FYI: I added this detail to slide 27 of my Canbus Power Point Document.

 

One other point ... These versions also repurpose the ECO mode button to act as the SRT button instead. If you don't want this, I can make a change to remove the function as well. Just let me know.

In the end, I'd like to have a combination of buttons the user can push to enable/disable this ECO repurpose, but I haven't worked on it yet. Something like holding down the volume's MUTE button, and then pressing the ECO button while MUTE is being held, etc ...

 

One other point ... These versions also repurpose the ECO mode button to act as the SRT button instead. If you don't want this, I can make a change to remove the function as well. Just let me know.

In the end, I'd like to have a combination of buttons the user can push to enable/disable this ECO repurpose, but I haven't worked on it yet. Something like holding down the volume's MUTE button, and then pressing the ECO button while MUTE is being held, etc ...

Ok, yes I like the idea of repurposing the ECO button for the SRT button, great idea. I know the SRT button cover won't fit on this due to size and angle. But maybe could do a decal overlay.

 

I got mine almost completed and done, everything is done except I’m still waiting on the Can Bus. Once it gets here I’ll just pop it in. It’s been over 2 weeks and he just shipped it this past Thursday.

 

Looks great, nice job!

You guys with the fancy 3D printed enclosures LOL ... they look awesome! Should order a few of the dual canbus modules and offer them up for sale

 

I am using one of these on the Passenger dash 12v. I added a connector and fuse then ran the wire behind the ICS to the area near the CanBus Hub. Working great for now.

 

Oh ok, thanks. Yeah I heard about these but didn’t know where they went. Right now I got it powered from the foot well lights as constant power. But I want it powered as ACC though. Only power I found under the driver dash was RUN wire.

 

What size JST connectors are you using, and are you using a crimper for the pins?

I’m using 2.54 size and with a crimper, they’re pretty solid.

 

I’m using 2.54mm, which is says. Yes I’m using a crimper. Seems to be very delicate. Yesterday when I was running the new ACC power I moved my teensy box and the 5 canbus wires going into the 5 pin JST connector where coming out and 2 actually broke off the crimped pin. So I re did them all with heat shrink on each connector hoping that will help and protect the wires.

 

Hmm, sounds to me like your crimping technique may need some refinement maybe?

The length of the stripped end is pretty important. It needs to be the right length where the wire end buts up against the female pin, and the insulation is still under the large tangs at the end of the pin. Then aligning the crimped exactly, so it only crimps the wire tangs and the insulation tangs but not the female channel and not the insulated wire.

Also, if you crimp twice, it will create a situation where the wire is damaged and will easily break off when articulated.

So the strip length is critical, and getting the crimp perfect the 1st time is also critical.

Being 49 years old, I use a bright light and some magnifier glasses when I do these, so I can get the alignment perfect. When done this way, I haven’t had any break off.

 

Yeah, I think at first that was my issue, crimping it on the wrong part and causing it to crimp to much. I re did it yesterday so hoping it fixed it. Also, the connection was on top of the board/box, so I’m editing the 3D printed box to have the plug in the front aligned with the power connection so there’s no bending in the wire.
Thank you for tips.

 

@stoopalini here she is, I redesigned the case so now all the wires are coming out of the front, instead of power input in the front and canbus 5 wires coming out the top. Also, yesterday when I recrimped them all I finally did it correct by crimping them on the correct gauge of my crimper. Got the case tucked in the corner like yours safe and sound 😁.

Thank you for the help and for the detailed instructions on how to set this up from start to finish. Next on the list is the Whipple Supercharger.

 

Sweet, looks Fantastic! I really need to get a 3D printer, I have case envy now lol

Have you been following my Whipple thread?

 

Sweet, looks Fantastic! I really need to get a 3D printer, I have case envy now lol

Have you been following my Whipple thread?

When you get a 3D printer, get a Bambu Labs X1 Carbon. Literally plug and play. It’s the Tesla to 3D printers, lol. And you can multicolor print also.

I have not been following it. I’m about ready to start.

 

Just a PSA for those using the same buck converter I am using.

