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Best Oil brand for Hemi engines

  • Shell Helix Ultra SN 5W-20

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  • Castrol Edge 5W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic

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  • Royal Purple SAE 5W-20 Synthetic Oil

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Best Oil Brands certified by American Petroleum Institute for 5.7L HEMI engines

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36K views 50 replies 17 participants last post by  cerd  
#1 ·
As our owner's manual says:
"We recommend you use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Mopar®, Pennzoil, Shell Helix or equivalent. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for the correct SAE grade"

Now, I'm planning an oil change (DIY) and I would like to use the best oil for 5.7L HEMI engines out there. I was looking for Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil, but I've read that Amsoil could not have the API certification, but reading on their site, for 5W-20, they have this:
"5W-20 (ALM): API SP (Resource Conserving), SN PLUS, SN…; GM dexos1Gen 2 (supersedes 6094M); ACEA A1/B1; Ford WSS-M2C945-B1, WSS-M2C945-A, WSS-M2C930-A; Chrysler MS-6395; ILSAC GF-6A, GF-5, GF-4 "

So, I guess this is good to go. Have you ever used Amsoil?

Also, I have that annoying ticking noise in my passenger side, coming through the wheel. Sometimes it does the noise, sometimes not. And the ticking noise is not going away just after the car is warmed, it is still there, and I can hear it driving the car, more when I accelerate. Really annoying, and when I get at home, I parked and turned it off. I opened the hood to hear from where exactly it was coming, and I turned it on, and guess what? There was no noise!

I read and watched some videos about this, and people are talking about that common "Hemi issue" because of bad lubrication in the lifter rollers at idle or low RPMs. Sometimes, they recommend using a better quality oil to reduce and improve lubrication. This is weird because my car has 800 miles on it (it's been doing the noise since 300 miles or less) and it has the factory oil.


Here you can hear the noise from my car (starting up):

And here there is no noise on my car (starting up):
 
#2 ·
I’ve been using Castrol Edge 0w20 Full Synthetic since my first oil change at 3k miles. At 65k miles I switched to the “high mileage” version of the same. For the filter I use the Fram XG10060 filter and change the oil and filter religiously every 4,000 miles. Now I’m at 85k and it still runs like the day I got it.


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#3 ·
Can I vote more than once? Used Castrol Edge for years in turbo cars. Now mostly stick to Penzoil Ultra Platinum. I'd use Amsoil if it wasn't so expensive. Hard to justify the expense when the performance difference is so small compared to other good synthetics. I do prefer Amsoil transmission fluids though....I'll pay the premium when it's only every few years and the performance is that good!

Why no Redline on the best oil list?
 
#13 ·
But it may not work with MDS if you want that feature since MDS requires 5W20.
 
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#14 ·
Here:
The '14 Charger R/T receives it's annual oil change at the dealer, using Pennzoil Ultra 5w20, and the oem 899 filter.

For my trusty but rusty '04 Durango 5.7L, I use the oem 090 filter, and whatever good full synthetic 5w30 , ie M1, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Castrol, I can muster.

For reasons I can't put my finger on, I have never cared for Valvoline oil. Their ATF+4, is another matter.

Don
 
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#17 ·
MDS is for gas mileage and it is supposed to disengage when the motor is under load such as accelerating, assuming you haven't turned it off. I don't know how it would reduce engine power when disengaged, but I'm not going to watch some random video to see what this guy thinks.
 
#20 ·
Having played with shutting MDS on and off with a tuner on a non-VVT Hemi..I would say with it off around town the engine does feel a bit more responsive. But I also noticed a hit to FE of 3 mpg ave in mixed driving.
I bet with our VVT Hemi you won't notice a difference in performance.
The switch from 4 to 8 cyl happens in milliseconds.
 
#24 ·
The results speak for themselves Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 5W-20. This oil had lower than normal wear running oil samples when I hit 100K . This oil was used for 95% of the life of the vehicle. Sold it privately at 136K miles and the purchaser was thrilled to see these reports. Oil filters were from K&N

View attachment 120140
Wow! That’s clean!


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#26 ·
i use PP. haven't done a change in the durango yet but this is i think the 4th 5.7 and i've not had any issues with using that oil. i've also used pennzoil in my old mazdaspeed3 (turbo 2.3L) after having started it with mobile1, then switching when i couldn't find it for a regular oil change at the local store. been using pennzoil in everything ever since (except my motorcycle). in every new vehicle i use full synthetic, although a couple used vehicles i opted for their "high mileage" line.

i also use their SRT brand for my 2500 with the 6.4, although i have to get that from amazon since i never find it in the stores

on a side note, i always go to the dealer for the oil filters. i think because it's the only paper trail that i don't have to worry about keeping for myself. i figure if anyone wants to know the oil change history i can go to the dealer and find every time i bought a filter for said vehicle. but of the dozens of cars i had over the years the oil change history has never come up during a trade or sale
 
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#28 ·
To the 60% of you using the Pennzoil 5W20, I hope you have better luck using it in your 5.7 than I did. In my '06 Hemi Daytona, I tried it, and even the Ultra Platinum, and found both very noisy at cold start-up, and noisier at idle. Same issue when I tried the 5W20 even in our 2.4L Jeep. Switched to Mobil 1 EP, and much quieter in both.

