We've reached a pretty major milestone in this project yesterday, as I finally had enough conclusions from analyzing the data we've collected through various logs, to attempt to write the code for the microprocessor.

I ended up switching from the Arduino Due to a Teensy 4.0 processor. I did this because the Teensy has 3 canbus controllers on board and I initially thought I was going to have to not only intercept the IHS canbus for the Integrated Center Stack (ICS), but also interface to the C-bus. Turns out the connection to the C-bus isn't needed, but I'll keep the Teensy since it's a much faster processor than the Arduino; and I may want to add other functionality in the future (like RGB LEDs under the hood scoops which change color based on drive mode selection, and change intensity based on RPM or Boost, etc ...). Essenitally, the speed of this Teensy would allow me to add whatever I want and never risk lag on the canbus communications because it's so fast (600mhz Cortex-M7 processor!).

Here is a link to an Excel with details on the key CAN IDs which I ended up using to implement this initial code.

Stoop's CAN ID Excel File

... here's how the Teensy is logically integrated into the canbus (at point D):

And here's the wiring for it:

So I have the Teensy acting as "Man-in-the-Middle" between the ICS TnG panel and the IHS Canbus hub, and I'm translating messages on the IHS bus into what I think the ICS needs for LED control. Then it's also listening for button presses on the ICS center stack, and translating them into the message which the radio would have sent if the same function was selected on the touch screen.

And ... it's working beautifully! The only thing which I haven't solved yet is the Sport mode button LED and the EVIC splash for Sport mode. I thought I had it figured out, as the data seems to point to CAN ID 305, Byte 2, Bit 2 as the flag for the Sport LED. But there must be something I am missing. More investigation needed on this piece .... but everything else is now functioning

Here's a video demonstrating current state of this project:

 

Hey, so I am moving to installing the teensy and I am only waiting on my connectors from digikey and the dual canbus adapter from tindie. So i have a question on your diagram on the OEM Canbus, so if I read it right I will be removing C5(Orange/White wire) and plugging it into the last port on the extra canbus (ordered from digikey) and then Can 0 from the teensy 4.0/canbus adapter back to the original C5 port on the OEM Canbus?

 

More progress on fine tuning this setup.

I was annoyed I had to tap on the screen 4-5 times in order to activate Custom, and since I'll never really need quick access to Snow, I put some code in to allow repurposing the Snow button as the SRT button instead.

I may add more code to allow the user to switch this repurpose on and off with some button combination .. maybe holding MUTE down for 2 seconds, then pressing the Snow button ... or something similar.

Anyway ... I'm really enjoying the result of this so far

 

You can pop off the SRT button on your SRT center stack and put it on your TNG center stack

 

I tried to pop them off a while ago and stopped because I thought I was going to break the panel. Do they just pop off with force, or are there any clips or release mechanism of some sort?

I'm thinking the ECO button is probably the better one to repurpose, since we never use that physical button and I believe Whipple will disable ECO in the supercharger tune anyway. I know they disable MDS for certain, and am thinking also ECO.

 

They come off with a lot of force, a small pick or screwdriver helps. I broke the first SRT panel I took apart, but after getting it all apart I figured it out.

From everything I can gather ECO mode on the 2021+ RTs only deactivates or changes the characteristics of MDS. I’m keeping MDS enabled in my tune even after the supercharger because some of the reason I bought a TnG over a 392 was the fuel mileage, even though the 392 also has MDS, the fuel mileage doesn’t compare to the TnG.
On the 2021+ 392 models ECO mode changes the transmission and possibly how sensitive MDS is, but I haven’t looked at a 392 ECM file to confirm.
On the HC models ECO mode only changes the transmission. Again, I could be wrong on some of this, this is just what I’ve gathered.
I noticed on the TnG with Drive Modes pages enabled the transmission does not start in 2nd gear like in the 392 and HC models when in ECO mode, even though it says it does in the description. I know this is only because the Drive Modes pages are for the 392 and HC, not the TnG which has different trans tuning.

 

Hey, I’ve been following along and haven’t commented cause I wanted to see the outcome of this and have never dealt with messing with a pcm/bcm too much besides messing with forscan on my company cars. I want to first thank yah for yahs time on this, all of you all are amazing and are very talented. I’m young so I’m still learning. My question is, I do have a 2021 Dodge Durango R/T TNG as well and I noticed you got yours to work by only enabling SRT to ON and something else. Could I just enable SRT with my Tazer to get the full SRT drive modes on the screen? Or would I have to follow what Stoopalini did by using AlphaOBD and system flash/upgrade firmware? Also, did you have to use a canbus hub with a Teensy as well? Thank you for your time.

