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mohelp

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am going to swap out all 6 of my speakers and install 6 new ones and a subwoofer.

Here is what I'm going to do.

* 5.1 channel amplifier -Power Acoustik BAMF4500/5D
4500W BAMF Series Class D 5-Channel Amplifier

* 6x9 component speakers infront [haven't chosen yet]

* 6 1/2 coaxial rear speaker [haven't chosen yet]

* 8" polk audio mm840dvc

* AUDIOCONTROL
LC7i BLACK 6-Chan Line Output Converter

I'm using 10 gauge speaker cable for all speakers and 2 power distribution boxes, one for power one for ground.

Oem sub box will be used with the polk audio 8". I'm going to run it @2 ohms. Battery to trunk will be 0 gauge. To amp will be 4 gauge.

Had to purchase oem box (used) & oem rear compartment (used)

The lc7i will accept the 4 speaker inputs and add them up to a clean signal with 6 outputs. This is why I got the lc7i. It will give me front, rear, sub rca outputs.

More stuff will be used like battery post and rcas of course but no need to mention in detail.

I hope I don't mess up my 2014 limited. I'm not a expert but I'm hoping for the best. Everything will be in rear compartment in trunk.

I will post before, during and after pics.

If anyone has the wiring diagram for the speaker colors please post it or private message me it.

Should start this week or next week waiting on rear compartment and a few other things. Door speakers will be done last. I'm more worried about the wires.
 
Keep the pictures flowing...dont forget a large inline fuse for that feed
STEVE
 
I'll advise from experience, you'll need to get some airflow to that amp. With the exhaust under the floor and almost no circulation that amp will be in thermal protection in no time if you play it hard. Also give the factory enclosure some sound deadening on the top and a little poly fill inside. If you go with the components up front you can get the upper door surround with the tweeter mounting for about $100ish through the dealer. And last I would suggest something more like 14ga for your speaker wire. There's no benefit to using 14ga on your miss and highs and it's going to be alot easier to run the smaller stuff. Seems like a good plan, keep the pics coming.
 
10 ga speaker cable is way overkill. I'd save that money, and put it towards a better amp (definitely wouldn't chose that one).

Also, why do you need 0 ga power from battery to trunk? Do you plan to add additional amps later? Your current amp only needs 4 ga. The LC7i only take 1-2 amps, and can tap directly off the power on your amp (with 16-18 ga wire). Once again, I'd save the money from 0 ga, and put it towards a much better amp. Power Acoustic, Boss, Lanzar, Dual, etc. are at the near bottom of totem pole. And, don't believe their ridiculous power ratings. For a budget 5 channel, check out PPI P900.5.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
day 2/3

day 2/3 run 8 pairs of 10 gauge wire from trunk to behind radio. 10 gauge was OVERKILL. it was almost impossible to run. I tested one speaker from the rear of car, the front driver side. It works, no interference. It been raining day and night here, so it took longer than I expected.

For the comments on AMP. I could of gone with a different brand, but I bought the one I did because of specs. really the SIZE of it. I know the RMS it says is no where true, but I am a electronic engineer. The fuses on the AMP are 2 40amps. this means it is more than I need. I have worked with many amps in the past, HIFONCIS were my favorite, only problem is that they are power hungry.

I am running a 8" sub @ 2 ohms. any amp would do. AMP price was $180. same as many others in class.

I have also picked my 6x9 and 6.5

Kicker 40CSS694 6"x9" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

Kicker 40CS654 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com


I am still waiting on my sub, door speakers, and rear compartment to arrive. Hopefully tomorrow some packages come in.
 

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Discussion starter · #10 ·
subwoofer

Here are pics of stock subwoofer vs new after market subwoer.
Used a 1/2 spacer, black silicone, glue, poly fill. I still need to test it to make sure no air leaks.
 

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Cool Wouldnt have paid to remove stock Sub and get something a bit bigger
STEVE
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
how is it looking?

So I got the rear storage compartment today (finally).
Here are some pics of what I'm hoping will work. I really don't know what i was thinking but I'm going to roll with it.
I do have the amp and lc7i elevated about 1/4 inch. I did the same thing in my dodge magnum and my amps never over heated. I also think I'll be good because air will be coming in from jack location. Hopefully i finish up the trunk set up this weekend. I'll mess with switching out door speakers last.
 

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Looking good. With using the Lc7i, will you have any EQ/balance/fade controls from the factory head unit? I've been missing my system from my old Yukon lately. The R/T factory is ok, but I'm just used to much better. :)
 
Good job hope the sound is Great
STEVE
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
The 6.5 rear was very difficult. The hole was a little bigger and the screw location was about a half inch away. I ended up cutting out the rear cones. I then dropped the 6.5 kicker into the frame. Minor adjustments had to be made, difficulty 7/10. The front were a cake. The kickers fit perfectly both for the speaker and tweeters. It was a perfect fit, difficulty 1/10. With the lc7i I have no static or humming what so ever. Only clean sound. I also have the lc7i to turn on with a signal. Opening doors, locks etc turns it on and the amplifier.

Issues:
Subwoofer- stock box is too small & thin to handle after market sub.
Amp- @2 ohms is to powerful for sub and box.

Pros:
everything works.
No overheating.
Nothing shows.
I'm happy
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Juice75.
Eq works great
Balance works great
fade - the front always stays on, it's because the lc7i has the back speakers summarized with the front. I had to do this to get all speakers giving a full signal.
 
As I stated before, wrap some sound deadener on the stock enclosure and you'll see some reasonable gains. When time/ money allows you might want to look into the Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3. I know it was a night and day upgrade when I finally did it to replace my LOC/ summing unit. Overall I think it looks like a success. Well done!
 
Discussion starter · #20 · (Edited)
custom l7 8" under driver seat

So I hated the sub being in the back. it was not sounding good. I ended up putting a different sub under the driver seat

Here is what I went with Kicker 11S8L72


I had a custom box made from a local audio store. I saw a link on google that someone did in a JEEP, same compartment.

hope every one likes lol.
 

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