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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my first car, a 2004 Dodge Durango limites 5.7 hemi 4x4 with 204k and i was doing some maintenance when I saw that I needed coolant and I was wondering what type I need or what y’all would recommend, thank you
 

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The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection.
MoparT Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equivalent ethylene glycol base coolant
with organic corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled water
to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: MoparT Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any
other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in
engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.

If you don't want to buy the Mopar Coolant. Zerex G-05 is an equivalent HOAT coolant that meets specs above.

Here's the Mopar Premix:
Mopar Replacement 50/50 Premixed Embittered Five Year/100,000 Mile Antifreeze Coolants 68051212AC

 
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Welcome to DDN 04D:

Your 2004 uses HOAT. There are a number of brands that will work well, or you can go with OEM.
I use the gold colored Peak Global (also called G0-5) in my 04.
At 204K, hopefully the cooling system has been serviced at least 2 times already, as the oem fill as good for 5 years, or 100K. I would also change the thermostat since it's right there.

Don














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If you don't know what's in there now you should do a drain/flush and add the correct HOAT coolant. Don't mix HOAT with anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate the help y’all I ended up getting the zerex g05 because that’s was available at autozone I’m gonna check to see what I have so I don’t mix them and the cooling system got serviced at 194k so it should be good for now
 

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Sounds like a plan. While you are at it, keep in mind a drain/refill for your T case, front/rear differentials, as well as filter(s) and fluid for the trans. A good synthetic gear oil like Mobil 1, Redline, etc for the diffs, and Valvoline, Castrol, or other quality brand of ATF+4 for the trans and T case. Do you know how old the plugs are? They are speced for a 30K interval. You can run them 50K, but I wouldn't go beyond that.

Don
 

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So I checked the coolant and who ever serviced it put the green coolant so I would need to flush it and I don’t want to do that unless it’s very necessary I changed the plugs and replaced them with autolite double platinum I think gonna hold off on changing the trans, tcase, and differential fluids and corresponding filters until I move out ( about a month) but I may change the fluids if I get a day off here so it just depends, today at work while on break with the car on I got a check engine light and I checked the code and it was for cylinder 8 ( the previous owner told me about it but it’s had been running fine other than a small bump at idle sometimes, after I finished my shift I started it up and it ran like total garbage it was struggling to accelerate and the check engine light started flashing so I pulled I to a parking lot and pulled off the negative terminal to reset the code and it did I pulled out of the parking just fine but when I came to a stop light it started idling rough again when I started to drive it cleared up and I pulled into autozone to drop off some oil when I came back out and started it again it and it was running like garbage again but no check engine light to I drove off and cleared up again and I pulled up to another it was rough idling again and when I pulled off it was really struggling to go and it held the gears a lot longer than it was supposed to and all of the sudden it felt like it pick up a cylinder and accelerated harder and it sounded clearer and shifted a lot better and it was just doing the bump at idle and a weaker take off from lights until it’s got to about 1300rpms I believe it’s was a type of limp mode but at the same time I don’t know
 

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Not the Green Shiit!
 
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04:
The green coolant may be a long life mix, but I would want to know that it was HOAT, and not something that may do expensive damage long term.

The plugs you put in are decent plugs. Some Hemi owners have reported issues when running other than the oem Champion Copper plug. Youmay find that your rough idle is related to them especially if the idle issue arose soon after their install.

You may or may not be aware of valve spring issues that some of the early '04 Durangos with the Hemi had. At 204K, I would think that if your engine was gonna have them, it would have already happened, but you never know.

Possibly, you damaged or did not get a plug wire all the way back on when you did the plugs. I agree that the other fluids are not an asap issue, but if you intend to hang onto it, I would get them dome sooner than later.

Don
 

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CEL flashing on a Chrysler/Doge is always a cylinder misfire. Might be one cylinder or multiple and it's a warning for possible Catalytic Converter Damage.

If you're unsure of when the spark plugs were last changed then plan on it right now. Also it's a 30k mile change interval if you're not aware of that. You don't have to use Uber Expensive Iridium plugs.....Copper or regular Platinum is fine.
 
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As Don indicated...early 2nd gen Hemis have plug wires along with the coil packs. Could be an issue with the wires or coils for the affected cylinders.

Are you getting CEL codes for a misfire on a single cylinder or a Multiple Misfire situation?
 
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Got a cheap code scanner? If not buy one. It will help with diagnosis.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
What’s cel? And I emailed my teacher from my automotive tech class to see if I can use his scan tool, I’m just waiting on a response. it was just one code and I just switched the truck to run 3 times it’s was p0308 I believe, I looked it’s up and it stood for a misfire in cylinder 8 I switched cylinder 8’s coil for cylinder 1’s to see if The code for cylinder 1 pops up. Don i will probably do the trans fluid and filter and the after I move out I’ll do the the rest of them and everything was plugged in good and I don’t believe I damaged any parts but it’s still a possibility
 

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CEL = Check Engine Light. If your misfire moves with the coil, then replace that coil.
The trans has two filters. A normal style sump filter as well as a spin on style for the return line. AZ has a filter kit (TF-349) with both filters and a gasket for $19. You will want 6 quarts of a quality ATF+4 such as Valvoline, Castrol, etc.

Don
 
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So after some investigation and testing I have come to the conclusion that I have a blown head gasket, it’s not to bad for a blow head gasket but it’s not good, I’m getting my Durango towed to Oklahoma and I’ll be working on it there or paying a shop to I haven’t decided yet, but I’m not giving up on it yet
 

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04D:

What brings you to the conclusion you have a head gasket issue? Has it been overheating? If you have a compression issue on a cylinder or two, you may have a valvetrain issue. If there are no signs of a leaking HG, ie, overheating, external or internal coolant loss, exhaust gasses in the coolant, I think I would pull the valve covers and visually inspect the valvetrain for damage. You can pull the fuel pump fuse, spin it with the starter, and observe the rocker arms for proper operation.

A number of the early 04 Durango Hemis had bad valve springs from the factory. If you decide to go into the engine, I would pull both heads, and have them inspected. At 200+K, it may have already been done, but you want to be sure so you don't have to do it again in short order. If you can't tell whether the springs are the ungraded part, I would change them.

There is also an upgraded intake manifold that came out due to problems with water being able to leak into cylinders, causing hydrolock, and bye, bye engine. You want to be sure the upgraded intake goes on there if it hasn't yet.

What is the build date on your driver's door label? Mine was built 01/04, and died an early death at 39K courtesy of a failed valve spring.

Don
 

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It’s was made 2-04 I got a tester that changed color if exhaust was coming through the cooling system and it changed color at start up it smokes but it clears up it doesn’t smell like coolant
 

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If it only overheats at low(er) speeds, I am not convinced you have a HG issue. I would think low coolant level, failing fan clutch, etc. A head gasket issue may not show itself at idle, but once you start working the engine the temps go ballistic. I have never run one of those coolant combustion gas tests, so I don't how well different ones might or might not work. Do you see bubbles in the radiator with the cap removed with it up to temp? Either way, you may be in for overhauling the heads based upon what you see under the valve covers.

For your future reference, I believe these are the updated part numbers for the intake and valve springs.

Updated 5.7L intake '04-'08 5127193AF

Updated 5.7L valve spring '04-'08 53021508AE

Don
 
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