When you hit 5th at 90 mph it was struggling. Mine right now shifts to 5th at 113 mph lol

Can't wait to see what she'll do when you open her airways! I'm thinking you'll be at the low 13s easy without a cam.

 

When you hit 5th at 90 mph it was struggling. Mine right now shifts to 5th at 113 mph lol

Can't wait to see what she'll do when you open her airways! I'm thinking you'll be at the low 13s easy without a cam.

oh wow so they definitely make a difference. Maybe because mine is basically stock besides the tune they don’t work as well as if I was fbo?

 

I’m going to strap a gopro to the steering wheel and film the tach and speedo tomorrow to see when its shifting because i dont look when I’m driving lol

 

You can here it in the video. Sounds like the stock 5500 rpms or so.

Just a quick vid after I first put the cam in getting the afr dialed in. Was 90 something out side. That's a 6400 shift. The 6000 shift from before the cam sounds different than stock too.

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You’ll want a new tcm tune to take advantage of them. With the driveshafts spinning faster, the transmission is seeing its targeted shaft speed sooner and shifting sooner.

 

you think so? I talked to mags before I got them and he said nothing would be needed. I did email him yesterday to ask some questions but ill check on today’s runs when its shifting and if its shifting early. I didn’t think anything was needed in terms of tuning

 

It’ll run fine. A tune isn’t needed to make it run. But to take full advantage of the upgrade, it is. Lock up, shift points, all things that are affected by rpm//shaft speed and a myriad of other things. It made a noticeable different in my scat pack when I went from stock 3.08 to 3.73 and then had the trans tune updated for the gears.

 

I should hear back from MAGs monday hopefully and see what he says and see what, if anything, needs to be done. I'll get it figured out! These gears should have more improvement than what I'm getting

 

I just went and filmed the speedo and tach for my 1/4 mile run and I think I figured out why my 1/4 mile didn't improve much with these.

It's shifting into 5th gear at 94mph before it hits the 1/4 mile at 99mph where as before the gears it would finish the 1/4 mile in 4th gear and not have that extra shift.

Here are shift points:

1st to 2nd: 5500rpm at 34mph
2nd to 3rd: 6000rpm at 54mph
3rd to 4th: 6100rpm at 77mph
4th to 5th: 5800rpm at 94mph

If I can get the tuner to make the 1st to 2nd shift point a higher rpm and the 4th to 5th a higher rpm I think I can shave time off. Especially if it doesn't shift into 5th gear before crossing the 1/4 mile.

 

I just went and filmed the speedo and tach for my 1/4 mile run and I think I figured out why my 1/4 mile didn't improve much with these.

It's shifting into 5th gear at 94mph before it hits the 1/4 mile at 99mph where as before the gears it would finish the 1/4 mile in 4th gear and not have that extra shift.

Here are shift points:

1st to 2nd: 5500rpm at 34mph
2nd to 3rd: 6000rpm at 54mph
3rd to 4th: 6100rpm at 77mph
4th to 5th: 5800rpm at 94mph

If I can get the tuner to make the 1st to 2nd shift point a higher rpm and the 4th to 5th a higher rpm I think I can shave time off. Especially if it doesn't shift into 5th gear before crossing the 1/4 mile.

Can’t wait to watch this…

 

Okay so I got a PCM and TCM tune revision installed. Basically I had to do some pulls to make the new tune pressures and shift points which are now all set at 6100rpm.

It's shifting properly now at 6100rpm in every gear except from 1st to 2nd. When in 1st and I do a WOT pull it gets to 6000rpm and then there's a big clunk like it shifts but then the car goes into limp mode and I can't shift or put it in park or anything. It stays in some unknown high gear and I have to stop the car, turn it off and then back on to fix it. It threw a code after that PCM:0101: Lost Communication with TCM.

Anyone ever have that issue before? Almost like at 6k rpm it goes into some kind of safety mode??

 

Looks like it hit the rev limiter but mine never went into limp mode. Happened when I first got the DD and was paying around with the paddle shifters. Otherwise that's a new one for me. Haven't seen it on the web.

Most hand held tuners have a way to raise the rev limit. I'd put it as high as you can go. I'd be careful
though till you contact the MAGs guys again.

 

Looks like it hit the rev limiter but mine never went into limp mode. Happened when I first got the DD and was paying around with the paddle shifters. Otherwise that's a new one for me. Haven't seen it on the web.

