[guistg1]

Found out this is a pretty common problem, the oil cooler/filter housing leaks, either oil or coolant or both. Seems Chrysler made the housing out of plastic and buried the assembly in the valley under the intake. Shouldn't be a problem until the plastic ages and warps starts leaking coolant slowly at first so you can't see it.
Anyway I'll share what I know maybe help someone, there are at least 3 redesigns depending on model year. Dorman makes an aluminum housing it will fit the 2012 BUT you need the oil cooler and oil filter from a 2014. I purchased the cheapest assembly from Amazon for a 2014 ($88 complete with filter cooler and 2 sensors), however
long it will last as it is plastic also. If it goes bad again I will replace with the Dorman unit as I now have the other needed parts.
You do need to remember to use an oil filter for a 2014,
There are a few videos on Youtube on replacing the unit, the 3.6 V-6 are pretty much the same in all the models, the upper intake on the Citadel seemed to be more of a pain, there were a few nuts and studs "hiding".
One thing I didn't address or think about were the knock sensors, believe it or not the are buried under the oil filter housing. When everything leaks it submerges the sensors in oil and coolant. I didn't think to remove the connectors and clean them. I had a check engine light after the repairs for knock sensor but luckily it dried out and hasn't been a problem again, yet.
So if you are loosing oil or coolant and can't find out where, this could be your problem.
If the temp light comes on stop pretty quick because my system was almost empty, the heater would just blow cold air.
Few pictures just for fun

 

[Tin Foil Hat]

Nice post about it. Glad I don't have a V6.

 

[LT.Raven]

As a mopar tech i see these all the time...not soo much in the durangos and grand cherokees but more in the caravan...i personally have a 2011 and i changed mine out for a newer model they can be interchanged from any year right now...a side note though is that the whole unit does not need to be replaced. typically its the the o-rings on the bottom that need to be replaced and can be purchased on their own...for about $30 from the dealer. only if the housing is cracked will it need to be replaced and of course the only way to tell if its cracked or if the rings are bad is to remove the unit.

 

[guistg1]

As a mopar tech i see these all the time...not soo much in the durangos and grand cherokees but more in the caravan...i personally have a 2011 and i changed mine out for a newer model they can be interchanged from any year right now...a side note though is that the whole unit does not need to be replaced. typically its the the o-rings on the bottom that need to be replaced and can be purchased on their own...for about $30 from the dealer. only if the housing is cracked will it need to be replaced and of course the only way to tell if its cracked or if the rings are bad is to remove the unit.

Hard to tell from the pictures and I did not state the problem. But the internal "plate" with the boss and blue oring was warped forcing the outer plate to open up and leak. I broke the boss off taking it apart I don't believe it was broken originally.

 

[ttrometer23]

Hard to tell from the pictures and I did not state the problem. But the internal "plate" with the boss and blue oring was warped forcing the outer plate to open up and leak. I broke the boss off taking it apart I don't believe it was broken originally.

I ordered 2 aftermarket oil coolers neither worked tolerance was off for the upper right main oil input. Mopar part way back ordered. There is no Doman all metal 3rd Gen replacement. Guess best bet is to order the 4th gen that works on the 3rd. Put new o rings on old but couldn't get it to torque to specification so it is leaking. Have to take it off and put in new one.

 

[ttrometer23]

why is this not a recall?

 

[76Aspen]

Recalls, in general, have to be safety related if mandated by the government. If Chrysler/FCA/Stellantis wants to do a recall out of the goodness of their hearts, that is different.

 

[shotcaller]

Had to have mine replaced on my 2014 Wrangler at 75k miles. Cost was $800. Started as small oil leak..then got worse and worse.
Very poor design. All 3.6 will probably need it replaced sooner or later.

 

[JeepinRob]

Had to have mine replaced on my 2014 Wrangler at 75k miles. Cost was $800. Started as small oil leak..then got worse and worse.
Very poor design. All 3.6 will probably need it replaced sooner or later.

This is why Engineers are morons and hated by most of the world. Seriously piss poor design.

