[ashishgheware]

I have a 2015 that started having this same issue. Checked for power at fuse F70 in TIPM and good power. To be safe, tried a new bypass cable. Still no start. Took vehicle to repair shop, and said they suspect it is the fuel pump. They are telling me that the entire exhaust system has to be dropped to get the fuel tank out to replace the pump.
Is this correct? Saying the tank is a "horseshoe shape" ....

I am in the same situation. The F70 bypass did not work. I need to tow the vehicle to the dealer now.
They will need to evaluate this issue and fix a recall. Not sure about the $ impact.
But yes, its correct the entire exhaust needs to be dropped.

 

[ashishgheware]

Dec 2015 Dodge Durango SXT, 60K miles.
The Car runs normally most of the time.
But sometime it Cranks but does not turnover and start completely.
Does not appear to be Alternator Problem, Starter Problem or Battery Problem (just 1 year old).
Wait for 4-5 hours or a day and the vehicle starts again and runs around the town without any problem.
Is its a Fuel Pump Relay problem, How to replace it or bypass it?
The youtube videos are not helping as the fuse box layout is different for them.
Attached is the cranking video for reference.

Any guidance will be helpful.

Took the Dodge Durango to the Dealer and following is the feedback I got:

• Powertrain Control Module needs to be replaced because there is no signal/connectivity as per them.
• Then further evaluation will be carried out why the Car does not start.
• $225 for checking the problem.
• $1,500 for changing Powertrain Control Module.

I am thinking of taking the replaced Powertrain Control Module and sending it to FCA (Now Stellantis) engineers. I have worked for them 5 years.

How can a car lose its Powertrain Control Module at 60,000 miles. Its very likely that the dealer is fooling me as I towed in my Car. Very disappointed.

 

[ashishgheware]

I read your post from last year. I was just curious. Where was the wiring bad? Did you have to drop the tank to jump the harness? Thanks!

Step1: The dealer changed the Body Control module $1,472. But the problem still continued. [On the phone the Service Tech 1 had said Power Control Module, I take notes and had written it down, but later he said, I had said Body Control Module]

Step2: The dealer changed the Fuel tank $2,200. But the problem still continued. Had to drop the fuel tank, best of my knowledge. But the problem still continued. [Service Tech 2 from here took over from here].

Step3: The dealer changed the Power Control Module $1,472. The problem got fixed.

Step4: The engine light came on for Fuel Pump wiring showing high voltage. Took it back and they did a fix.

Now the vehicle is running fine after spending $5,272. Dealer gave me $250 Discount. So out of pocket hit of $5,000.

But when vehicle is standing for 2-3 weeks, it gives me a scare at least once but goes on the start.

Basically, Dealers will fool you and loot you with this problem. They will adamantly say their diagnosis was correct and all these were the problems.

Just sell this car if it starts well. In cold season you will not have this problem. In hot summers the problem is more.

Empty the fuel tank as you will need to drop it and then replace the Fuel pump.