Front calipers: How hard would it be to take apart a set of new calipers for powder coating? What needs to come off and can the parts that come off be reused to put the parts back on? I know there are seals in there somewhere to push the piston at a minimum. My powder coater does a good job covering up areas that need to stay coating free so I'm not worried about that. Special tools required for disassembly/reassembly? Can I reuse the part that come off? If not, where do I get seals, etc. NAPA?

Mopar Valve covers: Breathers in the back on both sides? I have new grommets but they're not open on the bottom. Cut them open? (silly but serious question. I dunno!) Screw sizes for oil splatter covers on the inside of the covers? Self threading? The holes don't look threaded at all. Loctite right (to keep one or more from coming loose and falling into the head (very bad thing.)) What type of Loctite? With breathers in place, I'm thinking about moving the oil fill to the pass side to accommodate the two breathers, the PCV and the fill. Anyone else move the fill? I can't think it really matters.

Oil filter relocation kit: (Yeppers? scope creep from today's oil change.) Anyone do this yet? Type/brand/gotcha's? It's impossible to change the filter without oil spillage making a mess. I'm done with that and want to relocate it to the sidewall if I can find something trusted that I like.

Thanks for reading and your thoughts/answers on any of the topic questions.

IndyDurango

For the powder coating, EVERYTHING needs to come off, especially the bleeders. I've had some stuff powder coated recently and anything that has a seal of any kind needs to be removed, further more if it's not metal as well. The process subjects the pieces to very high temps to bake the finish on. It mayb be better to remove the caliper and paint them.

Yes you can cut the grommets open if you're using a breather. The closed ones were used as a plug so just match up the closed ended one to an open ended one and cut off what you don't need. Also a good idea to use a little black RTV under them to make a better seal. The screw holes on the underside of the valve covers are for the splatter shields. When you by the kit it comes with self tapping screws. A little red loctite couldn't hurt.

I tried the filter relocation thing and it leaked like crazy. Perhaps there's a better kit out there now.

Hope this helps a little.

 

Indy, had a chance to install that Fumoto?

 

Fram makes a kit for racing purposes that's very nice. I ran one on my Dart back in the late 60's and relocated the fiters to the front of the radiator support using AN style stainless hose and AN fittings with very good luck. No leaks. Kit comes with filter bypass plate, new filter mount, hose and barb fittings. Just junk the hose and fittings and step up to the AN stuff. I ran Fram HP filters (racing line) and had no troubles.
As was mentioned, splatter shield bolts are self-tapping, but a little red Loctite couldn't hurt.
Make sure the caliper cups are masked so that seals and pistons will fit in properly. You should be able to find caliper rebuilding kits at your local parts house.

 

green: Fumoto swap done, see above.

John/Mike: On the screws for the spatter shields. I have the shields and no screws came with them and/or I've lost them since their arrival. Specs on replacements? Self taping? check. Red on the Loctite. Check.

John: What brand on relocation kit did you use so I can avoid it.

Mike: I'll check out Fram, thanks for the lead. The one I go with needs to be functional, no leaks, and look good.

IndyDurango

 

Cool! makes oil changes a whole lot easier!

 

I must pay you credit Indy, you're diligent in this process. The simple fact is that not many know you spend an entire month getting ready to drive 14 hrs to display one of the most respected D's ever at Carlisle.
:clap: KUDOS TO YOU MY FRIEND! :clap:
Steve
DOC Pres

 

Thanks Pres.

 

I think the major difference is the quality of the plumbing more than the bypass plate and filter mount. Hose bibs fittings are sloppy and look ugly with the clamps. Don't forget the straps to clamp the hose to the frame/fender panels as you run it, to keep it neat.

 

Side bar: I can't believe Dodge installed a ring, a socket, a lead wire and connector as well as a damn bulb. with it connected to nothing. Is that even possible that was by design or instead someone's screw up on the assembly line that was never caught by anyone? I can't believe they add a socket AND wiring harness pigtail AND the damn bulb with it connected to nothing.

My guess is they didn't want to revise the column assembly to remove it because it's used in other vehicles. I'd also guess that a revision of the column triggers safety testing requirements because it's a safety item. So the cost of getting rid of those parts is probably greater than the cost of the parts themselves.

 

X2 Prez, I couldn't have said it better. when it comes to cleanliness, I think you're the only one in D land that's in the same league as Indy. with Indy's D being over 200k and still that clean? props to you!

I bought a pair of new calipers I had powdercoated cermakrome and I had to gut them. it was a PITA, but I was able to reuse all the parts as they were new and they came apart fairly easy.

 

I bought a pair of new calipers I had powdercoated cermakrome and I had to gut them. it was a PITA, but I was able to reuse all the parts as they were new and they came apart fairly easy.

Excellent info. Sounds like it's worth a try on one and, with successful disassembly, I can spring for the other.

IndyD

 

The plastic rivets/Christmas tree type plugs that hold the cowl in place are dealer-impossible to get.

Cross post for source.

 

I realize this is an older thread that got bumped, but thought I'd share with you how I keep from making a mess during oil changes. Just cut the bottom of a 2L pop bottle and place it over the filter as you unscrew it. All the oil will be caught by the pop bottle. No need for filter relocation (although that probably would make it easier. :lol: )

Hope this tip helps someone out.

 

Great idea :idea:

I use a bottle on my Toyota FJ but it's filter is mounted upside down with a little weep hole for spillage during removal. I never thought about one for the D. Thanks for the idea :!:

Now if I relocate, it'll just be for looks? not that I'd ever do that.

IndyDurango