 

Hmm, I've never had ECO start out in 2nd. Snow will do this, but I don't recall ECO ever doing it.

Where are you seeing this in the documentation? Here's what I'm finding in the SRT Drive Mode supplemental:

From digging through the canbus messaging, I've surmised that ECO is actually treated as a sub-configuration of Auto drive mode. Like Suspension, or Steering, etc .. is for Custom. It's not really it's own drive mode.

For the button repurpose, what I'm going to do is write code with variables to control the ECO button or Snow button being repurposed as SRT, and provide some user input through ICS buttons to select which one. If ECO is selected for repurpose, I'll set the ECO button LED to light up when Custom drive mode is selected. So you can leave the ECO button in place and have the LED function as a Custom drive mode selection (maybe with a vinyl overlay to relabel it) or you can swap out the button for the SRT button which doesn't have an opening for the LED to shine through; but the LED would still be lighting up behind it when Custom mode is selected (you just won't see it)

I think I can set it up where the user could hold a button down on the ICS (maybe mute?) and then press the button they want to repurpose. So hold mute and press Snow to repurpose it, or hold mute and press ECO to repurpose that one. Do the same to undo the repurpose, etc ...

 

Here's the only mention of starting out in 2nd gear I can find ...

 

So the hazard button pops out pretty easily, held on by two tabs at the top.

It's probably better to get that out of the way 1st. Before I realized that, I had already removed the left side though.

I used a small iPhone repair flat head screwdriver. Sliding it in at the base of the button, then twisting slightly and prying with light pressure. This causes the top pivot on that side of the button to pop out.

Then it's a matter of preventing that side from popping back in while you do the same to the other side.

The buttons themselves are two pieces: A base and a cover. They come apart with three slide tabs.

The SRT button base does not have the LED light pipe and the cover doesn't have the cutout for a light pipe ... but it does have the molding of where the cutout would be

Here's the launch button parts ... you can see the light pipe on the base:

and the cutout in the cover:

So my current thought is to get a drill bit, or a honing bit, or a small router bit, that is the correct size for the light pipe cutout, and run it through from the inside, to create the light pipe cutout in the SRT button cover.

Then removed the ECO button from the TnG panel, separate the button pieces, and put the modified SRT button cover on.

So I would have an OEM SRT button along with an LED.

Then in the code, I'll repurpose the ECO button for the SRT button functionality, and configure the LED to light when Custom drive mode is active.

 

Ahhhh, so I just realized the buttons are sized/shaped differently based on their position on the panel ...

So maybe a vinyl overlay is the best option here, unless I want to put the SRT button where the Tow button is located. And I don't think I want to do that.

 

2nd gear launch in eco mode is in one of the 392/HC supplemental owners manuals, I’ll try to find it later.

Also, for anyone that might find it useful, you can enable Off Road Pages with Alfa. It works as intended, however it’s for a Grand Cherokee so that’s what’s displayed in the Pitch and Roll section. Idk if I’ll keep it on there or not.

 

The one thing that's a bit useful in the Off Road pages is the ability to see when AWD vs RWD is active. Other than that, I didn't find any real value in it either.

 

.

 

I know it's been a while since any update has been given here, so thought I would provide one.

The setup has been working flawlessly for weeks, and has been great! Here's a 4 minute video demonstrating the current state of the solution:

I've still been unable to get the "Sport" mode splash and icon to work in the cluster, and I'm starting to think it may be a cluster firmware issue and not a canbus messaging issue. It's not a big deal, but an annoyance and really the final thing to work out for drive modes to be 100% as they are in the SRT, working along side the TnG panel drive buttons.

Launch control seems to be dependent on the cluster cooperating as well, and since it appears the RT and SRT clusters have different firmware on them, I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to get Launch working with the R/T cluster. I've thought about switching to an SRT or Hellcat cluster, but I really don't like the analog speedomoter replacing the analog tachometer. It's weird to me the performance version has a speedo instead of a tach, but oh well ...

