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Frantann1997

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello, new here to the site I have been having problems with my Durango lately and I can’t not figure it out. I have a 2017 Dodge Durango V6. I have been having trouble with the car. I have replaced the VVT solenoid valves for the intake and exhaust. I replaced the spark plugs and coil packs. I just replaced the fuel injector. Everything I come to a Stop the car starts to shake that happens when I start to slow down to a stop too. Can any help me with this ?
 
Frantann:
Welcome to DDN. What are the codes, and how many miles on your Durango? Is the battery original? If so, it's 5 or more years old. I'd have it tested, and replace it if it is less than 100%.


Don
 
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Frantann:
Were the VVT solenoids replaced in response to this issue, or another? Do you hear any unusual clicking/clacking/tapping from the top side of the engine? The 3.6L is known for some rocker arm/tappet problems that can lead to a misfire on one or more cylinders.

Don
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Yes we replaced them because of the misfire. I don’t hear any sounds at all. It starts shacking when I’m coming to a stop. I have noticed that my stop/start does not work that well. When I get the bottom it starts for about 30 seconds then it shuts off.
 
What about your batteries? There are 2 of them. If one, or both are failing, that could be the cause of all of this. Gotta rule out the low hanging fruit early on.

Don
 
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FYI the alternator does not regulate the voltage...that is done by the PCM so it could also be a bad PCM. Usually the diodes go bad on the alternator. In fact on challengers there was a recall on the earlier years as the diodes were leaky. These rigs use an IBS (intelligent battery sensor) which monitors state of charge and temp of the battery, and it can go bad causing batteries to register incorrectly as well.

BTW have you tried putting the trans in neutral just before coming to a stop to see if you feel the shakes or notice if the RPM drop/bounce around? I am wondering if it could be a trans issue, like it stays in a higher gear causing RPMs to drop? My 2017 GT downshifts when I come to a stop to the point that you feel each gear drop...especially the one to 1st gear and that is in eco, normal and sport mode.

But like everyone is suggesting, get the batteries replaced. Mine were original and I noticed in cold weather the Stop/Start would always say it was in battery protection mode. Just replaced both with Bosch brand batteries and now it works in cold weather (although I keep it off during winter). Did not load test the aux one but my tester states the condition of the battery is good based off CCA which is 200amps. When replacing the battery, disconnect the IBS first and then the negative of the aux battery followed by the main battery negative cable...then install in reverse order. Also pay attention to the aux battery positive terminal as the FSM has it labeled incorrectly.

 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
FYI the alternator does not regulate the voltage...that is done by the PCM so it could also be a bad PCM. Usually the diodes go bad on the alternator. In fact on challengers there was a recall on the earlier years as the diodes were leaky. These rigs use an IBS (intelligent battery sensor) which monitors state of charge and temp of the battery, and it can go bad causing batteries to register incorrectly as well.

BTW have you tried putting the trans in neutral just before coming to a stop to see if you feel the shakes or notice if the RPM drop/bounce around? I am wondering if it could be a trans issue, like it stays in a higher gear causing RPMs to drop? My 2017 GT downshifts when I come to a stop to the point that you feel each gear drop...especially the one to 1st gear and that is in eco, normal and sport mode.

But like everyone is suggesting, get the batteries replaced. Mine were original and I noticed in cold weather the Stop/Start would always say it was in battery protection mode. Just replaced both with Bosch brand batteries and now it works in cold weather (although I keep it off during winter). Did not load test the aux one but my tester states the condition of the battery is good based off CCA which is 200amps. When replacing the battery, disconnect the IBS first and then the negative of the aux battery followed by the main battery negative cable...then install in reverse order. Also pay attention to the aux battery positive terminal as the FSM has it labeled incorrectly.

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Discussion starter · #13 ·
So I have tried what you said to put it on to neutral and the RPM did not jump or anything like that. It only start shaking when I make full Stop. I just replaced one of the fuel injectors thinking that would help and nothing has happened yet I did notice when I moved my shifter lever from neutral to drive the car does jump same from neutral to reverse.
 
So I have tried what you said to put it on to neutral and the RPM did not jump or anything like that. It only start shaking when I make full Stop. I just replaced one of the fuel injectors thinking that would help and nothing has happened yet I did notice when I moved my shifter lever from neutral to drive the car does jump same from neutral to reverse.
What is your RPM when you observe the shake? I have a 2017 GT and my RPM is ~700 IIRC. Also, after replacing the injector are you still seeing a misfire code? And lastly, did you have the batteries checked out (load tested to confirm they are good)?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
It’s about 700 like yours. Yes it’s still reading a misfire code for a cylinder two. After the first initial check of the batteries when I went to advance auto two days later I went to O’Reillys and AutoZone and they told me the batteries are perfectly fine same for the alternator
 
It’s about 700 like yours. Yes it’s still reading a misfire code for a cylinder two. After the first initial check of the batteries when I went to advance auto two days later I went to O’Reillys and AutoZone and they told me the batteries are perfectly fine same for the alternator
OK so the batteries are good then.

If you still are getting a misfire code after replacing the injector, then it could be mechanical issue (valvetrain or the head itself) with the engine and not transmission related. If compression and leakdown look good (and plugs, coil and injector have been replaced) then the only other culprit could be a weak fuel pump. There were several TSBs concerning misfire codes (there were PCM flash updates) and warped heads on the 2016 models but not for 2017. On a side note +2016 pentastars are VVT and VVL equipped along with a liquid cooled EGR that can also be a culprit. However, if your 2017 was an early production then it is possible some of those issues may have made it to your durango. A consistent misfire code that does not go away when replacing spark plugs, coil or injector is usually a sign that the valvetrain (worn lobe, rocker arm or lifter) is usually to blame. Multiple misfire codes on one bank are usually a sign of a bad head or head gasket. Again compression and leakdown tests can help diagnose this without having to tear into the engine. Those are the test I would have done up front along with a fuel pressure test as I generally don't like throwing parts at a problem. This will tell you if the engine is mechanically sound.

I would also start logging engine performance...RPM, MAP, LT/ST fuel trims, spark, O2 voltages, injector duty cycle (I use HP tuners but alfaobd software can also log these PIDs) so you can compare readings when the engine runs good to when it starts to shake.

BTW when you replaced the plugs how did #2 look compared to the other cylinders...was it darker in color?
 
Joe:
Welcome to DDN. The forum does not do a good job of informing, but this thread has not been active since December of '22.

The issue mentioned is a somewhat common one for the 3.6L engine, but many don't experience it.

Don
 
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