Since you replaced your battery did you check that the chassis ground in that compartment was tight and well-grounded? Have you pulled the panel below the positive jump start terminal to make sure everything is tight in there? That panel has large fuses in it that most people don't realize is there. I would also look at the modules in the kick panels for tight connections too. I don't know which modules those are (most of the acronyms for them baffle me) but they could be worth looking at.
Who wants to be a contestant on today's "Is it the BCM or the PCM" show?
So I've had a few posts about some electrical gremlins of late. I finally got some codes that stuck, and I finally tracked down a real code reader, and I have the following from what is being reported as the ABS System (Antilock brakes...Hmm). Now my voltage is just upward of 15VDC on the EVIC, and high 14's measured on an actual voltmeter and on an el-cheapo tablet-like scope. I have some questions/comments inline if anyone wants to hazard an answer/response 
C2101-17 - Battery Voltage Too High - Current Voltage Above Threshold (Is this literally the battery and only the battery, not the alternator?)
C212A-17 - System Voltage - Circuit Voltage Above Threshold (This feels like it would be the alternator/charging system as well as the battery. Whatever voltage was on the circuit feeding the thing that was reporting the fault?)
U0100-00 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM (Maybe this is the indicator that it's the PCM?)
U0402-00 - Implausible Data Received from TCM (Just how implausible. 600 horsepower is fairly implausible for a 5.7L R/T stock. Of course "Hello, World" is also implausible as is a binary encoded version of Macbeth.)
U0401-00 - Implausible Data Received from ECM/PCM (This also points to maybe the PCM?)
U0403-00 - Implausible Data Received from T-Case (Same as U0402-00)
C121C-00 - Torque Request Signal Denied (oof, DENIED)
Who wants to venture a guess as to what's busted? Is it the PCM? The BCM? Or is a CAN bus toasty/shorted/grounded either in wiring or in some busted controller? My other, previously mentioned symptoms are the persistent battery idiot light and the persistent "low voltage" notice on the EVIC. When we were reading codes, the EVIC displayed the oft-seen "Service Shifter" notice. Also often, the windshield wipers (front) will make a few passes and then stop. Formerly, there were some intermittent headlights coupled with intermittent dashboard display and intermittent Radio/HVAC events (basically seemed like the truck was going to reboot) which happened most often during high throttle situations (I'm like 550+ AWHP. not sure exactly where it's at these days. It's not a LOT of power, but its a lot more power than stock lol). I should probably add that this all started shortly after I suffered like a 2 or 3 day outage of the entire center stack as well as the power door locks and windows on the driver's side and the seat. There were some other things like the passenger door locks, but that window worked (From the passenger door). After doing a battery removal/circuit discharge, it was still not working for a few days. It just started working one day, but after this I'd somehow lost either the gear or actuator on the driver's side hvac damper or the control thereof. Shortly thereafter, these gremlins started, so the first steps were removing the battery, having it test "Charge, Good" but being OEM and 9 years old, replacing it anyway with a DIe Hard Platinum AGM h7. Finally, I did remove and replace the center console and the associated connections, checking each of the 2 ground straps and the connectors themselves for any issues based on the whole BCM being back there and the Service Shifter warnings as well as other threads on this forum showing this type of thing.
That bit about the AC damper door actuator seems unrelated, but is it?
The driver's side vents only blow hot air. The passengers are fine as is the rear. Maybe if I check the condition of the driver's side actuator and gear (sigh its hard to extract due to the torx bit and the clearance from what I see on youtube), I can perhaps identify if there is fault in the BCM since I presume that servo is under the jurisdiction of the BCM and solely the BCM? Or is there some HVAC controller that's separate (and not reporting a code?).
Finally, PCM or a BCM replacement, those are both going to require dealer assistance to stamp my VIN into the device, right? I also, obviously, have a custom tune, and the truck may not even run at all or may self-destruct the engine with a factory tune. It's got a supercharger and injectors and a 6.4L block with 9.5:1 pistons. Who knows what a stock fuel map would do to the engine? But I believe I'd have to flash my junk back to stock so that the diablosport intune can pair up with the replacement PCM. Then I have take a new original backup and get my tuner to re-apply the customizations to that new base/stock tune. Or will the currently loaded tunes still be valid and effective to flash on the replacement PCM? Hell, am I going to have issues with revisions of the PCM and tunability? II think wasn't 2014 the last year not to require unlocking the PCM to tune?
