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2017-03-28 14.42.51.jpg

Transmission temps skyrocketing even in cold weather. Brought to dealer numerous times and they say they can't duplicate the issue. I brought the car in when hot and they finally got some error codes to it. They replaced some parts and had my car for 10 days. Picked it up and same issue. My 3rd party warranty company says they will authorize the repair if the dealer can say exactly what parts need replacing. They cannot say definitively. I'm stuck in limbo waiting for these knuckleheads to fix my issue which I've had since last August.

2014 Citadel, AWD, 5.7L with tow package.
 

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View attachment 61001

Transmission temps skyrocketing even in cold weather. Brought to dealer numerous times and they say they can't duplicate the issue. I brought the car in when hot and they finally got some error codes to it. They replaced some parts and had my car for 10 days. Picked it up and same issue. My 3rd party warranty company says they will authorize the repair if the dealer can say exactly what parts need replacing. They cannot say definitively. I'm stuck in limbo waiting for these knuckleheads to fix my issue which I've had since last August.

2014 Citadel, AWD, 5.7L with tow package.
Wow! That's the hottest temp I have seen to date. I'm hesitant to believe it. It's so hot that the fluid would be burnt and I would not expect the transmission to live more than a few thousand miles!

First thing I would be pressuring the dealer for is a new temp sensor, just to rule out the obvious issue with a flakey sensor. That picture alone should be enough to warrant that swap under warranty, assuming you still have one. If not, it's probably the least expensive place to start. If the transmission is actually hitting 270+ that fluid and your plates are toast.

Honestly because it's still driving I'd think the chance it's a sensor malfunction is a real possibility.

Good luck and please keep us apprised!


2016 Dodge Durango RT - Whipple SC - Corsa Exhaust - 505AWHP
 

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How does it drive? Are you noticing any driveability issues at that temp? I agree with above, start with the sensor. That temp is hard to believe.
 

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what does fluid look like and smell? 271 it will smell like a BBQ and look like BBQ sauce.
 

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The member I bought my exhaust from
Had the same issue, his truck was bought back from dodge because no one
Could fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The car would hesitate when it approaches 269ish as if the transmission slips for a second. Once the check engine light comes on I pretty much need to pull over and let it rest. I've had a few instances that I've pulled over for half hour with engine on and fan blazing waiting for the temp to drop back to 220 or so. I'd put it into D, step on the gas and the car would barely move. I then shut the engine off, waited 30 seconds and restarted. After that it would operate like normal. The second time that it happened to me I noticed that the gear selection said that I was in 6th gear when I put it back in drive.

The dealer saw that error code and reacted to that instead of the heat issue. Not sure exactly what they replaced but they said it had something to do with getting stuck in 6th gear. I knew that was not the issue but let them change it anyway. The part was on backorder for a week.

Question: Would a wonky temp sensor cause the fan to kick on? Usually around 220º*it will turn on even while driving. At 249º it kicks into high gear and makes a lot of noise. So does the sensor determine the fan kicking on?
 

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When I spoke to the extended warranty representative, he told me to contact Dodge headquarters and escalate the issue. They will send out a higher level tech/engineer to troubleshoot the issue. He said to bring to another dealer as they might have seen this issue before and know how to fix. He said he worked for Chrysler for 10 years and was a mechanic for 25 years before working for the warranty company. I'm giving this dealer one more shot to fix this.
 

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On another note; when I received my car back from the dealer, the headlights switch "off" on their own while driving at night even though it shows the lights are on in the dash. When i turn the switch to "off" then back to "on" they come back on but could last for 5 seconds or 5 minutes. Sometimes only one light will be on. Switch "off" and "on" and they both come back on. Dealer told me that the headlight needs replacement. I told him absolutely not. Sent him a video of how the lights will turn "off" and "on" again. I knew they would say that it's the bulb. The incompetence is driving me crazy.
 

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On another note; when I received my car back from the dealer, the headlights switch "off" on their own while driving at night even though it shows the lights are on in the dash. When i turn the switch to "off" then back to "on" they come back on but could last for 5 seconds or 5 minutes. Sometimes only one light will be on. Switch "off" and "on" and they both come back on. Dealer told me that the headlight needs replacement. I told him absolutely not. Sent him a video of how the lights will turn "off" and "on" again. I knew they would say that it's the bulb. The incompetence is driving me crazy.
Citadel has HID bulbs. It could very well be just the bulbs, it could also be the ballasts. Though it's odd for both to do it at the same time... Our trucks are kind of picky when it comes to bulbs, you need GENUINE osram or Philips to ensure no issues.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 

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I'm just concerned that they will replace the bulb and they will not have a way to test it so I become the tester. I'll bring it back in and they will have me replace the other bulb and still have the same issue.
 

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Might be time to check another dealer.

The sensor would certainly control the fan. These 8hp70 transmissions run a little hotter than most, and it sounds like you are actually running into drivability issues, which may back up the sensor's reading. That temperature unfortunately is really out of line. Getting stuck in a gear (such as 6th) and then driving around with it stuck like that would absolutely cause extreme heat as the plates would have to be slipping the entire time from 0-40mph. One traffic light start would probably be enough to overheat like that. Positively can't drive it if it gets locked in a gear like that. I would think once the transmission locks in a gear you would get a CEL or a flashing trans shifter light.

For reference anything over 225 on these particular transmissions is unacceptable long term. I've heard of some guys hitting 235 on high HP srt8 Jeeps, but in general if you are seeing north of 225 on a regular basis without racing or towing something is wrong. I'd start getting concerned at 225 myself.