Most hand held tuners have a way to raise the rev limit. I'd put it as high as you can go. I'd be careful
though till you contact the MAGs guys again.

so it does it before it hits rev limiter. Its like right at 6k it shuts off but new tune has rev limiter at 6100 for all gears. I emailed MAGs what is going on so I’ll update once i hear back and if we figure it out.
I wish there wasn’t an issue because then i could go get some runs in today! Pretty sure this will fix the issues on slow times and show actual improvement of the gears because i get 600 more rpm in 1st and 300 more rpm in 4th

 

Pull a log and send it off. My charger would occasionally whack 7000 during the 1-2 shift and never went into limp mode.

 

I don’t see anywhere in my tuner to change gear ratio or transmission stuff. There’s only tire size and rev limit.

So I had the tuner change rev limits to 6100rpm across the board. Went out for new runs and the car is slower than before the gears. Ran a 13.98 with a -180ft DA which before the gears I ran a 13.94 with a 270ft DA. Something is still off and doesn’t make sense…

i almost think that because all my car has is a tune and is stock otherwise that these gears actually hurt it. But that also doesn’t make sense at the same time. Getting kind of frustrating

 

You get the limp mode thing taken care of? Another thing to take into account is your power curves and where your shifts drop into those. Is 6100rpm the ideal shift point? Dunno. If it shifts at 6100rpm and it only drops say a 1000rpm (hypothetical), then you are already at the top end of your power curve and aren’t going to gain anything. The ideal spot to be in with each gear change is just below the peak of your curve.

 

Yeah so the limp mode issue is solved. I woke up middle of the night and thought about this exact thing. I watched my video again and when it shifts at 6100rpm from 2-3 it drops to 4900rpm. Shifting at 6100rpm From 3-4 it drops to 5200rpm. It varies by gear

when it was shifting at 5500rpm from 1st to 2nd it dropped to 5100rpm. All that is beyond me so hopefully my tuner can look at it all and figured out what the best shift point is in each gear. I sent him a data log of my 1/4 mile last night for him to look at

hopefully i can figure this out but as of now these gears are definitely not worth for my particular vehicle

 

I remember when I put the original tune in my '06 Daytona I was constantly going into limp mode after raising rev limiter and shift points. Stock rev was something like 5,700 rpm if I recall. I had to set rev limiter higher than shift points. Think I wound up with 6200 rpm rev, and 6,000 shift points. This was with the older NAG1 5-speed.

Curious to see what the solution is with the newer 8-speed, as your spread between gears isn't as dramatic as it was with only 5 speeds.

 

My suggestion would be to keep adding mods. I think it'll do great once you open up the high end.

 

I’d like to add something to this thread based upon my experience in tuning my 2016 RT with HPTuners software.

1. Changing the gear ratio in the software doesn’t automatically change the rest of the settings associated with it to make it run like should like it came from the factory. The parameters still think you are running your original differentials based upon other parameters that are not changed. To put it another way the PCM and TCM do not work like a trickle down effect…change one parameter and all the others automatically update.

2. The neural network platform that the PCM/TCM runs is very complicated to tune. You can’t just change one thing and expect it to work as such. It takes a lot of knowledge and trial and error otherwise something could really get messed up and you have some expensive repairs to make.

3. Changing your engine RPM limits only will not give you what you are looking for. I raised my cutoff to 6,400 and maximum to 6,500. It didn’t change anything. I even messed around with the RPM limits when using the paddle (autostick) since those are a separate parameter. The gears did not hold longer in all cases. It wasn’t until I went into the trans settings and played around with the different settings like the TCM RPM limit, shift scheduling and shift timing (up shift and down shift) did I start to see a change.

4. I even went as far as copying a 2018 DDSRT tune in some of the RPM limits and TCM parameters mentioned above and it did not take. When EVERYTHING talks to EVERYTHING in these neural network controlled vehicles it’s really difficult to get desired results.

I am currently on the hunt for a tune that I can compare from a DD V6 that was equipped with 3.45 gears to compare to 3.09 gears.

Food for thought. I hope you get it all sorted out because I am seriously contemplating doing this swap. Thanks for all your insight so far!!


Build thread: 2016 R/T - awehlage’s build

 

We’re data logging again but this time data logging full 1/4 mile runs to dial in all the shift points.
The issue with the last runs was it was going to 6400rpm in the data log which was weird because on my tach it was shifting at 6100. Did a new tcm and pcm tune today and it ran better than yesterday but still not completely there i dont think. DA was -1777ft which is way lower (2000ft lower) than it is when I normally run. Ran a 1.99 60ft, 5.28 0-60, and a 13.72 1/4 mile

 

Well that'll do it. What kind of tuner do you have? I leave mine plugged in to the OBD port all the time. Has a lot of different pids which will show a ton of info, like on a diagnostic tool. The rpms on the tac versus the tuner reading is pretty dead on
till I see on video the needle doesn't go very far past the redline on WOT runs.

