Grainger has the bolts for your headers. 5/16 head 12 point. I decided to use them on my D headers and boat headers.

 

Headers installed, engine ready for install



well 12 point won't work. can't get a socket on them. I got hedman header bolts from https://www.summitracing.com.
pro tip everything I order from the summit warehouse in OH, shows up the next day. $6.95 no problem. Here are shots of the header bolts, and installing them with the 3/8" head. The hexhead is smaller, giving way more clearance at the pipes. Although two on each side could not be torqued, I will have to pick up some SAE crowsfoot to torque those. Engine is officially ready to install!

 

Flip that transmission

Today I cleaned the transmission, changed the filter. Ended up reusing the nice gasket that was on it. The Driveworks crap I bought was pathetic. They gave you two rubber gaskets depending on your trans oil pan shape. However they were very cheap.

ready for fluid. If I had more time I would paint it blue like the other aluminum stuff we'll see. That would mean more time with wire brush.
Swapped rear mount out. I trashed the donor one "learning" how to get the engine out. ( just use a jack or trans jack under transmission.

transmission is more or less ready for install.

transfer case and some loops to hook chain too on the 4 corners of the engine block for the lift.

 

Motor lift mount point fabircation

1/4" plate from Alro Steel | American Metal Supplier | Since 1948

measured distance on head bolts 3/8"-16 threads, 1" deep, 2.5" on centers

scribe it out, drill two holes to confirm.

test fit, good

drill, de-bur, grabbed 3/8"-16, 1" flanged hex heads from Lansing Location | MidStates Bolt & Screw

chop, cut,drill, grind, deburr

Mock up on engine so loops are same height all the way around, and vertical, then tack it.

tacked

I love using Neodymium magnets from hard drives for holding welding stuff.

finished product, with engine and stand hanging from it.

I still have to get 500-1000# thrust washers from https://www.motionindustries.com tomorrow. I was able to get a steel nut for the end of the engine hoist balancer, I'll add the thrust bearings and then weld the nut on the end. No more chance of the motor slipping out of the balancer!

 

Found a bend in the flexplate. Ordered a new one after spending 2 hours trying to mate the trans and engine. it was so suttle. I'm glad I even spotted it. Probably would have shook the engine apart.

 

So you got the engine powder coated or did you painting the engine? I painted mine plum crazy (have a real obsession with that color lol). Now I just have to get that intake il have to find the link. One last question those nipples seem like there are too many. My 360 has 2 or 3 vacuum hoses going to the intake you have like 7 nipples lol

 

Yes I got the engine externals powder coated at Martin Specialty Coatings in Perry Michigan. I painted the block with hi-temp ceramic, metallic black paint. I used a heat gun and small torch to "bake" the paint on

Hughesengines.com . The intake does have extra vacuum ports. However it comes with rubber covers for those that are not used. .

So much rain. I am ready to drop engine in, but my 3 day window this week is getting rain rain rain !

 

Disc caliper conversion notes!

Here are the banjo bolts from a 2001 with single piston caliper on the left. Notice the hole is smaller, and the thread pitch appears to be 1.25 vs the 2003 dual piston caliper. Hole is larger ( duh x2 pistons) and the bolt size confirmed is 10mm x1.0- 24mm. I lost one and I have to purchase one.
autozone=nope
oreilies=nope
advanced auto parts=nope

 

Engine lift hook fail

first I had to notch the bracket for the throttle body install.

Then I proceeded to hook up the engine and transmission and do a test lift. Fortunately I had the transmission jack under it when two of the engine hooks failed. Lucky for me it only fell 2" back onto the trans jack and still had two hooks on the motor. Upon further inspection I discovered that I left the Stainless steel wire in the MIG welder. Therefore I did not have any penetration or proper welding. The welding material was just loosely stuck on top of the high carbon 1/4 plate I had. So I changed the wire and cleared all the SS off the parts, rechecked angles and rewelded every thing. You can see engine and transmission hanging, the properly welded hooks.

 

BAnjo bolts

When doing the dual piston caliper swap, you can reuse your hoses, however you must use the banjo bolt from the 2003 with the dual piston caliper
10mmx1.0 24mm= 2003
10mmx1.5 24mm=2001

 

Motor installation series

engine outside on hoist. Side table with all sub assemblies on cardboard ready to install

Truck repositioned

Here we go!


The following one or two post depict the installation of the motor.

