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Upgrading the 2013 Durango Citadel

34K views 71 replies 17 participants last post by  Tin Foil Hat  
#1 ·
Hey Guys,

Previously I had a 2011 Durango Crew with the 5.7L Hemi. After having it for 2 years I was ready to trade it in for a 2014 R/T but the dealership had such a killer deal on a 2013 Citadel that I couldn't pass up. It had been sitting on the lot for several months and they were needing the room for the 2014 models so I was able to drive away with a fully loaded 2013 Citadel (minus the rear entertainment) for $34K. I did a few upgrades to it but now it's time to get serious.

Kirk
 
Discussion starter · #2 · (Edited)
Previous Upgrades
First upgrade was a Mopar CAI and then a Borla catback exhaust. Recently I installed the Diablo Sport 93 octane tune. I used the Trinity 1/4 mile run to get a base line before installing the tune. Here are some before and after times for the 1/4 mile.



I also updated the stereo with a Pioneer AVIC-8200 NEX, JL Audio XD 700/5 amp, Audio Control DQ-61 processor, Focal ES 130K 6x9 components in the front and Focal K2 Power 130KR 6.25 coaxials in the rear, and a custom build sub box with a 10" Kicker sub.




Kirk
 

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Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
New Upgrades
The brakes are going to getting upgraded first and then a Whipple supercharger is getting installed.

For the brake upgrade, I ordered the following parts:
From Detroit Wheel and Tire
- 20x10 OEM Black Chrome Spider Monkey Wheels +50mm offset
From Quirkparts (ebay)
- Front and rear Brembo Brake calipers - Part numbers: 68146613AA,68146612AA,68146610AA,68146611AA
- Front and rear Bremo brake liners - Part numbers: 68144432AA, 68144427AB
From Tire Rack
- Brembo front slotted rotors - Part number 33S60217
- Brembo rear slotted rotors - Part number 33S60218
- Goodridge G-Stop stainless steel braided brake lines - Part number 15010
- ATE Dot 4 brake fluid - Part number 706202
- Yokohama Parada Spec-X 295/45R/20
From Amazon
- ACDelco front caliper hardware kit - Part number 18K2108X
- ACDelco rear caliper hardware kit - Part number 18K1970X

The Whipple supercharger has been ordered from shopHEMI.com.

RK Sport carbon fiber hood has been ordered from DoubleD Mods.

Yesterday I picked up the tires and rotors from the Tire Rack warehouse in Delaware. The rest of the parts should be here next week. The work will begin the following week. I will be posting photos as I go.

 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Looks like you have the mod bug. I got it too. There's no cure. I have the Whipple as well. Love it. Good luck and happy modding.

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
I know what you mean. There's no cure for my other hobby either, but I've slowed down with it so I could get the Durango mods.

Kirk

 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
I ordered a set of dark PVD 20x9 Spider Monkey replicas from Custom Wheel Outlet and they arrived today. I'm not very happy with them. I have started the return process on ebay and hopefully it goes smoothly. Below are some photos of dings, scratches and scuff marks that were on the wheels when I unboxed them. I ordered a set of OEM Black Chrome 20x10 Spider Monkeys from Detroit Wheel and Tire and they are overnighting them to me.



I ordered the Whipple Supercharger from Arrington Performance (shopHEMI.com). When the supercharger arrives, I will drop the Durango off at Arrington Performance and they will install it and perform the calibration and dyno run. I wanted to install the supercharger myself but I'm so pressed for time that I think it would take me more than a couple of weeks to complete. With Arrington, I'll drop the Durango off on a Monday and pick it up on a Friday.

Kirk
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
The Brembo brakes will be here tomorrow so I should be able to get started on them over the weekend, provided nothing is wrong with the OEM Spider Monkeys. The tires get mounted on to them on Friday. I also purchased the coolest wheel center caps. They are made from cnc billet aluminum. The logo is not a decal, it is cut into the aluminum. They have a retaining ring that screws in from the back along with an o-ring to seal them.

Kirk

 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
Talked to CWO today and they will give me a full refund and have FedEx pick up the wheels so I don't have to drive to FedEx facility to drop them off. I'm not sure if all of their products are like the ones I received but their customer support seems to be top notch.

The OEM Black Chrome Spider Monkeys arrived today. The quality of these wheels over the CWO replicas is like night and day. I purchased them from Detroit Wheels and Tires. From what I understand, they are an OEM supplier to dealerships, body shops, etc. I paid about half of what you'd pay at a dealership.

