"Big Red"
![]()
2001 Dodge Durango SLT 5.9L
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok so I bought my 2001 Durango SLT with 186k miles on it from a nice family in Chicago. It was bought brand new and garaged it's entire life. I paid $1700 for it. Yeah, I got a good deal. I actually got pulled over just outside of Chicago because I had no plates and as I explained to the cop why I was driving a vehicle without plates - I told him I "stole" it. Wrong choice of words. He looked at me funny at first but quickly understood what I meant... after checking all my credentials of course. Here is a photo of her that same night just moments after getting pulled over.
![]()
So, when I got her home I replaced the driver's side window regulator. A couple weeks later the passenger side went out as well and was also replaced. They seem sluggish though. Not sure why. Also, I did a complete tune-up... was very surprised to learn that Durangos have no replaceable fuel filter. I was very saddened by this. I do run Techron and Seafoam often enough that I hope I'm keeping everything clean. I swear by both. Techron is scientifically proven to be a good fuel system detergent and I use Seafoam because I've seen it in action on older vehicles. It's amazing stuff. I run a half bottle in my fuel and another half bottle in my oil just before and after every oil change. I run Techron as often as I can afford it but try to run it through a tank at least once every two or three tanks, Back to the tun-up though; I changed the plugs to regular OEM style plugs (I usually try to upgrade on my other vehicles but I've learned that these Magnum engines prefer those basic OEM style plugs). I ran the premium Bosch lifetime wires and Duralast Gold cap and rotor kit from AutoZone. Synthetic blend Castrol GTX motor oil with a quart of Lucas oil. I always run a quart of Lucas in everything I own and Synthetic blends are MUCH cheaper than full synthetics with just as much bang for the buck. Don't get me started on the "science" because I'll prove you wrong and have you surfing the web for hours following my sources, lol! Full synthetic just isn't worth the extra money for the .003 increase in durability compared to a blend. Plus I don't care what Anyone says... you still need to change your filter at least every 3k and the way I see it... if I'm going to be down there getting dirty - I might as well change the oil too if I'm changing the filter. Dino starts to break down at 3k miles. I just change it every 3k and don't take any chances. These manufacturers recommending 12k oil changes....? Wow! Not me. I'll waste another $25 and be safe. That's why all my vehicles have high miles and don't leak oil or burn oil and they run great. Changing oil properly (every 3k) is the #1 most important thing you can do to keep your engine running. But hey... to each their own. So yeah... I did a full tune-up. I even replaced the gas cap just for shits and giggles.
It was totally stock besides a high output/flow catalytic converter. It had no problems besides a check-engine light for the front o2 sensor and that driver's side window regulator. BUT after replacing the o2 sensor and installing a single in/single out flowmaster... I ended up with another code. I was told I'd have to deal with it due to the exhaust setup and back pressure. BUT I thought to myself... it's able to blow a lot of air OUT but it's not sucking enough IN. Probably why the code kept popping on. So I installed a cold-air intake. Code disappeared. Here's a pic of my $30 cold-air intake setup! I know there are other fixes - but this made more sense to me and I wanted the cold-air intake anyway!
![]()
I did end up with another code though... I forget the actual number but it's the code for a cylinder 4 misfire. I don't feel it when driving her down the road but it's noticeable at idling speeds for sure. She's burning oil and my mpg has dropped big time. I've ran a compression check, spark check and even replaced the injector. A good friend of mind thinks it's a bad valve. Maybe. But I know those shitty stock plenum intake gaskets can cause all sorts of weird issues and when I ran the foamy kind of Seafoam directly into the intake... it killed the light for a little while and eventually came back on. If it was a valve the light would never have shut off. I think the Seafoam cleaned everything up inside there and helped regulate pressure thus killing the bad code. Then when the grime built back up and the seafoam was all burned up... the light popped back on. I've used Hughes' repair kits before on an old 318 that had crazy ridiculous problems that didn't even make sense.... once we did the "repair" - it solved Everything. Those guys at Hughes really have something and they're super nice on the phone and in person as well. I'm going to swap mine out - worst case... I still have the problem but I'll still feel like I gave my engine another upgrade! Going to replace that stupid metal inlet valve/hose and the thermostat while I'm down there as well. And again, just for shits and giggles... figure I'll replace the coil as well. I bought the AutoZone Gold with the lifetime as well. Will be a fun project!