Thought that was only mine.

 

You could pull the air box out and make a quick run. Just to see if it’s limiting anything.

 

I’m thinking I’m just going to order an intake this week. Looking at voolant

 

Can someone with an RT that’s all wheel drive in factory gears post their rpm at 60 mph 70 mph and 80 mph all in 8th gear

 

60mph = 1724RPM
80mph = 1824RPM


Build thread: 2016 R/T - awehlage’s build

 

Not related really but I scored a new open box bbk 85mm throttle body for $360 (normal price $490) and picked up a new AFE momentum intake for the 6.4 manifold for $350 (normal price $480). Saved $260 so couldn’t pass it up. Now just have to get the 6.4 manifold and wiring components

 

Nice! The BBK is a larger bore all the way through. The openings to both the 5.7 and 6.4 intake manifold are a hair shy of 85mm. Didn't have anything to accurately measure it but I'd guess like 84.5mm or something like that. That's why I didn't go bigger. Don't thinks it's necessary until force induction to go any bigger imo.

 

Nice. I’m going to get the gold heat tape. I plan on doing tests to see what works on various things to keep IAT down. Using my code reader to monitor temps and then map out a specific drive and take the same drive before and after doing tape and other stuff. Interested to see if that’s working for you

 

View attachment 118439
View attachment 118440
View attachment 118441
I’ve done this too keep intake temps down.

Custom fab out of aluminum and lined with heat shield around the entire intake box. Always wondered if this hurt my flow. I also added a shield where the stock intake inlet tube is. You can see the two silver rivets in the second pic where it is.

thoughts were that the SRT hood would allow plenty of cool air in. Completely need to play with it.

This weekend I will be doing runs back to back, one with and one without. About to see what the deal is.

If anyone is wondering. I wouldn’t say the heat shield helped with intake temps. Save the $40….

You'll never get around heat soak. Sitting for to long will still get the temps way up. But when I first switched to the big filter I didn't have a heat shield, it was just connected to the tube sitting in that big open spot. There were huge fluctuations in the iat when just driving around. And it definitely wasn't "cooler" than my air box or current cai design. The way it is now, In the summer before I sat at a light too long, it would stay within 10-11 degrees of ambient. Now it'll stay within 8.

The trick is it has to be able to pull a good amount of air in from the outside somewhere. Our Durango's were not built with that in mind. Besides my modified hood "scoop" opening, there's no bottom to my heat shield. I also have a 2” silicon hose running from the lower grill up into my heat shield opening. I cut an opening in the plastic air dam next to the AC condenser, so the end of the hose faces out. Perfect ram air function. Even tested it with a fan just to see how it worked.

I've even thought of removing the fog light and using it like that like on the Challenger.

 

It's a 2 1/2” hose. Just measured again. Just fyi.

 

Sporacingrts Universal Multi Adjustable 77mm Flexible Cold Air Intake Pipe Inlet Hose Turbo Multi Flexible Air Intake Pipe Silver Connector Compatible with Universal Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083BNZDZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XKKAMME9T9YCGRS3TK8Y?psc=1

Pretty sure I found my part.

 

Already rough sketched it. Going to be a perfect fit.

Pretty amped about it

Post some pics when you're done.

I've got my self thinking about the fog light option again, just to add another inlet. Probably completely unnecessary at this point, smh! Damn modding is addicting!

 

Post some pics when you're done.

I've got my self thinking about the fog light option again, just to add another inlet. Probably completely unnecessary at this point, smh! Damn modding is addicting!

I will. It’s the same concept as the fog light but the diameter is bigger and you still get to keep the fog light. Comes in Friday. I’ll be doing this weekend. 😎

 

Okay gang, going to give it a final run tomorrow to see how the gears changed times. Unfortunately I don’t think they make much of a difference on a stock Durango. DA should be between 200-300ft which is right around where it was for my stock runs and runs with the diablo tune. I’ll get a final video of the numbers and my thoughts on the 3.45 swap.

my afe intake and bbk 85mm throttle body should be in tomorrow so i may slap those on after these runs, do an oil change because its needed, and then head back out for some before and afters of the intake and tb. Not sure I’ll be able to do it all tomorrow but I’ll try. The afe intake is for a 6.4 intake manifold so ill have to retro fit it for the 5.7 intake manifold until i get all the stuff i need to do the 6.4 swap.