These DO NOT have reverse polarity protection, and if connected in reverse, it will NOT pop the vehicle fuse on the 12v circuit. My guess is because the input stage on the buck receives the reverse 12v just fine and doesn't place a high enough load on the vehicle's system to pop the fuse .... so the buck converter proceeds to melts down .. and I do mean MELT down!

I was moving my power source from the constant 12v of the ICS over to the Acc 12v at the power port, and the 2 pin JST connectors I bought (with leads attached) apparently were wired reverse of what I already had leading to the buck converter and I didn't catch it.

So when I powered things up, the ICS did not power up and I wasn't sure why. I went to inspect the Teensy box and there was heavy, thick, black smoke pouring out of it! I quickly pulled the power. If I hadn't, I am sure it would have erupted into flames.

It's easy enough to replace the buck converter with my module design, but i also replaced the plastic enclosure since it melted quite badly and smells heavy of smoke.

This did give me a chance to test out my little bypass adapter I made up though, so the ICS would function (other than drive mode buttons that is) while I replaced the buck and outfitted a new enclosure.

I actually didn't need to connect the ground wire for the bypass to function though. Just having the H-to-H and L-to-L pins connected together was enough for it to function.

So this is a handy little plug to have in the glovebox just in case something goes wrong, you can easily get the ICS functions back up and running in a pinch.

 

Oh yikes, glad you was there when it started and not away or asleep.

Man that’s my fear, but I installed a 5 amp fuse between my ACC power and my buck converter just for this reason. I got my ACC power off the passenger side cigarette plug next to the glove box. I used this adapter HERE cause I didn’t want to splice or re-pin into the factory wire. You just drop the glovebox and the glovebox housing to access the plug.

 

Yeah, that's where I tapped in as well. I had a 2 pin JST connector there already, using it to power my AFE air-fuel gauge for the supercharger. I just made a Y cable to split it out ... one side to the AFR guage wire nad the other side to the Teensy power wire. The issue I had was the wire leading to the Teensy box had the pins reversed in the connector when compared to these new leads I bought to make the Y.

I don't think the 5A fuse would have been any help here though, as if it would, the fuse in the OEM fuse box would have popped since that circuit already has a fuse on it.

These buck converters don't create a short in the supply side when reverse polarity is hooked up. It just cooks the buck itself. Whatever burned must be something between the input stage and the 5v converter, as it did not fry the Teensy so I'm assuming the 5v output was never energized.

Just be extra careful to never apply reverse polarity voltage to one of these. Many buck converters have reverse polarity protection built in, and I mistakenly assumed this one did too. But obviously it doesn't

 

Here’s a close up view of what fried. Definitely the input stage.

 

So on another note ... the reason I was switching the power from constant to ACC was due to a couple of things ...

1. Using the APPS 5v signal to trigger the buck converter's EN power, to control power on/off, was too late in the network processing and I would miss the initialization message of the ICS. This means it would not power on in the same state as it was when it powered off.
2. When I disconnected the APPS 5v from the EN port, and just left the Teensy on 24x7 ... it would get hot, especially when the Durango was parked in the sun. A couple of weeks ago when the wife was running errands, it got hot enough to start malfunctioning. She had no control over the ICS. After it cooled down and I power cycled it, it started working normally again.

So then this past Thursday, I drove the Durango to work and it sat in the parking lot for about 4 hours or so. It was a hot day. During the drive home, the ICS wouldn't function. It would power up, but was flipping between night and day lighting modes, and the button LEDs were doing weird things on their own. It would not respond to any input like this either. No volume control, no HVAC control, etc ...

I figured it was as before, and just over heated. So I drove the 40 or so minutes home with the AC on, and when I got home, pulled the power on the Teensy and reseated it to power cycle. This did not fix the issue.

So then I decided I should move the power over to ACC anyway, and maybe that would be enough time to reset things. Well, that's when it melted down.

So now that I have the new buck in, and a new case outfitted, the issue is still present. I think the dual canbus module may have failed? Serial monitor shows the Teensy booting up just fine, but the communication over the bus isn't right.

So I reflashed the Teensy for good measure, and still the same issue.

So I then grabbed the old prototype Teensy development board, flashed it with my latest code, and plugged it in ... works like a champ.