 

INSTALLATION with headers. +don't do it. remove right side at least

View attachment 41945

You can see the mark from the header touching the brake booster. Had to remove the right header, then remove the brake booster in order to clear the frame and get the distributor in right position. You MUST use a jack under the transmission. YOU do not tighten the engine mount bolts until the transfer case is attached. We stopped here on saturday With engine stuck on headers.

 

Installed Lessons learned

Installed.
Bracket for shifter cable is LARGER on the 2003 than the 2001 (and i checked my 1999 that too)
2001 .79in
2003 .875

Water system next, transfer case, and propshafts left.
Then fluids.
Then batteries
..pretty exciting

 

I have a Durango and was going to repaint the frame and fix the 3 broken body mounts. But this body is the most complex I've seen. So I am tempted not to do it. Everything is so "smashed" to say the least and there are so many body mounts. So I applaud you for doing this and you are one heck of a man! Lol

 

There are 12 body mounts. Two in the front at the radiator assembly. then 8 more spread out evenly from firewall to back under the axle.
No small feat either. I had to find the access holes and soak the top of the bolts for two weeks then I had to use a 6 foot pipe on my breaker bar ( btw the my 18" breaker bar 50 years old from Craftsman broke doing this) and a 25" breaker bar. I used a bouncing technique instead of brute force to get them out. AFAIK the mounts with bolts are $30 each.

Side note. You cannot use any lift kit with an AWD unless you recalculate the propshaft angles. There is a whole guide for doing this in the FSM. There are after market lift kits for the 2wd's and I have read how 4wd awd peeps have used these to the detriment of their u-joints

 

there are 12 body mounts. Two in the front at the radiator assembly. Then 8 more spread out evenly from firewall to back under the axle.
No small feat either. I had to find the access holes and soak the top of the bolts for two weeks then i had to use a 6 foot pipe on my breaker bar ( btw the my 18" breaker bar 50 years old from craftsman broke doing this) and a 25" breaker bar. I used a bouncing technique instead of brute force to get them out. Afaik the mounts with bolts are $30 each.

Side note. You cannot use any lift kit with an awd unless you recalculate the propshaft angles. There is a whole guide for doing this in the fsm. There are after market lift kits for the 2wd's and i have read how 4wd awd peeps have used these to the detriment of their u-joints

afaik?

 

This is coming along cant wait to see end results
STEVE

 

You're still doing a great job and a great job on the write up with the pics. Good luck.

 

This is very wonderful and is helping me. Great job and great write ups

 

This is a great project, good job!

 

Huge set of updates coming as soon as I get a free minute. Two weeks worth of issues found, problems solved.
I'm working 55-60 hours two jobs, and 30+ on truck, now in the 53rd week, with over 1000 man hours invested.
Hopefully later this after noon or tonight. Stay tuned.

 

Engine in now what?

Well with the install of the engine there are a few more things learned.

1. The need to NOT tighten the front motor mount nuts and thru bolts on the engine to engine mount. This led to the distributor cap having tons of pressure on it. And while moving the motor back and forth I believe the oil sending was borked. More on this later
2. I had to remove the header on the passenger side as the flange could not get back into the indentation of the frame and get "twisted" back to the drivers side without the large header tube hitting the vacuum booster. In the end I had to also remove the vacuum booster.
   you can see how the pipe was rubbing all the way down the vacuum booster, until i removed it. You can see how much the motor was twisted.
3. Getting the transfer case in , the key was to get the nose above the rear crossmember and pushed back to the front of the case. This then allows the transmission jack ( minus the trans holders) to slide under the transfer case almost flat. Now you can align the case to the rear of the transmission OD unit.
4. The rear motor mount ( rear of transmission to frame) requires that you jack up the drivers side first, add the 4 bolts, leave em just snug, then the passenger side, tight the 8 bolts. Then add the 4 nuts to the transmission mount to cross-member.
5. Sort out all the cables making sure trans-lines,transfer case vent, fuel line, and speed sensor are all attached to the proper mounts which are also the bolts for the transmission to engine. fuel line and vent tube, and transmission filler tube can all be preplaced on engine/trans if installing them together. Where push pin and tape tabs were broken, I used zip ties and dual sided velcro to attach lines back to their respective holders on transmission back.
6. install shift cable, kick down cable, and all other plugs. Since I had a lot of grease and oil on these connectors, I used brake cleaner, then electronics cleaner to get them ready to plug in.
7. once transfer case is in ( put on the 6 14mm nuts on the six studs while the engine and transfer case are down , BEFORE putting up the rear engine mount/crossmember.)> connect up the two plugs, vent tube, and fill with transmission fluid. My nv244 took 2.3 pints.
8. install the prop shaft see next post! bahahaha goat show.