 

I wasn't able to get much accomplished this weekend. I did get my afe intake and bbk throttle body but did not install them. I extended my IAT sensor and started on the TPS Sensor just to prep for the 6.4 intake manifold. BTW I ordered a ported 6.4l intake manifold and the SRV z controller today. The intake manifold has a 5 week lead so it will likely be january when I get all that installed.

I did get to change my oil yesterday and the durango feels better. Went out for a quick 0-60 by my house (not the usual spot) with a DA of 794ft and temp at 57F I ran a 5.46 0-60. I honestly think it's just going to stay around there until I get more mods. I think the gears are only useful if you have supporting mods like full intake full exhaust so I am working towards that. By end of January I will have full intake completed (assuming my port manifold is here by then).

 

Can't wait to see the potential with the gears. Will make me decide whether I'm gonna go that route too.

I'm hoping I can get to the Midnight Mayhem event at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway on Dec 10th. It's an open street legal drag race. I can get a time slip. I'm going to try and get my 97 octane race tune data log for Jay Green, so he can work his magic before then. I'll be using Race Gas additive. Should be around 1300 to 1400 DA that night.

Then eventually get out to Death Valley to do some runs with just my normal 91 octane tune. Takes too much gas to get out there to try a different octane tune.

 

I lost 172 pounds...

Those are my heavy duty jumpers. I swapped them with my wife's lighter ones. When I go to the track I'll probably remove the rest of the bench. It will be a piece of cake now. Might remove the spare too. But it's a long drive to the Speedway.

I might get out to death valley tonight....

 

Let us know the results. I installed the bbk throttle body and afe intake tonight. Went out for a run, no difference in time. Hopefully the port manifold helps when that comes in. IAT is down about 10 degrees with the new intake tho

 

Ok so I just got back from Death Valley. Found a spot to try via a gps altitude app before I went there. Turned out to be prefect. Long straight flat -263 ft below sea level. DA for the runs was -504. Got weather data with a small weather sensor with a barometer. Very accurate. Been comparing it to readings at the Airport not far away for the last few weeks.

So that's the good news. Bad news is I maxed out the fuel input on the mid and high end so I was running around 15 for my AFR! Probably pulling timing like a mofo. When I was at a 2200 DA I was at 16% fuel increase on the high end so I had Jay zero out the tuner levels based on what I had them set at. Still I maxed them out out there. So I'm kicking my self in the head!

My best run had a 2sec 60ft though! That makes me real happy. Also realized my first thoughts about the Dragy not being accurate, in my area of Las Vegas at least, was correct. Dragy was real close to the tuner in times on these these runs, a bit off on the mph but that could be my tire size settings. Thought I had it on point.

Keep in mind this is with a very less than ideal AFR. After watching the video of my first runs dialing in the AFR my the spark advance at 6300 rpms was 11 lol!

Another trip out there is coming. Will have the AFR right at the track on Friday at least.

 

Glad you finally made it out that Way. That DA sounds absolutely amazing!!!! AFR of 15 and only 11 degrees is hilarious. Jay will get you right, just send him the logs. When it’s all said and done, you’ll be coming close to 13.1s 💪.

 

I want to add too, where I was, was isolated as hell. No cell service and absolutely nothing around for many many miles. And only passed one car on the way out past Shoshone, the little town next to the turn off into that part of the valley. I was no where near the tourism part of Death Valley. Which was 30 more miles north.

Definitely have to have trust in your vehicle for that one.

 

Do you brake torque your launch or just dead stop to full throttle?

My 0-10 and 0-20 are faster than yours but your times are better on 0-30, 0-40, 0-50 and 0-60 by a lot. I'm wondering if it's the launch or the gears that made mine quicker in those two spots but then slower everywhere else (maybe due to sooner shifts and more shifts?)

Same with 60ft, I have a faster time there but everywhere else yours is faster. Wondering if it's launch or gears causing that

 

Zwade did you have your tuner change throttle response and WOT parameters? That will also help in your efforts (in general) of having faster overall times.


Build thread: 2016 R/T - awehlage’s build

 

Zwade did you have your tuner change throttle response and WOT parameters? That will also help in your efforts (in general) of having faster overall times.


Build thread: 2016 R/T - awehlage’s build

Yeah he changed all that but as of now I'm not going to data log or mess with anything else until I get the 6.4 manifold on