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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks, 2018 R/T with Beats. I have a few questions:
  • Is there a wiring diagram from the OEM amplifier?
  • Can REM wire be tapped from the OEM amplifier inputs?
  • Where/which wires going into the factory amp can get me full range signal to my powered sub that will be installed? I can work with either high level or low level inputs, not a huge concern for me either way if it nets me full range signal.
Appreciate your help.
For a little background, and before I get roasted -
I'm not an audio noob but with a kid now, I don't have as much time to mess around with car audio.

My Altima build (which is engine swapped etc. etc.) includes the following:
Pioneer Car Play Double Din
Tru Technologies SSLD6i
Pioneer Premier Class A Amp
Dynaudio System 360 with custom kicks for the midrange and tweeter.
2 15" Boston Acoustics subs mounted free air with a shark audio SHKAMP2500d.
 

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Hey folks, 2018 R/T with Beats. I have a few questions:
  • Is there a wiring diagram from the OEM amplifier?
  • Can REM wire be tapped from the OEM amplifier inputs?
  • Where/which wires going into the factory amp can get me full range signal to my powered sub that will be installed? I can work with either high level or low level inputs, not a huge concern for me either way if it nets me full range signal.
Appreciate your help.
For a little background, and before I get roasted -
I'm not an audio noob but with a kid now, I don't have as much time to mess around with car audio.

My Altima build (which is engine swapped etc. etc.) includes the following:
Pioneer Car Play Double Din
Tru Technologies SSLD6i
Pioneer Premier Class A Amp
Dynaudio System 360 with custom kicks for the midrange and tweeter.
2 15" Boston Acoustics subs mounted free air with a shark audio SHKAMP2500d.
I'm running the pac audio AP4-CH41 (I have a a 2014). It is a plug and play solution for getting rca and remote turn on. All you have to do is pull the radio and plug in the t-harness that comes with the interface.


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Discussion Starter #3
I'm running the pac audio AP4-CH41 (I have a a 2014). It is a plug and play solution for getting rca and remote turn on. All you have to do is pull the radio and plug in the t-harness that comes with the interface.


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Thank you AXPTank. My only concern is that I will be spending on this adapter than I would on the amplified sub and everything else going into the car. I remember the days when you could buy a PAC adapter and do a little tapping and get exactly what you needed. I am still thinking of going that route but either with high level or low level inputs. Just would like to see details on the wiring.
 

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Thank you AXPTank. My only concern is that I will be spending on this adapter than I would on the amplified sub and everything else going into the car. I remember the days when you could buy a PAC adapter and do a little tapping and get exactly what you needed. I am still thinking of going that route but either with high level or low level inputs. Just would like to see details on the wiring.
Fair enough. I personally went that route cuz I didn't want to tap into my wiring. Also what is nice you can have complete control of your audio signal going to the amp. And it has from and rear outputs if you decide to do door speakers down the road with a 4 channel amp.

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Discussion Starter #5
Fair enough. I personally went that route cuz I didn't want to tap into my wiring. Also what is nice you can have complete control of your audio signal going to the amp. And it has from and rear outputs if you decide to do door speakers down the road with a 4 channel amp.

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Trust me if it was my car I would have already bought that adapter. I would have gutted and replaced everything Lol.
 

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Trust me if it was my car I would have already bought that adapter. I would have gutted and replaced everything Lol.
To each their own. When the girlfriend wanted her old system in her new car (2015 journey) we went with the pac piece. I've done the high level converters before but they don't sound as good as what this does. Post an update on what you end up doing.

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Discussion Starter #7
To each their own. When the girlfriend wanted her old system in her new car (2015 journey) we went with the pac piece. I've done the high level converters before but they don't sound as good as what this does. Post an update on what you end up doing.

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I understand. If the signal is tapped correctly pre-amp vs. post you should have a good clean signal going to the amp.
 

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If you go with a line level adapter you will need to go post amp, so will not be the cleanest signal. If you look at the manual for the PAC amp integration harness you can see the colors for each wire, and for at least on my '16 were all correct. Front woofers should give you the best signal for a sub. Lanson on here found that tapping the sub output made for a quickly clipping signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you go with a line level adapter you will need to go post amp, so will not be the cleanest signal. If you look at the manual for the PAC amp integration harness you can see the colors for each wire, and for at least on my '16 were all correct. Front woofers should give you the best signal for a sub. Lanson on here found that tapping the sub output made for a quickly clipping signal.
Thanks, what’s the concern with using signal pre-amplification?


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Sure thing man, good luck! Crutchfield also has the amplifier T harness I linked above for cheaper as well if you decide to nab it.
 
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