Moving on.... I put the biggest tires on there that would fit without rubbing or alterations. I wanted an aggressive tread pattern but nothing too crazy (or expensive) so I went with the Cooper RT's 10-plys. They look great and should last me quite awhile. Anyone have any experience with these personally? I got them because they were affordable and a buddy of mine had the exact same ones on his D. His were three years old and they still looked new - and this was his daily driver too!
After being up underneath her changing tires, I found some flaws. Nothing horrible or life threatening but it was time to change ball joints. They uppers weren't "bad" but the lowers were looking rough. Maybe it was the other way around. I can't remember, but I changed both anyways. She could use new tie-rod ends and an alignment but she'll be fine for now. Alignment is pretty darn accurate. I also went ahead and replaced the front brake hardware with new lifetime Gold pads and rotors from Autozone. Drums looked good in the back but I replaced the hardware and shoes anyways just because. While I was down there I decided that shocks would be a good idea as well. At almost 200k I'm sure she appreciates them... the ones we pulled off were original. Surprisingly though, she didn't ride much smoother. I did buy a stiffer shock though for the occasional hauling I do.
Next I installed my sound system with a basic JVC head unit recessed in the dash rather than sticking out an inch (hate that!!) along with a voltage booster, a 1k watt Massive amp and dual 15" Massive RGW subs in a slot ported box and a 50w/12v capaciter. I'm pushing about 4 volts and running a steady 700 watts and they pound. Most folks don't realize that you can get a LOT of sound out of a cheaper setup as long as your "line-out" voltage is high. My booster/Eq goes up to 8v. But that will burn shit up. I like to keep it at about half that... same with amp. That way you can beat the shit out of them and never have to worry about blowing anything up. Most people can't believe I only have the 1000w amp and the mid-grade 15" subs. I blow away guys with twice that.... but that's because they're not running booster/EQ's and most stock stereo decks only push 1.5v. If you want 3v - you'll be paying over a grand for the deck. Boosters are under a hundred bucks. So yeah... sound system kicks ass.
I ordered and installed a grill guard which you can see in my photos.
Next, I installed underglow lights. I couldn't decide on a color to accent the Red Durango (Did I mention I hate red!? I just don't like the look. Maybe its because all our cars growing up were red. Lame.) so I went with a multi-color flexible LED setup. I usually just let it run on "cycle" mode where it just runs through all the different patterns and colors at random. Here she is shortly after installing the underglow LED kit with the current setting on blue.
![]()
Then, I wrecked the poor girl. The grill guard saved Big Red.... she would have been totaled. But because of the grill guard, it only dented the bumper (which was a clean dent because it was easily popped out with heat and with no evidence of there ever being any damage). It hit hard enough that it popped the tire off the wheel. It dent the condenser in a bit but it survived as well. It took out a headlight and I was forced to readjust the hinges on my hood - but... she turned out ok for being slammed into a ditch at 40mph. If not for the grill guard catching the way it did on the other end of the ditch.... she would have ended up on her side. The tow truck almost pulled her over on her side too. It was crazy. I may have been showing off (yes, I was sober) and it was snowing and slick. I wasn't using the 4x4... I was having fun. I tried to pull out of the "bad idea" at the last second but it was too late and my gut was correct in telling me that the mound of slush was a LOT deeper than it looked. It could have been a LOT worse. It prevented the air bags from blowing (thank God!) but of course if it was a bad accident... I'd have really wanted those air bags - I'm sure. But anyway, it totaled the grill guard and did $3k of damage to the truck. It also bent the frame. It didn't hurt her structurally - but the front frame mounts were bent in on the one side thus preventing me from putting a new grill guard on without some modification or serious repairs. These aren't the best pics, but you can kind of see the dented bumper. Also below is a shot of the bent frame rail.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Since then, I've repaired everything but the frame. I have a new grill guard but it's not on yet for obvious reasons. I just don't want to spend $600 to fix something that's not hurting anything and can't even be seen. So I'm going to pull out what I can and then use some spacers to make the grill guard fit on there correctly. I'm sure it will be "soft" if I have another collision in that spot again... but I don't intend to do so, lol!