In our new '21 DD 3.6, 1st oil change I used Mobil 1 EP 0W20, and very happy with cold start-ups all winter. I really wanted to like the Pennzoil, but after trying in multiple engines a couple of times, it just makes sense to me that any brand of oil that produces more noise will cause more wear.
 
#29 ·
To the 60% of you using the Pennzoil 5W20, I hope you have better luck using it in your 5.7 than I did. In my '06 Hemi Daytona, I tried it, and even the Ultra Platinum, and found both very noisy at cold start-up, and noisier at idle. Same issue when I tried the 5W20 even in our 2.4L Jeep. Switched to Mobil 1 EP, and much quieter in both.

In our new '21 DD 3.6, 1st oil change I used Mobil 1 EP 0W20, and very happy with cold start-ups all winter. I really wanted to like the Pennzoil, but after trying in multiple engines a couple of times, it just makes sense to me that any brand of oil that produces more noise will cause more wear.
Yep... Someone else has experienced the noise using Pennzoil?
 
#31 ·
Oh boy! An oil thread! 🍿😁 This one is pretty civil, I must say. Things usually get pretty heated!

I'm not going to sway anyone one way or the other with what I use. I'll just say I've been working on engines of all kinds for decades, and I've used them all. Clean oil is good oil, regardless of the brand. That said, there are wild variations in additive packages from one brand to the next. I ran Pennzoil for decades in my old V8's for hundreds of thousands of miles without an issue. I still run it in my '86 Grand Marquis that has leaked out of the rear main seal for the past 19 years. No point in wasting expensive Amsoil on a leaker. She's got 286k miles on her with zero signs of slowing down yet! You could argue that this is built in a different, much better quality time, and I'd say you're 100% right - this car is still on the original transmission, rear end, and in-tank electric fuel pump (first year of multi-port FI).

I've known people running cheap Walmart Tech 2000 (or whatever it;s called now) oil for over a decade, and they're still running.

But if you're towing, and when you're not, you've got your foot to the carpet every single time you leave from a stop, then Amsoil really can't be beat, especially for 10k mile plus oil changes. Oil analysis is a must, though. Not because the oil can't handle it, but because some engines just make trash over the course of running and might contribute to higher than normal wear.
 
#35 ·
Here ya go. I paid $600 for her. Drove it 2.5 years with CONSTANT abuse! I even welded up a hitch and pulled mine and my buddies ATVs on a snowmobile trailer for a while. She never left me stranded! Took it to NYC and drove right past the Twin Towers, been to the mountains of NH, and VT, down the Cape, and everywhere in between. The transmission never had 2nd gear - it would skip right over to 3rd, HAHAHA! When it finally lost reverse, then the rest of the forward gears except 1st, I drove it to the junkyard at 5k RPM. In those days they'd pay you $100 if you drove it there. That was a good chunk of money back then! They were betting on the fact that most people were sane, and would drive a street legal & inspected vehicle there. I was cut from a different mold, lol. Guy says to me, "You hit everything but the lottery with this thing!! I'll never get my money back on this!" He didn't want to pay me! I said hey, a deal is a deal! Your ad said if I drove it here! He paid me, but he was grumbling the entire time. 😁

The front end was so mangled, I could take my hands completely off the wheel on sharp, sweeping right-hand turns on the highway, and she'd go right around it, LOL! My favorite thing to do with a carload of buddies was take my hands off the wheel completely and put them behind my head as we went around the corner. That always made for some interesting comments ... :ROFLMAO:
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#36 ·
And with the old water heater? out in the snow, too.
 
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#38 · (Edited)
#39 ·
Definitely not the Fram Racing. It is a high-flow, low filtration kind of filter. If you want Fram look for the Titanium which is good. The more common Fram Ultra Synthetic is OK, synthetix blen media like the Mobil 1. If I'm paying for a quality filter I want one with fully synthetic filter media. My current favorite is Wix XP.
 
#41 ·
My line of thinking has always been that automakers are in the business of selling cars/trucks, not making them last forever. With that in mind, whether an automobile, motorcycle, dirt bike, ATV, or snowmobile, I've always gone with a quality synthetic oil and a good aftermarket filter, never an OE branded oil or filter.

Wix is my go-to for everything. Mobil 1 is probably pretty good. I ran Fram 30 years ago in everything, but from what I'm hearing that's yet another brand that's gone full cheapout mode in the 21st century, and cut many corners.