wife's car up until a month ago when I took it after she got a new car. We had the issue a few years ago, mostly notable on downshifts and would lung at times. Took it to a dealer and the did a relearn on the transmission and that seemed to fix it. It is starting to do it again although not as notable if I keep it in Sport mode. Guess I need to take it back for another relearn and possibly a transmission flush. This vehicle has given us no problems except this.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
The fill procedure takes time, would not be surprised if a tech took a shortcut on it.
Not saying that's what happened, because the original problem returned after 6K miles.
Are there any transmission codes stored? IIRC the ZF8 should store a code if it detects a clutch slipping..
I have no CELs can a regulat odb scanner read tranny codes? Or do you need a fancy one for that.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
NW:
While I would tend to agree with you on the battery, new(er) batteries can and do go bad. If it were mine, I'd have it tested just to rule it out. If it comes back flaky, it should be under warranty, and you get a new battery gratis. If it passes muster, you have ruled it out.

At 190K you may also be working your way towards a new trans. Not what we want to hear, but crap happens.

Don
Okay thanks for putting this in the back of my mind just had it tested and its dead apparently, how does this effect the trans?
 
The average vehicle today has many onboard computers. Said computers need a strong, stable reference voltage to be able to run as they should. Return to the place of purchase if you have warranty, and have it load tested. Replace if it comes back less than 100%. When you reinstall the new (or fully charged and tested one), before you hook it up, depress the brake pedal 30 seconds to clear out any corrupt data, then hook it up, fire it up. Don't touch it for 5 minutes, just let it idle. If all seems good, go for a drive and see what you have.

Don
 
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