sub'd
good luck!

 

day one speaker install

Day one just ran 0/1 gauge wire from battery to trunk. Took about 2 hours stuffing it under carpet with a wire clothes hanger.

 

Keep the pictures flowing...dont forget a large inline fuse for that feed
STEVE

 

I'll advise from experience, you'll need to get some airflow to that amp. With the exhaust under the floor and almost no circulation that amp will be in thermal protection in no time if you play it hard. Also give the factory enclosure some sound deadening on the top and a little poly fill inside. If you go with the components up front you can get the upper door surround with the tweeter mounting for about $100ish through the dealer. And last I would suggest something more like 14ga for your speaker wire. There's no benefit to using 14ga on your miss and highs and it's going to be alot easier to run the smaller stuff. Seems like a good plan, keep the pics coming.

 

10 ga speaker cable is way overkill. I'd save that money, and put it towards a better amp (definitely wouldn't chose that one).

Also, why do you need 0 ga power from battery to trunk? Do you plan to add additional amps later? Your current amp only needs 4 ga. The LC7i only take 1-2 amps, and can tap directly off the power on your amp (with 16-18 ga wire). Once again, I'd save the money from 0 ga, and put it towards a much better amp. Power Acoustic, Boss, Lanzar, Dual, etc. are at the near bottom of totem pole. And, don't believe their ridiculous power ratings. For a budget 5 channel, check out PPI P900.5.

 

day 2/3

day 2/3 run 8 pairs of 10 gauge wire from trunk to behind radio. 10 gauge was OVERKILL. it was almost impossible to run. I tested one speaker from the rear of car, the front driver side. It works, no interference. It been raining day and night here, so it took longer than I expected.

For the comments on AMP. I could of gone with a different brand, but I bought the one I did because of specs. really the SIZE of it. I know the RMS it says is no where true, but I am a electronic engineer. The fuses on the AMP are 2 40amps. this means it is more than I need. I have worked with many amps in the past, HIFONCIS were my favorite, only problem is that they are power hungry.

I am running a 8" sub @ 2 ohms. any amp would do. AMP price was $180. same as many others in class.

I have also picked my 6x9 and 6.5

Kicker 40CSS694 6"x9" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

Kicker 40CS654 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com


I am still waiting on my sub, door speakers, and rear compartment to arrive. Hopefully tomorrow some packages come in.

 

List of equipment, so far

Kicker 40CS654 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

Kicker 40CSS694 6"x9" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

Polk Audio MM840DVC 8" 500W Dual 4-ohm Mobile Monitor Series Car Subwoofer Driver at Onlinecarstereo.com

Kicker BT4 Positive or Negative Competition Battery Terminal Free Cell Antenna | eBay

2 Xscorpion 1 0 2 4 8 Gauge Ground Power Amp Distribution Blocks GDB10248P | eBay

StreetWires ZN2204 Zero Noise RCA Audio Interconnects 6 5ft 4 Channel | eBay

DB Link 2 Channel 3 Foot OFC RCA Cable Twisted Copper Conductor 24K Gold Tip New | eBay

Bullz Audio BSS10 200PB 10 Gauge 200ft Car Speaker Cable Wire Platinum Blue | eBay

New Power Acoustik BAMF4500 5D 4500W BAMF Series Class D 5 Channel Amplifier | eBay

Audiocontrol lc7i 6 Channel Line Output Converter with Acubass Epicenter New | eBay

Not added, amp install kit, I have wire left over from old systems, and also oem sub box and rear storage compartment

 

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/...s-2014/17420-all-wiring-info-youll-ever-need-your-14-durango-please-sticky.html

Here is your wiring info!

 

subwoofer

Here are pics of stock subwoofer vs new after market subwoer.
Used a 1/2 spacer, black silicone, glue, poly fill. I still need to test it to make sure no air leaks.

 

Cool Wouldnt have paid to remove stock Sub and get something a bit bigger
STEVE

 

how is it looking?