I've tried two different sets of halo headlights.... the first set was junk. Poor mounting brackets. Crappy wiring and horrible moisture build-up... but they sure looked cool. The second set is awesome! No moisture. Wiring is simple. They fit perfectly! No aiming was needed. I did have a hard time hooking up actual HID's but that's because I used HIDs for hi and lo beams... and they're not made for hi beams so some slight modding was needed. Nothing major. They look great! The only problem is that they take FOREVER to warm up... like.... several minutes! I'm looking into it. Here's a photo of the headlights I bought. Will post pics of them installed asap.
View attachment 16510
I also installed halo fog lights with HID lights in them as well. I used relays and harnesses for the hi/lo beams but for the fog lights I just wired them in directly with the ballast. No flickering problems or anything but they too take way to long to warm up. They also took more fab work. For whatever reason they weren't a direct bolt-on even though they were listed as such. I had to dremel out part of the factory clips that hold them in. Not sure if "clip" is the correct word. But the bottom line is that the HID wiring stuck out too far and I had to make room. No big deal. The real worry was that the foglight housing itself was too small for the HID. Of course, the bulb fit fine... but the plate on the back that seals it shut could not be reinstalled due to the new wiring placement. I worry about the elements getting in there.... so I just sealed it as best as I could and then covered the hell out of it with the liquid tape. We'll see how it holds up in a few months. Here is the set I bought.
View attachment 16508
I installed new taillights. Nothing special. Clear lenses with chrome backings. I decided against LEDs for now but I'll install them eventually. I did have some moisture build up so I let them dry out and then I resealed all the connectors with liquid tape. I like it better than gasket maker/sealant. It's cheaper too and much easier to peal off when needed but creates just as good of a seal as any other. Needless to say - no more moisture.
Oy! I also bought some side-steps (or nerf bars - whatever you wanna call'em!) and here's a photo of the ones I bought. Again, will post installed photos later. Wanna get her detailed before I go showing her off!
View attachment 16509
2001 Dodge Durango SLT 5.9L
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok so I bought my 2001 Durango SLT with 186k miles on it from a nice family in Chicago. It was bought brand new and garaged it's entire life. I paid $1700 for it. Yeah, I got a good deal. I actually got pulled over just outside of Chicago because I had no plates and as I explained to the cop why I was driving a vehicle without plates - I told him I "stole" it. Wrong choice of words. He looked at me funny at first but quickly understood what I meant... after checking all my credentials of course. Here is a photo of her that same night just moments after getting pulled over.
So, when I got her home I replaced the driver's side window regulator. A couple weeks later the passenger side went out as well and was also replaced. They seem sluggish though. Not sure why. Also, I did a complete tune-up... was very surprised to learn that Durangos have no replaceable fuel filter. I was very saddened by this. I do run Techron and Seafoam often enough that I hope I'm keeping everything clean. I swear by both. Techron is scientifically proven to be a good fuel system detergent and I use Seafoam because I've seen it in action on older vehicles. It's amazing stuff. I run a half bottle in my fuel and another half bottle in my oil just before and after every oil change. I run Techron as often as I can afford it but try to run it through a tank at least once every two or three tanks, Back to the tun-up though; I changed the plugs to regular OEM style plugs (I usually try to upgrade on my other vehicles but I've learned that these Magnum engines prefer those basic OEM style plugs). I ran the premium Bosch lifetime wires and Duralast Gold cap and rotor kit from AutoZone. Synthetic blend Castrol GTX motor oil with a quart of Lucas oil. I always run a quart of Lucas in everything I own and Synthetic blends are MUCH cheaper than full synthetics with just as much bang for the buck. Don't get me started on the "science" because I'll prove you wrong and have you surfing the web for hours following my sources, lol! Full synthetic just isn't worth the extra money for the .003 increase in durability compared to a blend. Plus I don't care what Anyone says... you still need to change your filter at least every 3k and the way I see it... if I'm going to be down there getting dirty - I might as well change the oil too if I'm changing the filter. Dino starts to break down at 3k miles. I just change it every 3k and don't take any chances. These manufacturers recommending 12k oil changes....? Wow! Not me. I'll waste another $25 and be safe. That's why all my vehicles have high miles and don't leak oil or burn oil and they run great. Changing oil properly (every 3k) is the #1 most important thing you can do to keep your engine running. But hey... to each their own. So yeah... I did a full tune-up. I even replaced the gas cap just for shits and giggles.