After I got pretty frustrated with the whole "Sport" splash thing, I decided to take a break from it and started focusing on the hardware package. The setup thus far has been the Teensy controller with a large 3-can shield sitting on it, tucked behind the driver's side dash end cap, with the wires shoved in screw terminals.

This has been fine from a development perspective, but I don't want to leave something like that for years to come; so I started working on a more durable and compact design.

@F8HEMI found this small dual-can shield for the Teensy, so we picked this up to try out:

Since we don't need to interface with the C-bus, we really only need two can controllers anyway, and this little thing is absolutely perfect! It sites right on top, so it doesn't take any additional realestate except a bit of height.

Doing it this way meant we also had to then devise a power solution to reduce the vehicle's 12v - 14.4v down to 5v. In the current setup, the large 3-can shield does this for us ... so I picked up these little buck converters, which do the job nicely. There are smaller ones out there, but I chose these because they're rated to 5 amps, which is extreme overkill for a simple dual-can Teensy setup; but I wanted to toy around with adding an LED strip behind the center hood scoop. So 5A gives me the power overhead I need to do that.

Then I grabbed an old LED controller I had laying around and repurposed the enclosure for my new design. I was able to fit everything neatly inside, and incorporate JST connectors for everything (power, canbus and an LED strip) while also leaving the USB port of the Teensy exposed.

So instead of this:

I'll have this (USB thumb drive provided as a size reference):

Here's a look inside ....

I'm much more comfortable with this package sitting behind the dash for years to come rather than the exposed electronics of the development setup.

I also started playing around with different LED strip modes. Like remaining solid but changing colors with drive mode selection, or changing intensity with RPM, or going to a "Knight Rider" scan when stopped at idle then increasing scanning speed as RPMs increase and going solid around 2k RPM, etc, etc ...

Here's a 30 second video showing the box and an LED strip connected:

Having access to the canbus communications definitely makes a lot of things possible here

I also now have an unlocked PCM installed and a red key paired to the vehicle, so I tried to get "Black Key" reduced power mode going, but it doesn't seem to work on an R/T. I believe it's due to the black key power reduction mode on a Hellcat reducing power by limiting the supercharger's electronic bypass valve. Since the Whipple I am installing uses a vacuum bypass, it still won't work after that's complete. So I started looking at the Smooth Boost controller, which would give me an electronic bypass valve.

Since I have access to the canbus messaging, I could connect some of the Smooth Boost control wires to my Teensy controller and do my own black key reduced power mode by having the Teensy detect a black key in use over the canbus, and then activate the Smooth Boost's "no boost allowed" mode.

The Blue, Gray and Tan wires are optional and activate when they receive a GROUND signal. These can be used in conjunction with momentary and on/off switches or other control systems NOTE: NEVER put voltage of any kind to these wire's as internal damage WILL occur!!!

⦁ BLUE wire:
This is the BOOST CUT Wire - This wire defaults the actuator to open the bypass valve. This will cut all capable boost from the engine. Signal can be generated by components such as a failsafe air/fuel guage, water meth low level, aftermarket ECU, ect.

⦁ Gray wire:
Calibration Mode- Activate this wire with a ground signal when adjusting the Actuator to the valve closed/BOOST position.

⦁ Tan Wire
This is the Scramble Mode - Activation will give full boost mode as if the boost knob was turned up all the way up or the bypass plug is installed.

**Boost control through a standalone ecu's auxiliary PWM output can be achieved with our SB-DCA converter which
transforms a (PWM - ) signal to a 0-5v analog signal. It replaces the standard open loop boost control knob

I also completed phase 1 of my Whipple install last weekend, which was to get all the peripherals behind the bumper installed. All I have left to do is swap the intake for the supercharger itself, and then connect everything I installed last weekend up to it ... and of course, load the Whipple calibrations in. I'll start another thread on this though, when I have time to write it up and describe my experience with that. I took a bunch of pics, especially as I ran into things where I needed to fabricate a solution.

 

I know it's been a while since any update has been given here, so thought I would provide one.

The setup has been working flawlessly for weeks, and has been great! Here's a 4 minute video demonstrating the current state of the solution:

I've still been unable to get the "Sport" mode splash and icon to work in the cluster, and I'm starting to think it may be a cluster firmware issue and not a canbus messaging issue. It's not a big deal, but an annoyance and really the final thing to work out for drive modes to be 100% as they are in the SRT, working along side the TnG panel drive buttons.

