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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi friends,

I am considering scooping up a set of Trackhawk rims for a steal of a good deal and throwing them on my R/T Durango for summer city driving.
Has anyone tried this?

The specs are in the subject line:
315/35 R20 with 5 x 127 bolt pattern

Will they work?
 

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I have been thinking of getting a summer set of rims too, as I have winter tires I change out for summers every year. Had a Tech at Discount Tire say he could order TrackHawk rims for my DD and they would fit without a problem.

Not sure with the tire size you listed, as they may or may not rub on the inside, but the rims themselves should work out just fine.

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Hey guys! This is my 1st. newbie post....I traded my 2015 RT a week ago for a '21 RT. Really like all the new upgrades, however, I'm looking at adding the rally stripes and different rims. I've been looking at the Trackhawk's, along with the Spider Monkey rims, both sets in matte black. Just wondering how hard the matte finish on the rims are to clean. Kinda leaning towards the Spider Monkey's, the more I look at them, the more I like them, but they do look like they may require a bit more elbow grease. Anyone have a good wheel/rim source they like? Thx!
 

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they will work and your grip will increase greatly...you will also have to rotate with every oil change...i would also suggest getting an alignment as well once their on.
 

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I have rep Trackhawks in 295x45 with +50 offset and they fit perfect. 315 might rub.
115050

115051
 

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You will not need an alignment as long as you drive a straight line. However, if you plan on steering... toe and caster will require adjustment because the Trackhawk rims have an increased offset compared to the stock R/T rims to accommodate the thicker Brembo calipers used on SRT and Trackhawk trims. To put it bluntly, by mounting those rims onto your R/T, you are widening the track of your Durango, changing the steering geometry that was painstakingly applied to your Durango when it was inside one of the five MOBIS aligners.

Aside: I notice that you're planning on 315mm tires instead of the 295mm Pirellis used on SRT trims. Be aware, you may need to increase offset even more to prevent the inside surface of the front tires from scraping the wheel well lining when you turn.

Don't take this the wrong way. I am NOT trying to discourage you. But you did ask the question of what it is that changes if you do this and I'm telling you precisely what it is that changes.

In real life, you probably won't notice much of a steering effort difference because your R/T has electronic steering. But your expensive tires will wear faster on curves because the left and right tires will "fight" each other as you depart from a straight line. Look up "Ackerman Angle" if you're curious about what I'm saying.
 

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Check to see if the tires in this deal are the "performance" Pirellis, or the all-season ones. I think for the Trackhawk, the performance ones are the P-Zero model and the All Season are the Scorpion Zero or Scorpion Verde models depending upon model year. If your tires are the P-Zero and you live in the northern states, be sensitive to the fact those are superb in summer, but dicey on snow and ice.
 

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Sorry for the late reply, these are OEM Trackhawks with new PVD Chrome:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You will not need an alignment as long as you drive a straight line. However, if you plan on steering... toe and caster will require adjustment because the Trackhawk rims have an increased offset compared to the stock R/T rims to accommodate the thicker Brembo calipers used on SRT and Trackhawk trims. To put it bluntly, by mounting those rims onto your R/T, you are widening the track of your Durango, changing the steering geometry that was painstakingly applied to your Durango when it was inside one of the five MOBIS aligners.

Aside: I notice that you're planning on 315mm tires instead of the 295mm Pirellis used on SRT trims. Be aware, you may need to increase offset even more to prevent the inside surface of the front tires from scraping the wheel well lining when you turn.

Don't take this the wrong way. I am NOT trying to discourage you. But you did ask the question of what it is that changes if you do this and I'm telling you precisely what it is that changes.

In real life, you probably won't notice much of a steering effort difference because your R/T has electronic steering. But your expensive tires will wear faster on curves because the left and right tires will "fight" each other as you depart from a straight line. Look up "Ackerman Angle" if you're curious about what I'm saying.
If they are aligned with proper toe and camber, why would they fight each other?

This deal fell through, I am back to the drawing board. Actually looking for something with an XLT 107-111 load rating and solid wear rating. Going to be pulling a trailer and the skinny Pirelli's probably wouldn't have been the best fit. Considering some Wildpeaks, Grabbers, Discoverers with some Black Rhinos or something... Not sure at this point...
 

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I think we had a communications misfire. The point I was attempting to make was to explain why the R/T's factory alignment would no longer apply if you made the swap. Not that you couldn't get a fresh alignment. This is why I explicitly wrote that I was not discouraging you from doing what you planned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ah I would def get an alignment, alignments should be free with each fill up of fuel

So this deal might be back on...I realized the 315s are for the rear only, it's a staggered setup. I think they are 275/40s on the front.

Do you think that will work with towing?
 

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Not with R/T factory flares and sills. Your fancy Airstream will be sprayed, ding'd and pitted within the first 1000 miles 1600 km. (Just noticed you're Canadian).
 

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Sprayed, dinged and pitted? Are you talking about the tires?
He means you are going to kick up rocks and whatever else is on the road at the time and throw it everywhere behind you, in his example an Airstream would be damaged, as those tires would stick out considerably from the body flares.

I've got ZL1 Add-on's Rock Guards to help with rocks and such flying up and causing damage to my paint and whatever I might tow. However, the width of tire your talking about would stick out past even the SRT Rock Guards which are much wider due to the wider body flares on it.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got it. Makes complete sense. Most people don't think about that, including myself, so I appreciate the tip @MeConnect

Did you end up getting the summer rims @jfire72?

@LIDurangoRT s trackhawk rims with 295s sold me on the appearance of the trackhawks. How do the Toyo's feel?
 

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Did you end up getting the summer rims @jfire72?
I have been holding out on getting a set because we have been talking about getting an SRT, and if we did I would get a set of rims for the winter for that instead of a summer set for the R/T.

As I'm currently writing this, in about 15 minutes we are going down to order a SRT.


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Toyos feel great, tracks fine, but I also have strut bar, rear trackhawk sway bar and bwoody end links so that def made a difference in how the truck feels planted.
 

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I’ve had OEM trackhawk wheels on my R/T for over 3 years now and have no alignment/steering/tire wear issues. I’m running Pirelli Scorpion Verde’s 285/50/R20. On the R/T factory suspension the 50 height fills the wheel well better than a 45‘s and the 285’s don’t stick too far past the fenders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I’ve had OEM trackhawk wheels on my R/T for over 3 years now and have no alignment/steering/tire wear issues. I’m running Pirelli Scorpion Verde’s 285/50/R20. On the R/T factory suspension the 50 height fills the wheel well better than a 45‘s and the 285’s don’t stick too far past the fenders.
Do you tow anything with that setup?
 
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