BUMMER? It'd be nice if the gauges were just going bad, or a sending unit on the fritz, but it sounds to me, as you've desribed the circumstances that your oil pump has gone south, this is a death warrent for the motor unfortunatly. faint ticking, won't turn over. all terrible signs of engine damage. best of luck to you,

Ron

 

hmm? doesn't sound good?

There's nothing that would cause the engine to stall due to low oil pressure other than a mechanical failure (there's nothing that tells the PCM to shut the engine down)? what does "wouldn't even crank over" mean? engine wouldn't catch, or engine wouldn't even turn?

?tom

 

Well if you did do all that driving with zero pressure, it really should have failed (siezed.) I'd be suspect if it hadn't. Do you know the shop and I assume they checked it with a mechanical sensor. Get a mechanical gauge on it and or replace the sensor if it hasn't been done?

 

hmm? doesn't sound good?

There's nothing that would cause the engine to stall due to low oil pressure other than a mechanical failure (there's nothing that tells the PCM to shut the engine down)? what does "wouldn't even crank over" mean? engine wouldn't catch, or engine wouldn't even turn?

?tom

Engine wouldn't turn over.

 

Well if you did do all that driving with zero pressure, it really should have failed (siezed.) I'd be suspect if it hadn't. Do you know the shop and I assume they checked it with a mechanical sensor. Get a mechanical gauge on it and or replace the sensor if it hasn't been done?

No I don't know the shop. All they wrote on the receipt is that they noticed a ticking in the lower end of the motor, and recommended opening things up to see what was up. They told me a replacement is what I needed, but it was drivable for now.
So as far as the mechanical sensor you speak of, I don't know if they used one.

 

The mechanical sensor they speak of is a mechanical oil pressure gauge
Does the motor crank now? If not its probably seized if it cranks bring it elsewhere for another diagnosis
My guess is the oil pickup is gunked up.
If it has Rod Knock the inevitable is near
Good luck keep us posted on you progress
Steve
DOC Pres

 

The mechanical sensor they speak of is a mechanical oil pressure gauge
Does the motor crank now? If not its probably seized if it cranks bring it elsewhere for another diagnosis
My guess is the oil pickup is gunked up.
If it has Rod Knock the inevitable is near
Good luck keep us posted on you progress
Steve
DOC Pres

Yes, It runs, and drives right now. When I start up the Durango, the pressure gage reads normal. As of right now, the pressure gage reads normal when driving. When I come to a stop at a light, the gage drops to 0. Then when I take off and accelerate, the gage goes back to normal.

 

That happened in one of our work Dodge vans 5.9 as well
It needed a little engine flushing had about 150 k on clock
If the compression test checks out my guess is the pick up is clogged up and oil isn't getting picked up all the time and you're sure the oil is fresh and full.
Look at it this way if you try the flush and it doesn't work you already knew you had a lot of miles on that D
Steve
DOC Pres

 

That happened in one of our work Dodge vans 5.9 as well
It needed a little engine flushing had about 150 k on clock
If the compression test checks out my guess is the pick up is clogged up and oil isn't getting picked up all the time and you're sure the oil is fresh and full.
Look at it this way if you try the flush and it doesn't work you already knew you had a lot of miles on that D
Steve
DOC Pres

The oil was changed 3 weeks ago, and a little overfilled, not much though. Should I take it to my mechanic, and have him do a flush? Has to be cheaper than a new motor. :mrgreen:

 

It can't hurt at this point.
A good engine flush and some real good oil and quality filter may give it some addittional time with you
The oil pressure dropping when coming to a stop and then going back to normal is usually a low oil condition or oil pickup problem
Steve
DOC Pres

 

what does "wouldn't even crank over" mean? engine wouldn't catch, or engine wouldn't even turn?

?tom

Engine wouldn't turn over.

If the engine wouldn't turn, either you have an electrical problem or the engine seized. If the engine has seized, even temporarily, it's rebuild time - your bearings are shot. This may also cause your oil pressure to drop to nothing at idle, because the bearing clearances are now so huge that the pump can't pump enough oil to hold pressure.

?tom

 

It can't hurt at this point.
A good engine flush and some real good oil and quality filter may give it some addittional time with you
The oil pressure dropping when coming to a stop and then going back to normal is usually a low oil condition or oil pickup problem
Steve
DOC Pres

Well, at this point even a few extra months would be good. Gives me some time to look for a new truck. What oil and filter would you recommend?

Thanks,
Bill

 

Remember that our oil gauge reads lower at idle than when running, could the sending unit just be bad. Check your pressure with a good mechanical gauge and see what you get then make your decisions.

 

Just a good quality oil and anything but a fram filter
Steve
DOC Pres

 

Just a good quality oil and anything but a fram filter
Steve
DOC Pres

Anything but a cheap-o orange Fram. The TG and EG are made different but you're totally right about the base one.

 

Thanks a ton to all you guys.
Bill

 

Could he have a plenum leak issue?

 

The Fram Tough Gard is made differently and can be used as a reliable filter? for now.

Why I say, "for now" is because if they (Fram) are willing to produce inferior filters too, how long will they go making a good without without changes in the manufacturing process. And, do you want to be the guy to get one of their "newly" redesigned filters without them telling anyone that it's newly (ie cheaper junk) redesigned?

If they'll produce all the rest as cheap junk, how long can they justify to themselves the processes used on the only good one?

Instead of worrying about all that, just use a different brand and forget about the orange kind. Oranges are better uses for breakfast.

JMHO,

IndyDurango

 

The Mopar OEM filter is a fine choice, I believe its made by purilator, and its available at your local wal-mart for around $4- other than that, I've used napa gold, or wix. they're one in the same, and a fine choice as well.

Ron

 

Just had my mechanic do an engine oil system flush, new oil, and OEM filter. Oil pressure gage has been working fine. The ticking is minor. I figure a little engine noise would be typical with so many miles.
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

You may be VERY lucky on this one if you're running fine now. Good news! In general, if you ever see your oil pressure go to 0, just turn it off and get a tow. Nobody wants the hassle but you can kill a good engine in minutes.

Even though you did the flush, and now have new oil and filter, I'd do one more oil + filter change at maybe 500-1000 miles. Just one last step to make sure things are clean and clear. By the way, which engine is it?

 

Exactly I agree do another changeout at 500 miles or so to get any more of the travelling **** out of there
Ticking and Knocking are 2 different sounds
Steve
DOC Pres

 

It's the 5.2 liter engine. I'll do the oil change at 500 miles.
Is there any type of engine oil additive for high mileage motors, that actually work?

 

I wouldn't add anything other than the fresh filter and the fresh oil
Steve
DOC Pres

 

I ran my Dynasty for 145k after the tick started 175k total. I'd add rislone once in a while and the tick would go away.

That tick should br traced down. But it could just be a bad lifter that has it's oil chamber plugged so it won't fill completely.