The fluid these ZFs use deteriorates at over 250. Meaning once it hits that temp it starts to break down and basically cooks itself and should be replaced/flushed out ASAP.

The max temp I have personally seen on mine (so far) is 208, and given the power adders I have I always have trans temp displayed on the dash. I'm sure during the summer months I'll see that rise a bit.

The cooling system for these transmissions is fairly weak. It's a series of controlled valves that are tied into the engine radiator chassis. As such, the engine actually contributes to warming the transmission up to operating temperature quicker. The down side is that there isn't really a dedicated cooler and the cooler never really drops below engine operating temperature once it's warmed up, and to put a dedicated cooler in would mean fighting both transmission heat and heat soak from the engine coolant. A 180 degree engine thermostat can actually help keep the transmission cooler...when everything else is operating normally, but not when fighting a shifting issue.

I would strongly consider getting your fluid exchanged and watch/feel your shifts. If they stop happening, you should stop driving. If the temp exceeds 240, you should stop driving.

Here is a similar/related thread. Later down the thread another DD owner seemed to have a similar issue hitting 278, multiple dealers, a few component swap, but no fix. Eventually it sounds like the transmission gave up before Dodge escalated.

Rumblings of a few bad sensors and ungrounded wiring harnesses in there, but no real smoking gun.

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/...eed-hemi-transmission-temp.html#/topics/15340



2016 Dodge Durango RT - Whipple SC - Corsa Exhaust - 505AWHP
 

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somewhat off to the side:
AFAIK a 2014 will just have a plain oil-air cooler integrated with the AC Condenser, no valves or anything, and no engine coolant involved..
in later model years a thermal module was added which uses engine coolant to warm the trans fluid, I think that arrived in MY2016 (RAMs got it much earlier).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Might be time to check another dealer.

The sensor would certainly control the fan. These 8hp70 transmissions run a little hotter than most, and it sounds like you are actually running into drivability issues, which may back up the sensor's reading. That temperature unfortunately is really out of line. Getting stuck in a gear (such as 6th) and then driving around with it stuck like that would absolutely cause extreme heat as the plates would have to be slipping the entire time from 0-40mph. One traffic light start would probably be enough to overheat like that. Positively can't drive it if it gets locked in a gear like that. I would think once the transmission locks in a gear you would get a CEL or a flashing trans shifter light.

For reference anything over 225 on these particular transmissions is unacceptable long term. I've heard of some guys hitting 235 on high HP srt8 Jeeps, but in general if you are seeing north of 225 on a regular basis without racing or towing something is wrong. I'd start getting concerned at 225 myself.

The fluid these ZFs use deteriorates at over 250. Meaning once it hits that temp it starts to break down and basically cooks itself and should be replaced/flushed out ASAP.

The max temp I have personally seen on mine (so far) is 208, and given the power adders I have I always have trans temp displayed on the dash. I'm sure during the summer months I'll see that rise a bit.

The cooling system for these transmissions is fairly weak. It's a series of controlled valves that are tied into the engine radiator chassis. As such, the engine actually contributes to warming the transmission up to operating temperature quicker. The down side is that there isn't really a dedicated cooler and the cooler never really drops below engine operating temperature once it's warmed up, and to put a dedicated cooler in would mean fighting both transmission heat and heat soak from the engine coolant. A 180 degree engine thermostat can actually help keep the transmission cooler...when everything else is operating normally, but not when fighting a shifting issue.

I would strongly consider getting your fluid exchanged and watch/feel your shifts. If they stop happening, you should stop driving. If the temp exceeds 240, you should stop driving.

Here is a similar/related thread. Later down the thread another DD owner seemed to have a similar issue hitting 278, multiple dealers, a few component swap, but no fix. Eventually it sounds like the transmission gave up before Dodge escalated.

Rumblings of a few bad sensors and ungrounded wiring harnesses in there, but no real smoking gun.

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/...eed-hemi-transmission-temp.html#/topics/15340



2016 Dodge Durango RT - Whipple SC - Corsa Exhaust - 505AWHP
Just to clarify; I stepped on the gas, the vehicle barely moved so I stopped immediately. Shut the engine off an then back on which kicked the transmission back down to 1st. It then operated normally again.
 

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Nothing about this seems right. You may have yourself a true "lemon" on your hands there. However, there is no rocket science behind a transmission with fluid in it. The fluid runs through a cooler, whether that be an external dedicated cooler or not. A temperature sensor reads the fluid temps. Either the sensor is bad (as stated earlier and multiple times in this thread) or there is a blockage in the lines preventing the fluid from flowing normally. They can't be that thick-headed not to just pull the supply line off the cooler and start the truck and either watch the fluid move or not.

I love hearing that they "can't fix it" over and over again these days. Technology is not our friend in many ways.
 

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Problem today is mechanics don't diagnose problems, they just throw parts at it hoping it fixes the issue.
Too many part replacers and not enough actual mechanics at dealerships.

His condition should like electrical, either sensor or wiring.
First I'd check the sensor and verify its working correctly then I move to the wiring harness and make sure its in good shape.

Did you buy this D new or used?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Problem today is mechanics don't diagnose problems, they just throw parts at it hoping it fixes the issue.
Too many part replacers and not enough actual mechanics at dealerships.

His condition should like electrical, either sensor or wiring.
First I'd check the sensor and verify its working correctly then I move to the wiring harness and make sure its in good shape.

Did you buy this D new or used?
Bought it new. I wish they would replace parts to see what's wrong with it. They won't do it because the warranty company has to authorize it. They can't authorize unless the dealer knows exactly what the problem is.
 
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