[JeffB]

I have a 2015 Durango R/T bare roof and need a roof rack to haul kayaks. I dont want to spend $500 on a Thule, Rhino, Yakima, etc. so I started looking at the Sportrack, etc. Unfortunately, they don't make one for this car. What is everyone else using in the $150-$200 range?

 

[WhiteRangoRT]

Hi all,

I wanted to post my 2015 Dodge Durango RT Roof Rack project as there was very little info on the internet on this.

First, I wanted a platform, and this exactly what I wanted: Scroll down to the light grey durango. Search rack attack durango roof rack. The light grey durango.

Now, the parts list on their website is incorrect if you want it to look like this. Here are the correct parts:

• RR42102BF Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform (76 x 49) Unassembled
• 11TP72 Thule 72 inch Custom Install Tracks - 1 set
• RRRLT600 Rhino-Rack Quick Mount Leg x4
• RRRLT600H Rhino-Rack Quick Mount Leg x2 (Be sure to ask if you can get the same locking keys for security for all the legs. I ended up getting different keys with the 4 pack and 2 pack. Kind of a pain.
• RRPLHS4 Rhino-Rack Backbone Pioneer Leg Height Spacer
• Instead of the full rail, I only did the sides: RR43144B Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform Side Rails Suits 42102B/42103B/44102B/44103B

The Golden CO location at Rack Attack helped me with this and I am in Tampa, FL. Josh was great if you can get him, he knows the project well and offered me a discount on my order as opposed to buying from Rhino Rack direct. Josh: 303-216-2495. He was very helpful too.

Pointers:
- You should buy one of these.
Marson M39300 RN-1 Rivet Nut Setter W/ #8-32, #10-24, #10-32 Mandrel & Nosepiece (1 PK)


Josh sent me 10-32 Rivnuts that were about an inch long. He also sent me a good hand rivet tool that I used for the first half of the project but I ended up breaking it (you have to use two wrenches- not bad but the Marson rivet tool is so much easier), and luckily had ordered this Rivnut tool he recommended for the second half set of holes. I had to remove the nose piece from the Marson rivnut tool because the rivnuts were too long. I used a flat washer instead of the nose piece and it worked perfectly.

- Tracks and holes. So, intended on using the full 72 inches of track. I precisely set everything, marked my holes, and drilled my first (scary) hole near the sunroof. Furthest front hole on passenger side. I got right through the first layer and then I hit Superman metal. WELL, that's when I started and stopped. I hit a thick impenetrable metal there. I tried several bits, a hammer drill, and my Durango just kept laughing at me. Josh recommended these bits, but I was not going to wait. Search hougen downloads Hougen_Cutter_Chart.pdf

I decided to abandon the first hole. (I know your worst nightmare, but this is why I am posting this). I did not need the first approximately 5-6 inches of front track so cut it down to the next hole in the track. I capped the abandoned hole which you can see in the pics below. (SUCKS- but this is my first time ever doing this).

I was trying to use a 17/64 drill bit to have the rivnuts fit snuggly (for better water protection), but Josh let me know you can go up to 5/16 holes with no problem, which is what I did. All the other holes were pretty painless after that which was a huge relief. Each time I started a new hole I feared the super metal. But no issues.

I drilled 5/16 holes all around ,and driver side was all used with Marson rivnut tool. Now, one thing. Notice on the driver side- front near sunroof- I grabbed something with the rivnut and it pulled the roof down. I was really upset but didn't know what to do. I was too afraid to drill it out and start over. So, word of caution make sure your rivnet feels free as to not grab lower layers of metal that will pull the top layer downwards.

I also had to cut down the track nuts that came with the legs. They did not fit into the Thule 72 inch track. I used a bench grinder and just had to grind them down a little to fit.

They send black RTV silicone with kit which Josh told me to put all over top of rivet including center hole. I screwed 10-32 stainless screws 1 inch long through silicone for good seal.

Lasty, I made a nice lowering system/ and storage in my garage using the Harbor Freight bike lifts if you are interested.

I created my own support beams that fit between the planks of the Rhino Rack. Be sure to strap them in so they cannot move. I used velcro straps to be able to quickly remove. I almost dropped the whole rack when it slid out of control. You'll see what I mean when you lift it.