So I got the rear storage compartment today (finally).
Here are some pics of what I'm hoping will work. I really don't know what i was thinking but I'm going to roll with it.
I do have the amp and lc7i elevated about 1/4 inch. I did the same thing in my dodge magnum and my amps never over heated. I also think I'll be good because air will be coming in from jack location. Hopefully i finish up the trunk set up this weekend. I'll mess with switching out door speakers last.

 

Looking good. With using the Lc7i, will you have any EQ/balance/fade controls from the factory head unit? I've been missing my system from my old Yukon lately. The R/T factory is ok, but I'm just used to much better.

 

complete

Here are some pics of completed job. I will go in detail soon. Any questions.?

 

complete Here are some pics of completed job. I will go in detail soon. Any questions.?

Yes....will you come do mine for me :[

 

Good job hope the sound is Great
STEVE

 

The 6.5 rear was very difficult. The hole was a little bigger and the screw location was about a half inch away. I ended up cutting out the rear cones. I then dropped the 6.5 kicker into the frame. Minor adjustments had to be made, difficulty 7/10. The front were a cake. The kickers fit perfectly both for the speaker and tweeters. It was a perfect fit, difficulty 1/10. With the lc7i I have no static or humming what so ever. Only clean sound. I also have the lc7i to turn on with a signal. Opening doors, locks etc turns it on and the amplifier.

Issues:
Subwoofer- stock box is too small & thin to handle after market sub.
Amp- @2 ohms is to powerful for sub and box.

Pros:
everything works.
No overheating.
Nothing shows.
I'm happy

 

Juice75.
Eq works great
Balance works great
fade - the front always stays on, it's because the lc7i has the back speakers summarized with the front. I had to do this to get all speakers giving a full signal.

 

As I stated before, wrap some sound deadener on the stock enclosure and you'll see some reasonable gains. When time/ money allows you might want to look into the Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3. I know it was a night and day upgrade when I finally did it to replace my LOC/ summing unit. Overall I think it looks like a success. Well done!

 

Update.

I feel like I need more bass. the oem box is really too skinny and thin, I'm going to build a wood one this weekend. I'll make sure to add pics and dimensions of box.

 

custom l7 8" under driver seat

So I hated the sub being in the back. it was not sounding good. I ended up putting a different sub under the driver seat

Here is what I went with Kicker 11S8L72

I had a custom box made from a local audio store. I saw a link on google that someone did in a JEEP, same compartment.

hope every one likes lol.

 

Hi mohelp,
I am planning to swap my stock six speakers with aftermarket speakers but I need some details before I can commit to it.
Your help with the below questions will be much appreciated:
1. Instructions on how to open the door panel to access the speakers
2. Size and impedence of all the stock speakers as per my knowledge 6"X9" front, 6.5" rear and 1" tweeters just need confirmation and the impedence value.
3. What is the depth available in the doors for the speakers
Currently I am considering Infinity Reference series or JBL GTO series as both have high sensitivity rating and 2ohm impedence

 

Cbhere. Just saw question. Do you still need help?

 

Hey mohelp - do you have any more info on how you fit the sub under the driver seat? I was looking at mine, and doesn't seem like there is enough room. Do you know the cu.ft. Of the box?

 

I had a car audio shop cut out the storage space.
It was very easy they said. U can go with a wood box with a 8" or fiber glass a 10". Wood - $200 or less. Fiber glass - $270 or less . I can send you pictures if you want and you can show the audio shop or try your self. Just let me know

 

I would very much like to see the pics, if you don't mind posting them here. Assuming you have other pics in addition to what you've already posted?

And is your enclosure wood or fiberglass?

Thanks,


Turborusty

 

I would like to see the pics as well Very interesting. I would love to keep the system in the truck during road trips (need the trunk space for luggage).

 

how is that amp working out for you? I've been around audio a long time and my general recommendation is to avoid anything that is super high power and low cost. But i have no personal experience with these amps, so I figured I had better ask. You know what they say, if it sounds too good to be true.....

 

Here are some pictures of the sub front, rear, sides as best as I could of taken and rear with seat back and rug.