Launch control seems to be dependent on the cluster cooperating as well, and since it appears the RT and SRT clusters have different firmware on them, I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to get Launch working with the R/T cluster. I've thought about switching to an SRT or Hellcat cluster, but I really don't like the analog speedomoter replacing the analog tachometer. It's weird to me the performance version has a speedo instead of a tach, but oh well ...

After I got pretty frustrated with the whole "Sport" splash thing, I decided to take a break from it and started focusing on the hardware package. The setup thus far has been the Teensy controller with a large 3-can shield sitting on it, tucked behind the driver's side dash end cap, with the wires shoved in screw terminals.

View attachment 132199

This has been fine from a development perspective, but I don't want to leave something like that for years to come; so I started working on a more durable and compact design.

@F8HEMI found this small dual-can shield for the Teensy, so we picked this up to try out:

View attachment 132200

Since we don't need to interface with the C-bus, we really only need two can controllers anyway, and this little thing is absolutely perfect! It sites right on top, so it doesn't take any additional realestate except a bit of height.

Doing it this way meant we also had to then devise a power solution to reduce the vehicle's 12v - 14.4v down to 5v. In the current setup, the large 3-can shield does this for us ... so I picked up these little buck converters, which do the job nicely. There are smaller ones out there, but I chose these because they're rated to 5 amps, which is extreme overkill for a simple dual-can Teensy setup; but I wanted to toy around with adding an LED strip behind the center hood scoop. So 5A gives me the power overhead I need to do that.

View attachment 132201


Then I grabbed an old LED controller I had laying around and repurposed the enclosure for my new design. I was able to fit everything neatly inside, and incorporate JST connectors for everything (power, canbus and an LED strip) while also leaving the USB port of the Teensy exposed.

So instead of this:

View attachment 132204


I'll have this (USB thumb drive provided as a size reference):

View attachment 132205


Here's a look inside ....

View attachment 132207


I'm much more comfortable with this package sitting behind the dash for years to come rather than the exposed electronics of the development setup.

I also started playing around with different LED strip modes. Like remaining solid but changing colors with drive mode selection, or changing intensity with RPM, or going to a "Knight Rider" scan when stopped at idle then increasing scanning speed as RPMs increase and going solid around 2k RPM, etc, etc ...

Here's a 30 second video showing the box and an LED strip connected:

Having access to the canbus communications definitely makes a lot of things possible here

I also now have an unlocked PCM installed and a red key paired to the vehicle, so I tried to get "Black Key" reduced power mode going, but it doesn't seem to work on an R/T. I believe it's due to the black key power reduction mode on a Hellcat reducing power by limiting the supercharger's electronic bypass valve. Since the Whipple I am installing uses a vacuum bypass, it still won't work after that's complete. So I started looking at the Smooth Boost controller, which would give me an electronic bypass valve.

Since I have access to the canbus messaging, I could connect some of the Smooth Boost control wires to my Teensy controller and do my own black key reduced power mode by having the Teensy detect a black key in use over the canbus, and then activate the Smooth Boost's "no boost allowed" mode.



I also completed phase 1 of my Whipple install last weekend, which was to get all the peripherals behind the bumper installed. All I have left to do is swap the intake for the supercharger itself, and then connect everything I installed last weekend up to it ... and of course, load the Whipple calibrations in. I'll start another thread on this though, when I have time to write it up and describe my experience with that. I took a bunch of pics, especially as I ran into things where I needed to fabricate a solution.

Updating firmware question: Do I need to extract all the firmware files to the usb stick or only certain file needed?

 

My2020+ But Alfa will auto detect even if you accidentally select the wrong one.

 

Ok, I’ve updated all settings per your list in the PCM/BCM with alphaOBD and updated firmware with the firmware you included and only thing I’m getting is the SRT splash screen on startup and the SRT on the vehicle button. I still have my normal performance page but not the drive mode screen. I have also disabled the telematics via alpha as well. What else am I missing? Does it take hours or minutes for the drive mode screen to appear?

 

It can take some time for things to load. You can try a reset to speed it up?

But things should start to load over time. Do you have the driver and passenger temperature numbers back in the top corners yet, or is it still the red and blue icons?

 

They’re both up there when turn ac and heat on. But I noticed I lost the helmets on the people on the climate page and the dodge slashes on the temp selection slider bars. They use to be there. Is that due to the newer update?