Sigh, thanks in advance for any feedback, input, or questions.
C2101-17 - Battery Voltage Too High - Current Voltage Above Threshold (Is this literally the battery and only the battery, not the alternator?)
C212A-17 - System Voltage - Circuit Voltage Above Threshold (This feels like it would be the alternator/charging system as well as the battery. Whatever voltage was on the circuit feeding the thing that was reporting the fault?)
U0100-00 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM (Maybe this is the indicator that it's the PCM?)
U0402-00 - Implausible Data Received from TCM (Just how implausible. 600 horsepower is fairly implausible for a 5.7L R/T stock. Of course "Hello, World" is also implausible as is a binary encoded version of Macbeth.)
U0401-00 - Implausible Data Received from ECM/PCM (This also points to maybe the PCM?)
U0403-00 - Implausible Data Received from T-Case (Same as U0402-00)
C121C-00 - Torque Request Signal Denied (oof, DENIED)
Who wants to venture a guess as to what's busted? Is it the PCM? The BCM? Or is a CAN bus toasty/shorted/grounded either in wiring or in some busted controller? My other, previously mentioned symptoms are the persistent battery idiot light and the persistent "low voltage" notice on the EVIC. When we were reading codes, the EVIC displayed the oft-seen "Service Shifter" notice. Also often, the windshield wipers (front) will make a few passes and then stop. Formerly, there were some intermittent headlights coupled with intermittent dashboard display and intermittent Radio/HVAC events (basically seemed like the truck was going to reboot) which happened most often during high throttle situations (I'm like 550+ AWHP. not sure exactly where it's at these days. It's not a LOT of power, but its a lot more power than stock lol). I should probably add that this all started shortly after I suffered like a 2 or 3 day outage of the entire center stack as well as the power door locks and windows on the driver's side and the seat. There were some other things like the passenger door locks, but that window worked (From the passenger door). After doing a battery removal/circuit discharge, it was still not working for a few days. It just started working one day, but after this I'd somehow lost either the gear or actuator on the driver's side hvac damper or the control thereof. Shortly thereafter, these gremlins started, so the first steps were removing the battery, having it test "Charge, Good" but being OEM and 9 years old, replacing it anyway with a DIe Hard Platinum AGM h7. Finally, I did remove and replace the center console and the associated connections, checking each of the 2 ground straps and the connectors themselves for any issues based on the whole BCM being back there and the Service Shifter warnings as well as other threads on this forum showing this type of thing.
That bit about the AC damper door actuator seems unrelated, but is it?
The driver's side vents only blow hot air. The passengers are fine as is the rear. Maybe if I check the condition of the driver's side actuator and gear (sigh its hard to extract due to the torx bit and the clearance from what I see on youtube), I can perhaps identify if there is fault in the BCM since I presume that servo is under the jurisdiction of the BCM and solely the BCM? Or is there some HVAC controller that's separate (and not reporting a code?).
Finally, PCM or a BCM replacement, those are both going to require dealer assistance to stamp my VIN into the device, right? I also, obviously, have a custom tune, and the truck may not even run at all or may self-destruct the engine with a factory tune. It's got a supercharger and injectors and a 6.4L block with 9.5:1 pistons. Who knows what a stock fuel map would do to the engine? But I believe I'd have to flash my junk back to stock so that the diablosport intune can pair up with the replacement PCM. Then I have take a new original backup and get my tuner to re-apply the customizations to that new base/stock tune. Or will the currently loaded tunes still be valid and effective to flash on the replacement PCM? Hell, am I going to have issues with revisions of the PCM and tunability? II think wasn't 2014 the last year not to require unlocking the PCM to tune?
Sigh, thanks in advance for any feedback, input, or questions.
41 - 50 of 50 Posts
The plot thickens...So I have some new info! Maybe helpful, maybe not. Today, it was freaking out enough that I noticed a couple of things.
