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2014 Durango Limited 3.6L AWD
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Discussion Starter #1
My 2014 Limited 3.6L AWD is at around 80k miles and I have been hearing excessive road/tire noice for the past couple months. It started out being pretty quiet but now it’s horribly loud. I can’t hear my engine below 6000 rpms, and even at that point the sound is very very faint. The faster my speed, the louder the noise. It sounds like normal wheel/road/tire noise, just extremely loud. No impact on how the DD drives. Anyways, I was just thinking that the noise is probably being caused by a wheel bearing going out. Does it sound like this is the case? And if it is, how do I go about replacing the bearings?
 

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That's how mine started on the Grand Cherokee. I would try to isolate which wheel by listening front to back and also taking some sweeping curves at speed to transfer the weight to each side and listen for changes. When you think you know which one it is, lift that corner of the vehicle and spin the wheel by hand. You should hear it and feel it. Mine ended up being the passenger front.

There are a few good videos on youtube on replacement that I used while working on mine. The biggest issue was corrosion and the wheel speed sensor being stuck. All in all, it isn't too bad.
 

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Yes I would say that is absolutely the case. You can order new wheel hubs off of rock auto. They got Timken (made in US) for about 50 Each. Do both front wheels at same time. The spindle nut is a 32mm, or 1 1/4”. You want a deep well socket for that. You have to have a hex socket set for the brakes. I think caliper bolt is 11mm. Doesn’t come in a lot of sets so get that ordered. The bolts on the back of the knuckle that hold the wheel hub on are kind of hard to get to. You want to have a 4 pound sledge hammer, or even an eight pounder For knocking the old hub out. Use a lot of blaster and keep pounding on it. There is not a lot of room in the wheel well to swing, but you will figure out the best method for yourself, turning the wheels to make a little room for yourself always helps in these jobs. don’t forget that before you take out the old hub you will have to drive the axle back through the hub and get it freed out of the way. Once you have the old hub out clean everything up and make sure there is no rust or corrosion around the hub mating surface. I also put a thin layer of grease around the area just to make future removal easier. When you are putting it back together I believe the torque spec for the bolts holding the hub on are 110 foot pounds. You probably should put some thread locker on them, the blue, but I did not and it is not a problem. Before you put your spindle nut back on I would spray the spindle threads with blaster to eat up any rust in that area. I even coated them with a thin layer of grease. Because they have been known to corrode. I don’t remember the exact torque spec on the axle nut. It is somewhere around 300 pounds. But I just use my impact gun to tighten it. Removal of the old hubs could be pretty hard, you may have to be on a long time. Just keep pounding on the lip that you can get to, it is on the backside of the wheel, and eventually you will start to see a little separation. You will not have to mess with the ABS sensors. They are not in the way.
 

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2014 Durango Limited 3.6L AWD
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Discussion Starter #4
Yes I would say that is absolutely the case. You can order new wheel hubs off of rock auto. They got Timken (made in US) for about 50 Each. Do both front wheels at same time. The spindle nut is a 32mm, or 1 1/4”. You want a deep well socket for that. You have to have a hex socket set for the brakes. I think caliper bolt is 11mm. Doesn’t come in a lot of sets so get that ordered. The bolts on the back of the knuckle that hold the wheel hub on are kind of hard to get to. You want to have a 4 pound sledge hammer, or even an eight pounder For knocking the old hub out. Use a lot of blaster and keep pounding on it. There is not a lot of room in the wheel well to swing, but you will figure out the best method for yourself, turning the wheels to make a little room for yourself always helps in these jobs. don’t forget that before you take out the old hub you will have to drive the axle back through the hub and get it freed out of the way. Once you have the old hub out clean everything up and make sure there is no rust or corrosion around the hub mating surface. I also put a thin layer of grease around the area just to make future removal easier. When you are putting it back together I believe the torque spec for the bolts holding the hub on are 110 foot pounds. You probably should put some thread locker on them, the blue, but I did not and it is not a problem. Before you put your spindle nut back on I would spray the spindle threads with blaster to eat up any rust in that area. I even coated them with a thin layer of grease. Because they have been known to corrode. I don’t remember the exact torque spec on the axle nut. It is somewhere around 300 pounds. But I just use my impact gun to tighten it. Removal of the old hubs could be pretty hard, you may have to be on a long time. Just keep pounding on the lip that you can get to, it is on the backside of the wheel, and eventually you will start to see a little separation. You will not have to mess with the ABS sensors. They are not in the way.
Thanks so much for this. Ugh. I guess I’ll have to replace my front bearings now. Oh well.
 

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This thread should be a huge help. I am not sure if it shows up while searching.

 

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2014 Durango Limited 3.6L AWD
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Discussion Starter #7
Update:

I tried to get the Timken hubs but they were sold out at the stores near me and I didn’t want to order online because I wanted the hubs replaced ASAP. I ended up getting mopar hubs from a dealer in town and I replaced them yesterday. Everything is great so far: no loud noise thank god! Sometimes it feels a little squeaky or not smooth but that’s probably just because of the grease and the fact that they’re new. Anyways, thanks to everybody for the help on this. I really appreciate it and if it weren’t for y’all I would have had to take it in to be fixed.
 

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Good the loud noise is gone. That tells you you had a bearing going out. As for your squeaks and stuff there really shouldn’t be any..when I did the hubs on our 2012 it was making noise after when braking. I hadn’t completely took the brakes apart when I did the hubs, just left the pads in the caliper and everything and that is why I had the noise. I took it apart just as if I was doing a brake job and compressed the piston and greased the slides and contact points on brake and everything and it was fine. Something to keep in mind if your noises don’t go away or if you think it’s tied to braking.
 

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2014 Durango Limited 3.6L AWD
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Discussion Starter #9
Good the loud noise is gone. That tells you you had a bearing going out. As for your squeaks and stuff there really shouldn’t be any..when I did the hubs on our 2012 it was making noise after when braking. I hadn’t completely took the brakes apart when I did the hubs, just left the pads in the caliper and everything and that is why I had the noise. I took it apart just as if I was doing a brake job and compressed the piston and greased the slides and contact points on brake and everything and it was fine. Something to keep in mind if your noises don’t go away or if you think it’s tied to braking.
The noises definitely aren’t tied to braking and they’re going away. I think it’s just because the ball bearings are a little stiff because they’re new.
 

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The noises definitely aren’t tied to braking and they’re going away. I think it’s just because the ball bearings are a little stiff because they’re new.
On a side note, based on what I’ve recently learned about vehicle lift points on these Durango’s, how did you lift yours when repairing it? Some users have stuck the jack under the metal frame bracket (piss poor nomenclature...I know) and bent it just enough to cause noises while driving.
 

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2014 Durango Limited 3.6L AWD
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Discussion Starter #12
On a side note, based on what I’ve recently learned about vehicle lift points on these Durango’s, how did you lift yours when repairing it? Some users have stuck the jack under the metal frame bracket (piss poor nomenclature...I know) and bent it just enough to cause noises while driving.
A friend of mine does a lot of mods on his vehicles, he has a nice jack that I used. I doubt that I bent anything but I’ll check.
 
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