 

Yes. Veg config 1-special package

 

Gotcha. I like theme 2 as it uses the italic font.

 

Hey, so I am moving to installing the tensy and I am only waiting on my connectors from digikey and the double bus shield from tindie. So i have a question on your diagram on the OEM Canbus, so if I read it right I will be removing C5(Orange/White wire) and plugging it into the last pin on the extra canbus (ordered from digikey) and then Can 0 from the teensy 4.0/canbus shield back to the original C5 pin on the OEM Canbus?

 

You got it.

CAN 0 (FYI: it'll actually be called CAN 1 on the hardware) will have 2 wires plugged into the OEM canbus hub. It actually doesn't matter which port. It can be any open port on the IHS hub.

CAN 1 (it'll be labeled as CAN 2 on the hardware) uses 3 wires to plug into the 3 pin port on the spare hub you're adding.

The ICS connector you removed from the OEM C5 port can plug into any of the available 2 pin connectors of the spare hub you're adding.

Here's the wiring detail:

If you're not using the Triple Teensy can shield, and are going with the more compact dual can module from Tindie instead, then you don't need to do anything with the termination jumpers. That dual can module from Tindie will have the 120 ohm termination resistors enabled by default and there's nothing you need to do to adjust them.

If you already downloaded the .ino code file previously from my Google Drive, you may want to re-download it again as I had to make a couple of changes to it to support the dual can module from Tindie.

 

You got it.

View attachment 132586

CAN 0 (FYI: it'll actually be called CAN 1 on the hardware) will have 2 wires plugged into the OEM canbus hub. It actually doesn't matter which port. It can be any open port on the IHS hub.

CAN 1 (it'll be labeled as CAN 2 on the hardware) uses 3 wires to plug into the 3 pin port on the spare hub you're adding.

The ICS connector you removed from the OEM C5 port can plug into any of the available 2 pin connectors of the spare hub you're adding.

Here's the wiring detail:

View attachment 132587

If you're not using the Triple Teensy can shield, and are going with the more compact dual can module from Tindie instead, then you don't need to do anything with the termination jumpers. That dual can module from Tindie will have the 120 ohm termination resistors enabled by default and there's nothing you need to do to adjust them.

If you already downloaded the .ino code file previously from my Google Drive, you may want to re-download it again as I had to make a couple of changes to it to support the dual can module from Tindie.

Ok, thank you sir. Yes, I am going with the more compact dual can module. Again, thank you so much for your time on this and thank you for the help.

 

No problem, glad I can help and also glad to see someone else picking this up to give it a try

In the end, it's not all that complicated with the process we put together ... so long as you have half decent soldering skills that is.

If you have a 3D printer, @F8HEMI has been working on an enclosure design to house the Teensy with dual can module along with the buck converter, all in a nice housing with JST connectors.

I ended up repurposing an enclosure from a spare LED control kit I had laying around, but his 3D enclosure design looks pretty nice!

 

No problem, glad I can help and also glad to see someone else picking this up to give it a try

In the end, it's not all that complicated with the process we put together ... so long as you have half decent soldering skills that is.

If you have a 3D printer, @F8HEMI has been working on an enclosure design to house the Teensy with dual can module along with the buck converter, all in a nice housing with JST connectors.

I ended up repurposing an enclosure from a spare LED control kit I had laying around, but his 3D enclosure design looks pretty nice!

Yes, it was fun messing with AlphaOBD, like I said before that I have only messed with Forscan on my company ford cars and I really enjoy this stuff. I need to actually learn more of the bcm/pcm programming and the ins and outs of them.

Yes, I can solder, I even have a SMD rework solder station. One of my hobbies are building led controllers and soldering on pcb to make DIY electronics.

I do have several 3d printers and would love to get that stl file as I was going to make one in Tinkercad or fusion, but if @F8HEMI has one made already I'd love to get the stl file. Could you or him send it to me please.

 

Still needs some slight modifying but I will share the .STL along with a complete BOM for those wanting to recreate as soon as I'm finished. You will need to build your Teensy and dualCAN add-on to be a similar size to below (this was my testing setup).

In the end I used a right angle 5pin JST on the dual CAN add-on and moved the buck convertor output JST connectors from what is pictured above to the backside of the buck convertor PCB. That allowed me to create the small case below.