1) My backlighting/LED display on my AEM AFR/Boost Gauge/Failsafe was dark/off during the "electrical seizure" event. This device pulls power straight from the PDU under the hood using a terminal designed to slide into the fuse block for a given circuit. This isconnected through F93, which I believe is the circuit that leads to the fuel door release mechanism. I guess it's a pulsed electromagnet that opens a latch, and the spring on the fuel door does the rest. Either way, This connection is straight from the PDU, which, in turn, is straight from 6-ish gauge wire that connects to the battery bus under the hood. For this to be dark, does the issue have to be either bad ground or a bad PDU? The next step is to remember where I ran the black wire from this gauge
2) The shifter light indicating P R D N on the dial gear shifter would go dark too at the exact moment that the EVIC started complaining about the transmission and telling me I had to shift into the park and stop the car. I know I've had the center console open and have seen and had in my hand the harness responsible for this connection. I've also double-checked 100% that the two primary ground straps coming from the same harness and connecting to the body/ground plane on metal underneath the console are secured tightly, well-grounded, and not in any way oxidized or crusted over with spilled coffee or whatever
3). The passenger had their window down, but while the truck was having its seizure, the window would be automatically raised. How.... I can't even describe how this might be a thing. It was creepy for sure... and of course the radio/hvac restarts and the wiper motors really make for a ride that a passenger can really be at ease for... or not
So, useful info or not so much?
Fuse 93 is for the "cigar" lighter, not the fuel door (which is 83). Doesn't matter which one you used, though.
How hard were you being on the car before pulling into the pickup lane?
The PDC (PDU) is fed directly from the battery harness. The alternator output is split between the PDC and the jump terminal behind the cowl (which connects to the battery). That's it. The freaky behavior of the window is almost certainly due to low voltage, and the loss of the backlight suggests the charging system decided that would be a good time to start shedding load.
Here's what I'd do next:
- Try and log the battery CURRENT from the BCM. I forget if AlfaOBD will let you plot that data while connected to the BCM - but the IBS does report current draw from the battery.
- What is the plumbing layout for your supercharger, and where is the IAT sensor? Post a pic, if you have one.
- If you have a thermal probe for your multimeter, tape it to the alternator with some kapton tape and run the leads to the meter in the car so you can monitor that.
One of the things that can trigger load-shedding is if the alternator overheats. That SHOULDN'T be happening, since the plumbing that runs past the alternator is on the cold side of the intercooler, but heat does weird things.
I know it's been a minute, and I've not had much time to work with the Durango but look what I found today (see attached). I swear that I had checked this exact thing three times prior. I guess it looked well settled in its previous resting state. The broken end was well slipped under the heat shield as it provided the illusion of having been attached under the shield. Wupsie daisy.
It's been nearly 3 months, and the system only freaked out < 5 times. Unfortunately, I still didn't have that drive to get er done, but my lady got two tickets in 2 days for inspection issues and I have to get that squared away so she can walk into court with the truck's bona fides.
I need to order this replacement strap and then R&R it all. It will be super, SUPER hard to get at that heat shield, especially with the 6.4 in there (I feel like it's broader?). I will need to come at it from below.
Of course, this could be a red herring; who knows
Thanks again to all here who have helped! PatentlyPhil, Tin Foil Hat, et al.
It's been nearly 3 months, and the system only freaked out < 5 times. Unfortunately, I still didn't have that drive to get er done, but my lady got two tickets in 2 days for inspection issues and I have to get that squared away so she can walk into court with the truck's bona fides
.I need to order this replacement strap and then R&R it all. It will be super, SUPER hard to get at that heat shield, especially with the 6.4 in there (I feel like it's broader?). I will need to come at it from below.
Of course, this could be a red herring; who knows
Thanks again to all here who have helped! PatentlyPhil, Tin Foil Hat, et al.
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WOw ok I totally missed this @PatentlyPhil. Let all of this data together and Ill get back at you
. Given that I was in line at the elementary school to get the 10yo girl, I'd say I wasn't being hard on it at all. Ill go get some pics of the routing of the intake lines and where the IAT plumbs into the soft rubber portion of the air routing tubes near the throttle body. The RIpp docs are here https://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/238485.pdf and pg 23 shows where the IAT is placed. I do have a thermal p[robe on my multimeter. Not sure the leads are long enough to get inside, but are you thinking that my alternator might be getting too damned hot? I am thinking that the "seizures" would become more frequent as we progress into the summer? Not sure? Does that broken ground strap that goes from frame toheat shield on the manifold change this at all?
Ok, @PatentlyPhil . please find photos attached
I bet you meant the outside air temp sensor? It's now squarely behind the conical air filter on the ingress side of the Vortech. See the IAT herein 190604.jpg and then the outside air temp sensor in 190643.jpg.
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Im just gonna go grab the 5064962AA from my local dodge dealer tomorrow morning
Until then my hack is OK. Its a redundant strap anyway I guess? Im not seeing voltage drop between battery ground and engine ground... or I haven't yet 41 - 50 of 50 Posts