 

Shafted AGAIN

Makes me wonder sometimes how home mechanics don't kill more people There were only 4 of these incorrect bolts jammed in and basically cross threaded into the companion shaft flange to transfer case. So its off to the dealer. Where we find them selling these for $15 a pop 6 are required!!

Well in hindsight I should have ran through the bolt holts on the companion flange of the transfer case with a tap. It took me two night sessions to get six bolts put in. One of the major issues is that the two bolts are held by the piece of metal, however no combination of 2 sets of holes will get the heads and the round (washer/flange) to clear the u-joints In then end I had to jack the whole truck on all fours and make sure it was in neutral to rotate enough that I was only forcing it about 1mm to clear the heads. You can try leaving the 4 bolts off the front axle, pulling the rear of the front propshaft back and tightening these down. Not easy.

this picture shows the close proximity. You can't move the bolts much as the metal piece restricts that movement. There is some. I had to force it past the u-joints. See the threads cut into the companion flange lower right of picture. RUSTY is not good with such tight fitting bolts.

 

a tale of two junkyards, small parts and a quid pro quo

So in the process I mangled pretty much every spark plug wire holder, bracket, and hose holder attached to the top of the engine on both the donor engine and the old one. So it was off to a junk yard I haven't been to in almost 30 years. I needed to do some brake line picture research for my quid pro quo with SSTUBES.com. So I got some pictures of 2 wheel drive routing.

I find they have 3 durangos, I need the vacuum accumulator hose too. I get a map go out in the yard. The trucks are picked over. No engines, some stuff in cabs, but otherwise pretty empty. I tried to get a brake line separator, off the 3 trucks, however they all broke in the cold. Well I was pretty bummed. As I was placing the hood on the last one, I look down and I was standing on the vacuum hose.

$10!!! what a rip

I then go to CAT's parts mart, who I do lots of business. Lo and behold, two new D's in 5.2 and 4.7. 4.7 had a perfect tranmission oil cooler, air conditioning condensor, so t grabbed those on a second trip. However all the stuff in that picture $1!! Guess what shops get my business.

oil cooler $!0
condensor $15

Now we are doing something.

 

transfer case rear seal

Use a chisel to pop the metal ring of the old seal out.
Make sure you drained the fluid first. DO I need to say that.
Seal was like $12. Old one looked like swiss cheese and lace.

 

Engine prep for starting.

Well we got the fan painted attached.
front radiator support painted too. installed.
It's time to make new locations for every wire,l bought cheap blue spark plug wire looms, except they were for 8mm wires and mine are 7mm. So some pink foam worked.
retighten the header bolts
hook up old transmission oil cooler until I can get new transmission lines, pan, temp gauge.
put radiator in.
location missing fender washers for oil cooler. I is missing.
install exhaust flange bolts. This took a crow bar to bend the pipes while I jacked them up with transjack. worked like a charm perfect fit.
install vacuum accumulator hose
move vapor cannister hose and check port, I had them routed OVER the intermediate shaft, behind the brake lines and up. Not good since they would have wore out on intermediate shaft and were touching the headers. A quick reference when i was in the junk yard, and we have them coming up from the firewall over the top. Added some velcro to hold this stuff in place.
transmission fluid check
transfer case fluid check
power steering fluid check
radiator, fan, lower shroud can be installed as one assembly ( and trans oil cooler too if I had my shift together).
radiator plug? crap. where is it.... wtf!!!

oh man, I have these plus I grabbed one from the junk yard on my lunch hour

left to right 2002 4.7L 2003 5.9, 2001 5.9 NOPE, NOPE, and NOPE.

So now what? I look at:
autozone
oreillyauto.com
advance auto
napa auto
google
amazon
carid Nope

So grab the numbers off my new radiator
It's made my Spectre Radiator Call them in CAnada

I finally get the tech to help me after telling them I have one part left to start my vehicle.

M14-2.0 CSF 9942

Seaching the goolges I find that the Honda insight had these. I order one. It's coming from CALIF and won't be here until 10/24.

GRR. I clean the whole garage, go through every thing I have nope. I loose a whole week.

Then I go back into the 2001 on, put down the rear seat center console:
In the cup holder

 

It's alive!

 

Video is private