I definitely ended up going overboard with the vent holes 😅. Here is a look at the inside from a prototype.

 

Very nice build. Let me know when you can share it. Also, where did you all tap into for the input hot and ground?

 

where did you all tap into for the input hot and ground?

plan to test the 5v reference signals there to see if they shunt to ground when powered down.

I just tested and both pins 1 and 6 shunt to ground when the vehicle's ignition is off. This should work to control the state of the buck converter by connecting one of these pins to the EN port on the buck converter.

 

So I just tapped into Pins 1 and 6 to test them with the buck's EN port. With the vehicle off, both initially cause the buck to turn off when connected, but when using pin 1, it turns back on after a couple of seconds. When using pin 6, it stays off.

So there's something different about the pins where pin 1 seems to have some trickling charge on it? Not sure, but pin 6 works perfectly.

I tested several ignition cycles and it works great. Immediate power on with ignition on, and after ignition off it stays on until the interior power timeout expires. So it’s turning off at the exact same time the ICS illumination goes out.

I also checked the voltage on pin 6 when it's connected to the buck converter's EN port and vehicle power on. It was 4.94vdc. I checked pin 1 and it was also exactly 4.94vdc.

So connecting the buck converter's EN port to pin 6 isn't putting any load on it, or at least not enough of a load to impact the voltage reading.

I'll wire it up later on for a drive test just to be sure, but I'm feeling very confident about this setup.

 

FYI @Beast502 ... I've made a change to the code to address the issue of a drive mode button pres not taking. This would happen very infrequently, but it would happen some times. Where you would press an ICS TnG drive mode button, and the BCM would ignore it due to message priority. I've since change the approach on this to where the Teensy will continue to send the drive mode request until the BCM responds with the requested drive mode being active.

So button presses should now be 100%.

The link is the same for downloading the updated code, but here is is for ease of reference: Stoops Teensy Code

Also note I am currently working on making it where the HVAC controls don't default back to being in a "non-Auto" state everytime the Teensy is power cycled. This wasn't an issue when I had the Teensy powered up 24x7, but now that I have it shutting down with the vehicle ... when it powers back up, the HVAC is coming on not in AUTO mode. I'm pretty sure I know why this is happening and am working on it today. Hopefully I have a new version soon which will address this.

 

FYI @Beast502 ... I've made a change to the code to address the issue of a drive mode button pres not taking. This would happen very infrequently, but it would happen some times. Where you would press an ICS TnG drive mode button, and the BCM would ignore it due to message priority. I've since change the approach on this to where the Teensy will continue to send the drive mode request until the BCM responds with the requested drive mode being active.

So button presses should now be 100%.

The link is the same for downloading the updated code, but here is is for ease of reference: Stoops Teensy Code

Also note I am currently working on making it where the HVAC controls don't default back to being in a "non-Auto" state everytime the Teensy is power cycled. This wasn't an issue when I had the Teensy powered up 24x7, but now that I have it shutting down with the vehicle ... when it powers back up, the HVAC is coming on not in AUTO mode. I'm pretty sure I know why this is happening and am working on it today. Hopefully I have a new version soon which will address this.

Ok, thank you for the update. I am still waiting on my can bus from Tendie. How long did yours take?

 

Ok. Ty for this. So pin 6 is gonna go the EN solder point on the buck converter? Then I still use the positive and neg terminals tapped in from the ICS correct?

 

Ya, that's what I did. One thing to be aware of is that pin 6 of the APPS doesn't power up until the key reaches RUN. But when the key reaches ACC, the vehicle's canbus sends out the ICS initialization message which is used for the ICS to recall the settings which were in use when the vehicle was shut down.

What this means in practice is the ICS boots up with the HVAC in manual mode, not AUTO. I added a line of code to switch the HVAC controls to AUTO when the Teensy powers up, so I'm happy with it. But if you want the HVAC controls to remember what they were set at when powered down, then you need to power the Teensy from something which get's energized in ACC key position.

@F8HEMI is using the dashboard 12v power port for his, and it gets energized with AC; so his does remember the last settings when powered up.

I personally like the Teensy power being on the same circuit as the ICS though, and actually like the HVAC defaulting to AUTO when the vehicle is started. So I'm going to leave mine this way.

If you don't want the HVAC defaulting to AUTO when the vehicle is started, let me know and I can give you a code version which doesn't have this happening.