It was totally stock besides a high output/flow catalytic converter. It had no problems besides a check-engine light for the front o2 sensor and that driver's side window regulator. BUT after replacing the o2 sensor and installing a single in/single out flowmaster... I ended up with another code. I was told I'd have to deal with it due to the exhaust setup and back pressure. BUT I thought to myself... it's able to blow a lot of air OUT but it's not sucking enough IN. Probably why the code kept popping on. So I installed a cold-air intake. Code disappeared. Here's a pic of my $30 cold-air intake setup! I know there are other fixes - but this made more sense to me and I wanted the cold-air intake anyway!
I did end up with another code though... I forget the actual number but it's the code for a cylinder 4 misfire. I don't feel it when driving her down the road but it's noticeable at idling speeds for sure. She's burning oil and my mpg has dropped big time. I've ran a compression check, spark check and even replaced the injector. A good friend of mind thinks it's a bad valve. Maybe. But I know those shitty stock plenum intake gaskets can cause all sorts of weird issues and when I ran the foamy kind of Seafoam directly into the intake... it killed the light for a little while and eventually came back on. If it was a valve the light would never have shut off. I think the Seafoam cleaned everything up inside there and helped regulate pressure thus killing the bad code. Then when the grime built back up and the seafoam was all burned up... the light popped back on. I've used Hughes' repair kits before on an old 318 that had crazy ridiculous problems that didn't even make sense.... once we did the "repair" - it solved Everything. Those guys at Hughes really have something and they're super nice on the phone and in person as well. I'm going to swap mine out - worst case... I still have the problem but I'll still feel like I gave my engine another upgrade! Going to replace that stupid metal inlet valve/hose and the thermostat while I'm down there as well. And again, just for shits and giggles... figure I'll replace the coil as well. I bought the AutoZone Gold with the lifetime as well. Will be a fun project!
Moving on.... I put the biggest tires on there that would fit without rubbing or alterations. I wanted an aggressive tread pattern but nothing too crazy (or expensive) so I went with the Cooper RT's 10-plys. They look great and should last me quite awhile. Anyone have any experience with these personally? I got them because they were affordable and a buddy of mine had the exact same ones on his D. His were three years old and they still looked new - and this was his daily driver too!
After being up underneath her changing tires, I found some flaws. Nothing horrible or life threatening but it was time to change ball joints. They uppers weren't "bad" but the lowers were looking rough. Maybe it was the other way around. I can't remember, but I changed both anyways. She could use new tie-rod ends and an alignment but she'll be fine for now. Alignment is pretty darn accurate. I also went ahead and replaced the front brake hardware with new lifetime Gold pads and rotors from Autozone. Drums looked good in the back but I replaced the hardware and shoes anyways just because. While I was down there I decided that shocks would be a good idea as well. At almost 200k I'm sure she appreciates them... the ones we pulled off were original. Surprisingly though, she didn't ride much smoother. I did buy a stiffer shock though for the occasional hauling I do.