All that to say I think the heat ended up killing the dual canbus module. It wasn't the buck converter melting down as the symptoms are the exact same as they were before that happened. Being on 24x7, in the hot sun, and my case probably not having adequate ventilation, all probably played a factor.

So I am going to order another Teensy and another dual canbus module (and wait the 3-4 weeks for it )

So ... @Beast502 ... would you mind sharing the print file for the case you have where the connectors are both on the same side? I may want to play around with comparing my case with what you guys are using. My brother has a 3D printer and I can probably get him to print one out for me.

 

Hey @stoopalini , sorry for the late reply, I didn’t even notice you replied. I’ll send the file link over today for you.

 

I just found this new dual canbus hat for Teensy 4.0 which has an integrated 12v to 5v converter built in.

Automotive Teensy 4.0 Dual CANbus Hat by Electroneering on Tindie

Dual CAN Hat for a Teensy 4.0 with Built-In 12V to 5V Regulator

www.tindie.com

This would allow an even smaller footprint as you wouldn't need an external buck converter. The Tindie page also shows a 3D print design for a case, although he doesn't provide a link to download the print file.

Based on the silk screen, it looks like this was developed for Kaizen Speed, most likely for their smart relay system.

I ordered 2 of them, and since they ship from the USA, I'll bet they arrive before the ones coming from Czech do, which just shipped yesterday.

 

@stoopalini oh yeah, I like this design way better then having to have a buck convertor in line. This way it's all in one and don't have to worry about the buck convertor going out. I'm gonna order this as well, might order 2 of them to have a spare on hand. Thanks for finding this.

 

So I heard back from the creator after asking him about the 3D printed case in the pictures of his listing, and he pointed me to the drop down on the Tindie store where you can order the 3D printed case for $5 extra or ... you can select the option for the full kit: Teensy 4.0, + the dual can hat + the case + the termination resistors for $49.

Pretty convenient package deal for everything you need including a case.

 

Yeah I noticed that, I just opted for the Can Hat, enclosure and wires only.

 

HI All - Awesome amount of detail here. I've read through this thread about 4 times.

I've been trying to get the Drive Modes and Race Pages to show up, but am not getting them to work.

I have a 2024 Durango R/T Premium w/Tow & Go. My current UConnect version is newer then the one posted here. Wondering if that may be part of my issue.

I can get the SRT splash screen and the SRT logo over the car to appear, but no pages. Any thoughts?

 

Can you post a pic of your UConnect version?

 

Build Number: FCA-MY23.T27.39-PRD

 

Unfortunately a lot of us switched to T27.46 which seems to be a Ram specific version, but does work well. T27.39 seems to be the latest Durango version, however I haven’t looked to see what the 2024 SRT and HC Durangos have. I’d imagine they also have T27.39, which would have drive modes and race options.

 

Ok - where can find that version? I cannot seem to find it on the forums.

EDIT: Found it here: Uconnect T25.51 Update

 

I wouldn’t switch to it just yet, it’s probably not necessary, and you have a Durango specific version.

 

Did you bypass the telematics unit, or turn off the Connected Services option in AlfaOBD?

If not, the pages will not show up.

 

Did you bypass the telematics unit, or turn off the Connected Services option in AlfaOBD?

If not, the pages will not show up.

I am using AlfaOBD and cannot find the option for disabling connected services. I am using the Android app. Any guidance on how to find the option would be greatly appreciated.

 

Right, there is a procedure to expose it. Do you have my power point document?

 

Yes, I have read through your power point. In the Android App I do not see a way to get to 'Advanced Mode'. I'm sure I'm missing something.

 

Gotcha. Sorry, I don’t have any experience with the Android version.

I would think the android version would still allow you to manually select the BCM version though. Maybe it’s called something else in the Android app than it is in the windows app?

Maybe someone local to you with Alfa on PC can help? Where are you located?

Or.. might be worth the license for a laptop if you have one

 

Well I bit the bullet and bought the PC version of Alfa. I was able to set the connected services to 'NO'. Still no luck.

I attached a copy of my configuration. Anything jump out as wrong?