I'd be happy to help anyone who has questions.

Thanks
G

 

[Neckdeepsux]

Hi all,

I wanted to post my 2015 Dodge Durango RT Roof Rack project as there was very little info on the internet on this.

First, I wanted a platform, and this exactly what I wanted: Scroll down to the light grey durango. Search rack attack durango roof rack. The light grey durango.

Now, the parts list on their website is incorrect if you want it to look like this. Here are the correct parts:

• RR42102BF Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform (76 x 49) Unassembled
• 11TP72 Thule 72 inch Custom Install Tracks - 1 set
• RRRLT600 Rhino-Rack Quick Mount Leg x4
• RRRLT600H Rhino-Rack Quick Mount Leg x2 (Be sure to ask if you can get the same locking keys for security for all the legs. I ended up getting different keys with the 4 pack and 2 pack. Kind of a pain.
• RRPLHS4 Rhino-Rack Backbone Pioneer Leg Height Spacer
• Instead of the full rail, I only did the sides: RR43144B Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform Side Rails Suits 42102B/42103B/44102B/44103B

The Golden CO location at Rack Attack helped me with this and I am in Tampa, FL. Josh was great if you can get him, he knows the project well and offered me a discount on my order as opposed to buying from Rhino Rack direct. Josh: 303-216-2495. He was very helpful too.

Pointers:
- You should buy one of these.
Marson M39300 RN-1 Rivet Nut Setter W/ #8-32, #10-24, #10-32 Mandrel & Nosepiece (1 PK)


Josh sent me 10-32 Rivnuts that were about an inch long. He also sent me a good hand rivet tool that I used for the first half of the project but I ended up breaking it (you have to use two wrenches- not bad but the Marson rivet tool is so much easier), and luckily had ordered this Rivnut tool he recommended for the second half set of holes. I had to remove the nose piece from the Marson rivnut tool because the rivnuts were too long. I used a flat washer instead of the nose piece and it worked perfectly.

- Tracks and holes. So, intended on using the full 72 inches of track. I precisely set everything, marked my holes, and drilled my first (scary) hole near the sunroof. Furthest front hole on passenger side. I got right through the first layer and then I hit Superman metal. WELL, that's when I started and stopped. I hit a thick impenetrable metal there. I tried several bits, a hammer drill, and my Durango just kept laughing at me. Josh recommended these bits, but I was not going to wait. Search hougen downloads Hougen_Cutter_Chart.pdf

I decided to abandon the first hole. (I know your worst nightmare, but this is why I am posting this). I did not need the first approximately 5-6 inches of front track so cut it down to the next hole in the track. I capped the abandoned hole which you can see in the pics below. (SUCKS- but this is my first time ever doing this).

I was trying to use a 17/64 drill bit to have the rivnuts fit snuggly (for better water protection), but Josh let me know you can go up to 5/16 holes with no problem, which is what I did. All the other holes were pretty painless after that which was a huge relief. Each time I started a new hole I feared the super metal. But no issues.

I drilled 5/16 holes all around ,and driver side was all used with Marson rivnut tool. Now, one thing. Notice on the driver side- front near sunroof- I grabbed something with the rivnut and it pulled the roof down. I was really upset but didn't know what to do. I was too afraid to drill it out and start over. So, word of caution make sure your rivnet feels free as to not grab lower layers of metal that will pull the top layer downwards.

I also had to cut down the track nuts that came with the legs. They did not fit into the Thule 72 inch track. I used a bench grinder and just had to grind them down a little to fit.

They send black RTV silicone with kit which Josh told me to put all over top of rivet including center hole. I screwed 10-32 stainless screws 1 inch long through silicone for good seal.

Lasty, I made a nice lowering system/ and storage in my garage using the Harbor Freight bike lifts if you are interested.

I created my own support beams that fit between the planks of the Rhino Rack. Be sure to strap them in so they cannot move. I used velcro straps to be able to quickly remove. I almost dropped the whole rack when it slid out of control. You'll see what I mean when you lift it.

I'd be happy to help anyone who has questions.

Thanks
G

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Looks clean sir! This is exactly what I was looking for to do some cross country trips, but man the idea of drilling into my new car gives me the shivers haha.
Sadly might have to just settle with the soft bottom roof bags