Next I installed my sound system with a basic JVC head unit recessed in the dash rather than sticking out an inch (hate that!!) along with a voltage booster, a 1k watt Massive amp and dual 15" Massive RGW subs in a slot ported box and a 50w/12v capaciter. I'm pushing about 4 volts and running a steady 700 watts and they pound. Most folks don't realize that you can get a LOT of sound out of a cheaper setup as long as your "line-out" voltage is high. My booster/Eq goes up to 8v. But that will burn shit up. I like to keep it at about half that... same with amp. That way you can beat the shit out of them and never have to worry about blowing anything up. Most people can't believe I only have the 1000w amp and the mid-grade 15" subs. I blow away guys with twice that.... but that's because they're not running booster/EQ's and most stock stereo decks only push 1.5v. If you want 3v - you'll be paying over a grand for the deck. Boosters are under a hundred bucks. So yeah... sound system kicks ass.
I ordered and installed a grill guard which you can see in my photos.
Next, I installed underglow lights. I couldn't decide on a color to accent the Red Durango (Did I mention I hate red!? I just don't like the look. Maybe its because all our cars growing up were red. Lame.) so I went with a multi-color flexible LED setup. I usually just let it run on "cycle" mode where it just runs through all the different patterns and colors at random. Here she is shortly after installing the underglow LED kit with the current setting on blue.
Then, I wrecked the poor girl. The grill guard saved Big Red.... she would have been totaled. But because of the grill guard, it only dented the bumper (which was a clean dent because it was easily popped out with heat and with no evidence of there ever being any damage). It hit hard enough that it popped the tire off the wheel. It dent the condenser in a bit but it survived as well. It took out a headlight and I was forced to readjust the hinges on my hood - but... she turned out ok for being slammed into a ditch at 40mph. If not for the grill guard catching the way it did on the other end of the ditch.... she would have ended up on her side. The tow truck almost pulled her over on her side too. It was crazy. I may have been showing off (yes, I was sober) and it was snowing and slick. I wasn't using the 4x4... I was having fun. I tried to pull out of the "bad idea" at the last second but it was too late and my gut was correct in telling me that the mound of slush was a LOT deeper than it looked. It could have been a LOT worse. It prevented the air bags from blowing (thank God!) but of course if it was a bad accident... I'd have really wanted those air bags - I'm sure. But anyway, it totaled the grill guard and did $3k of damage to the truck. It also bent the frame. It didn't hurt her structurally - but the front frame mounts were bent in on the one side thus preventing me from putting a new grill guard on without some modification or serious repairs. These aren't the best pics, but you can kind of see the dented bumper. Also below is a shot of the bent frame rail.
Since then, I've repaired everything but the frame. I have a new grill guard but it's not on yet for obvious reasons. I just don't want to spend $600 to fix something that's not hurting anything and can't even be seen. So I'm going to pull out what I can and then use some spacers to make the grill guard fit on there correctly. I'm sure it will be "soft" if I have another collision in that spot again... but I don't intend to do so, lol!
I've tried two different sets of halo headlights.... the first set was junk. Poor mounting brackets. Crappy wiring and horrible moisture build-up... but they sure looked cool. The second set is awesome! No moisture. Wiring is simple. They fit perfectly! No aiming was needed. I did have a hard time hooking up actual HID's but that's because I used HIDs for hi and lo beams... and they're not made for hi beams so some slight modding was needed. Nothing major. They look great! The only problem is that they take FOREVER to warm up... like.... several minutes! I'm looking into it. Here's a photo of the headlights I bought. Will post pics of them installed asap.
View attachment 16510
I also installed halo fog lights with HID lights in them as well. I used relays and harnesses for the hi/lo beams but for the fog lights I just wired them in directly with the ballast. No flickering problems or anything but they too take way to long to warm up. They also took more fab work. For whatever reason they weren't a direct bolt-on even though they were listed as such. I had to dremel out part of the factory clips that hold them in. Not sure if "clip" is the correct word. But the bottom line is that the HID wiring stuck out too far and I had to make room. No big deal. The real worry was that the foglight housing itself was too small for the HID. Of course, the bulb fit fine... but the plate on the back that seals it shut could not be reinstalled due to the new wiring placement. I worry about the elements getting in there.... so I just sealed it as best as I could and then covered the hell out of it with the liquid tape. We'll see how it holds up in a few months. Here is the set I bought.