The Brembo brakes also arrived today. Holy Batman, the front 6 piston calipers are massive. I might need to upgrade the seat belts to a 5 point system so the brakes don't throw me through the windshield :)

Kirk

 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
After having decided to go with the OEM Spider Monkeys, I needed to exchange the 275/40/20 tires for 295/45/20 tires so I made a quick trip to the Tire rack on Friday morning to make the exchange. I got back in time to make the appointment to have the tires mounted on the wheels.

The Hellcat logo center caps arrived just in time to get them on before the brake job started.



Kirk
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
On Staurday morning I started the brake upgrade. When I got to the last wheel I realized I hadn't taken any photos so I took photos at each step. I followed the same process at each location starting with the right rear, left rear, right front, and left front.

Obviously you need to jack the truck up at each corner at put it on jack stands. If you didn't already know this, here's a tid bit that keeps the job from getting messy with brake fluid; remove a little brake fluid from the reseviour, push the brake peddle down and inch or two, and use a stick or something long enough to hold it in place. This prevents brake fluid from leaking out of the lines when you disconnect them.

Before we get started, here's a photo showing the comparison of the OEM front rotor and caliper to the Brembo front rotor and caliper.

 
Discussion starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok, here we go:
1. Remove the brake tensioner clip so you can get the caliper off of the rotor once the caliper bolts have been remove


2. I'm replacing the brake lines with stainless steel braided lines so I disconnected the rubber brake line where it connects to the solid brake tubing. You'll need 12mm and 16mm wrenches for this. If you are reusing the rubber brake line, you'll need to disconnect it from the caliper. I didn't check to see what size wrench was needed for that. 2nd photo shows the rubber brake disconnected.


3. Remove the bolts holding the OEM caliper in place. You'll reuse them to bolt on the Brembo caliper. For the front you'll need a 21mm socket or wrench. For the rear you'll need a 18mm socket or wrench. I used a 1/2 breaker bar to get them loose. Once they were loose, they backed out by hand.


4. In order to remove the rotor, I had to remove an o-ring. If you've had your rotors off before, you probably no longer have the o-ring.


5. With the OEM parts removed, it's time to start installing the new parts. I found it was easier to install the new brake lines where it connected to solid brake tubing before installing the rotor and caliper.
 
Discussion starter · #15 · (Edited)
6. Next, the rotor goes on.


7. I added anti-seize to the caliper bolts and bolted the caliper in place. At some point down the road you may need to remove the caliper and if the bolts were seized, it would not be fun.


8. Once the caliper is bolted in place, finish connecting the brake line. You'll need 14mm wrench for that.


That's it except for bleeding the lines and bedding the brakes to the rotor.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
This morning I bedded the brakes and rotors based on the Brembo rotor and brake instructions. After that I washed the Durango, went over it with a clay bar, and waxed it.

 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I'm curious to see how your ride turns out. I just bought the same ride. 2013 Citadel fully loaded without the rear entertainment. I was also looking for a 2014 R/T (hard to find a fully loaded), but the Citadel I bought was too good of a deal to pass up.
Nice. The Citadel has all of the luxury amenities and is a good platform to upgrade. What do you plan on doing to yours?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Nice set up, all you need is rt head lamps and your truck with look sinister.
Thanks. Haven't decided what I want to do with the head lamps yet, if anything at all. I will be replacing the grill with a blacked out grill and the lower fascia with an R/T fascia. I do have a RK Sport carbon fiber hood on order that will help make it look more sinister.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Nice set up, all you need is rt head lamps and your truck with look sinister.
Thanks for helping me spend more money :D These will be here early next week.

Dropped off a new grill and lower R/T fascia at the paint shop this morning. Soon, all of the chrome on the front will be gone.

 
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
Sorry bro with all the blk your chrome headlamps were breaking the front up.

Do you have oem hid in your citadel ?
Yes, they are the OEM HID with the chrome bezel that came with the truck. I'll probably be putting them up for sale along with all of the brake parts.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Guess what I'll be doing this weekend :D Picking up the new grill and lower fascia from the paint shop tomorrow.

 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
This morning I picked up the grill and lower fascia from the paint shop. After work I backed the Durango into my workshop and removed the original bumper/lower fascia unit, the grill, and the headlights with the chrome bezel. Then I installed the new headlights with the black bezel and the grill. Next, I removed the old fascia from the bumper and installed the new one, then re-installed the bumper. From start to finish it took about 1.5 hours. Here's some before and after photos.