[SmackAttack19]

Hey all;

Having owned a 5.7 Challenger for over 8 years, I have a Mitivac vacuum coolant refill kit (and know how to use it).

However; my wife's 2019 Durango R/T had one of those dang heater return hoses burst (only 50k miles) so this weekend I replaced it. I drained the radiator, fixed the hose, attached my vacuum refill kit, waited (a long time!) for the vacuum to hold steady, and refilled the coolant.

All's well, temperature hovers where it should (a tick or two above what I'll call the red, 1/4 hot line on the dial). HOWEVER, when you're parked and idling, the temp gauge slowly goes up hotter and approaches the white, mid-way line. You can hear the fans kick on, then the temp lowers. Since I don't drive this car routinely, I'm not sure if this behavior is normal, and I'm wondering if, despite the vacuum-refill, I still have air in the system. My Challenger doesn't do this... it holds at a consistent temp at all times.

Before I attempt a second vacuum bleed, or seek to remove the top nut on the water pump (if it's there like it is on my car), can anyone please let me know if your car has rising temps at idle?

Thank you in advance,
J

 

[Urbish]

Mine still acted a little goofy after a water pump change. I drove it a bit and whatever remaining air in the system burped out, requiring me to add about a quart of coolant to the reservoir. All good since then.

 

[Chase300]

There is a bleed port on the water pump like your Challenger had.
It may be normal....mine use to do the same, but after I replaced the radiator I noticed it now holds steady....so not sure what the answer is to your question.

 

[Don Fox]

SA19:
I'd think the gauge would rise a little bit if it's hot out, and you have the AC on. Nothing wrong with trying another bleed to be sure you have the air out. Elevate the front of the D 10-12 inches, with the heater(s) on high, open the system, start and let it warm up to operating temp with the fill cap off. Run the rpms up to 1.5-2k rpms several times as you do this to help move air up and out. Keep an eye on the gauge as well while doing this.

Don

 

[SmackAttack19]

SA19:
I'd think the gauge would rise a little bit if it's hot out, and you have the AC on. Nothing wrong with trying another bleed to be sure you have the air out. Elevate the front of the D 10-12 inches, with the heater(s) on high, open the system, start and let it warm up to operating temp with the fill cap off. Run the rpms up to 1.5-2k rpms several times as you do this to help move air up and out. Keep an eye on the gauge as well while doing this.

Don

When you say, “open the system,” do you mean the WP bleed plug AND the rad cap?

 

[Chase300]

I should add a note that with the AC on my temp holds rock steady...no matter if I'm sitting still in traffic or on the move. However, with AC off temp will move up if sitting still in traffic until fan kicks on then drop back down. So sounds like you have normal operation.

 

[SmackAttack19]

I should add a note that with the AC on my temp holds rock steady...no matter if I'm sitting still in traffic or on the move. However, with AC off temp will move up if sitting still in traffic until fan kicks on then drop back down. So sounds like you have normal operation.

Good insight there, thanks!

 

[Don Fox]

SA19:
To answer your question, yes. If you think that the system is working as designed, then leave it as is and monitor.

Don

 

[SmackAttack19]

As a follow up:
It seems after about a week of driving, the system has stabilized, or burped out whatever it was that was causing the weirdness without me doing anything.
Thanks to all,
J

 

[Urbish]

As a follow up:
It seems after about a week of driving, the system has stabilized, or burped out whatever it was that was causing the weirdness without me doing anything.
Thanks to all,
J

Good to hear. Thanks for following up!