 

[boondox77]

The oil filter cap is supposed to be torque to 18 ft lbs, these are prone to leaking, I just changed mine out on a 2014, the seals will leak, but dealer will say if anyone changes your oil they most likely over tighten the oil filter cap and cracked the housing. While mine was apart, I changed the plugs, and intake gaskets. Runs great, no leaks so far.

 

[Duh-rango]

There is an aluminum upgrade that apparently prevents this from happening. There are 2 different kits (926-876 and 926-959) which depend on year so make sure you get the right one. I got one for my 2017 GT (926-959) and plan on doing the swap when I need to change the plugs.

Another 2014 v6 with oil leak/failed oil filter housing

Looks like I hit the lottery with the known issues on my 2014 Limited AWD v6: at 100,000 I had to have the cams and lifters replaced as they were rattling like crazy ($1500), I've had to replace the radiator due to cracked plastic at the top, driver's side, and this week (around 150,000 miles) I...

www.dodgedurango.net

 

[mestile]

There is an aluminum upgrade that apparently prevents this from happening. There are 2 different kits (926-876 and 926-959) which depend on year so make sure you get the right one. I got one for my 2017 GT (926-959) and plan on doing the swap when I need to change the plugs.

Another 2014 v6 with oil leak/failed oil filter housing

Looks like I hit the lottery with the known issues on my 2014 Limited AWD v6: at 100,000 I had to have the cams and lifters replaced as they were rattling like crazy ($1500), I've had to replace the radiator due to cracked plastic at the top, driver's side, and this week (around 150,000 miles) I...

www.dodgedurango.net

Ehi @Duh-rango did you do the swap already? I just got my Dorman 926-959 kit as I think I know I have a coolant leak but still unable to detect it (I put a UV dye in the coolant some time ago and need to trace it with my friend's UV light). Anyway, considering I wasn't able to see ANY leak anywhere in visible parts, I'm assuming it should be somewhere in the rear side of the engine and the old plastic crappy assembly might ne the issue. Anyway I need to remove the plenum etc. as I'll change also the VVL solenoids, due to my other issue of misfire and rough idle with start-stop light etc. So while I'm at it I decide to do this job as well, hopefully I'd be OK after. My question is: if you or anyone reading this thread replaced the part, could you confirm I would not need to put on new sensors in that area? Amazon suggests the Dorman kit is bought with the sensor/switch but I see no point in changing them if tehy work? It seems to me they can be removed from the old part and screwed onto the new? Thanks for any hint!

 

[Duh-rango]

I have not done the swap but as for the sensors...+2016s have the oil temp sensor elsewhere (moved to cylinder head) so the port for it needs to be blocked off for those years.

As for your coolant leak, check on the driver side of the trans as there is a thermal trans heater assembly that tends to leak.

 

[mestile]

I have not done the swap but as for the sensors...+2016s have the oil temp sensor elsewhere (moved to cylinder head) so the port for it needs to be blocked off for those years.

As for your coolant leak, check on the driver side of the trans as there is a thermal trans heater assembly that tends to leak.

Thanks for the info! When you say "needs to be blocked off" I am assuming I would use the same "plug" that probably is on the OEM plastic part then? My only concern would be to understand if with the Dorman kit I have everything I need, or do I need to buy any more parts? I'm trying to understand that upfront to not risk to have the engine half opened and need to WALK somewhere to buy what's missing

 

[Duh-rango]

Thanks for the info! When you say "needs to be blocked off" I am assuming I would use the same "plug" that probably is on the OEM plastic part then? My only concern would be to understand if with the Dorman kit I have everything I need, or do I need to buy any more parts? I'm trying to understand that upfront to not risk to have the engine half opened and need to WALK somewhere to buy what's missing

I had to buy an aluminum plug (3/8" NPT) and I am still on the fence about the oil pressure sensor as I can't find info on the sensor my kit came. I want to make certain it has the right transfer function but the kit came with all the seals, bolts and oil filter to get the job done.

 

[RRack_Attack]

Welp, I replaced the plastic OEM with the newer aluminum on the wife's 2014 Limited Durango. Been a couple years and now i'm back to a giant puddle in the driveway again. I need to look closer, but peeking down there looks like it's puddling up under the intake again. UGH! Guessing o-rings? Need to get a camera down there to try and make sure.