View attachment 16508
I installed new taillights. Nothing special. Clear lenses with chrome backings. I decided against LEDs for now but I'll install them eventually. I did have some moisture build up so I let them dry out and then I resealed all the connectors with liquid tape. I like it better than gasket maker/sealant. It's cheaper too and much easier to peal off when needed but creates just as good of a seal as any other. Needless to say - no more moisture.
Oy! I also bought some side-steps (or nerf bars - whatever you wanna call'em!) and here's a photo of the ones I bought. Again, will post installed photos later. Wanna get her detailed before I go showing her off!
View attachment 16509
Future jobs....? Of course! Lots more to come!
- Installing a Hughes plenum/gasket kit tomorrow
- Installing a back-up camera VERY soon... I haul a flat-bed car-hauler all the time as well as my smaller bike trailer and an enclosed trailer for my band equipment. I never have help and the two bigger trailers require pinpoint accuracy... you can't just "get close" and then wiggle the trailer over. Needless to say, I have some nice scratches on my back bumper that I'm not too fond of. No more. I'm used to having my big 92 D250 dooly with the Cummins Turbo Diesel in it... it had a big beat-up chrome bumper on it that could (and often did) take a beating. Funny thing is... I could aim that big beast a lot easier than my D. Could be just habit though. Haven't had the D very long yet.
- Would like to add some SUPER bright backup lights... like, replacing the backup bulb with a headlight style bulb! And/or installing some hidden white sport lights for the rear.... they can come in handy for all sorts of situations including (but not limited to) "spotting/flashing" that douche bag a half mile behind you that feels the need to run his "brights" because well... he's a douche and he's blinding you and brake-checking is illegal. Well, so are rear spot lights if they're used in this sort of fashion BUT... it is what it is and I'll risk it.
- Would like to find a 1.5 din DVD/GPS/Stereo for the D with a decent built-in EQ at an affordable price. Very hard to come by. Must also have Bluetooth. Can't seem to find one with everything I need!
- I need to get the front windows tinted to match the back. It's very annoying. Just looks silly. Stupid old-school laws.
- Oy... my blower motor resistor keeps blowing. I've replaced it twice in the last couple of months. I've got it narrowed down to a bad blower motor. So, I need to change the blower motor and then the resistor again and see what happens.
- I've heard horror stories regarding the Durango transmissions... two things to avoid those problems. Keep the fluids changed and get a tranny cooler. So, I will be getting the trans cooler asap.
- Replace all the interior bulbs (including the dash bulbs like the check-engine-light) with LEDs. Bored with the green color... going to see if I can make everything blue.
- Overhead console and/or moon roof someday
- Leather Seats (preferably heated) someday
- Lund Visor (windshield visor) as soon as I find one affordable
- Lift Kit (not sure how high yet or which kind of lift... but thinking 2" body lift and maybe 1" spring lift) No rush for this, just would be nice!
- I want some bling. I'm a sucker. I like my meaty off-road and all-terrains... but man, something about having an 18 to 20" set of chrome wheels with just enough meat on the tires to call it a tire... I love it. I just hate that it's become the stereotypical gang-banger thing to do. I usually surprise people with my sound system.... they expect a lot of bass (which I have, but it's not electronic, hip=hop, rap or dance... it's all ROCK baby! I think some 18's would be plenty and still give enough room for some meat on the tire so that she doesn't ride like crap.
I'll add more photos and update this post as I go. Obviously, I still have a lot to do.
And I still have more to post to get caught up with everything I've done... sorry though... this is the first time that I had a project and failed to take photos along the way. I mean, obviously I took photos... but usually I take photos during the processes and jobs. Just in case others have questions or whatever. Most everything I've done though has been pretty easy although I should have posted a "how to" on the HID's. THAT was a project! Ugh! I'll take more photos when I start my plenum intake gasket replacement.
