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Suspension Cost Opinion

3.5K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  sdacbob  
#1 ·
I own a 2020 Dodge Durango RT. My suspension isn't performing as well as it used to, so I took it in for an inspection at Suspension Plus. They told me my shocks are shot and need to be replaced along with my struts. They are quoting me $4800 for parts and labor. I've never had to get my suspension fixed for any vehicles I've ever owned so this is a little bit of a shocker. I'm just wondering from the group what your thoughts are. Attached is the invoice they gave me.
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#2 ·
Sounds fishy. What kind of driving do you do and over what kind of roads? Do you tow and what and how much? How many miles on it? What tires are you running?
 
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#4 ·
Why do you believe towing a 6x10 Uhaul messed up your suspension? The R/T is rated to tow 7,400lbs...
 
#6 ·
Has is sat low since? Is the back end bouncy now or bottoming out? The worst case scenario would be just the rear shocks.
 
#9 ·
They are quoting 3x the price of OEM parts, so I don't think there is anything "cheap" about it. This sounds like a "we don't want to do the work" quote.
 
#14 · (Edited)
LL shocks are just stupid expensive parts. May not be worth it if you don't tow anything really heavy. You can convert to regular shocks if you buy the regular rear shock mounts, but you'll want to change the rear springs out too.

For me doing front struts, rear shocks, and springs all the way around with OEM on the front and Bilstein on the rear ran about $1500 in parts and $800 labor for my local mechanic to put it all in (southern US). The front was most of the labor ($600 I believe). You also have to get it aligned after doing front struts.

I had OEM struts when I bought the car, replaced with off-brand "quick struts" when they started leaking, and they only lasted 1 year before the ride was junk, so now I'm back with OEM on the front. So far I'm happy with the ride quality again.

I've a post with the part numbers I used on the front here. Call the dealer to confirm part #s for your VIN: https://www.dodgedurango.net/posts/899121/

If you have an AWD the front struts are not easy to replace. You have to take out the axles to get enough room. I made an attempt, then gave up, then the mechanic told me it was one of the worst he had ever done. :ROFLMAO:
 
#15 ·
LL shocks are just stupid expensive parts. May not be worth it if you don't tow anything really heavy. You can convert to regular shocks if you buy the regular rear shock mounts, but you'll want to change the rear springs out too.

For me doing front struts, rear shocks, and springs all the way around with OEM on the front and Bilstein on the rear ran about $1500 in parts and $800 labor for my local mechanic to put it all in (southern US). The front was most of the labor ($600 I believe)

I had OEM struts when I bought the car, replaced with off-brand "quick struts" when they started leaking, and they only lasted 1 year before the ride was junk, so now I'm back with OEM on the front. So far I'm happy with the ride quality again.

I've a post with the part numbers I used on the front here. Call the dealer to confirm part #s for your VIN: https://www.dodgedurango.net/posts/899121/

If you have an AWD the front struts are not easy to replace. You have to take out the axles to get enough room. I made an attempt, then gave up, then the mechanic told me it was one of the worst he had ever done. :ROFLMAO:
I've taken the front struts out of an AWD 2014+ Durango and it's not that bad.

You just need to show the upper control arm and axel who's boss with a rubber hammer.
 
#17 ·
Keep it stock. You start horsing around with oddball shocks and springs, and you'll lose towing capacity and a decent ride. Get Mopar parts off RockAuto. You can also try the Mopar E-Store, as that can sometimes be less expensive than RA or some other parts website.
You can substitute the OEM vendor and save even more, for example - I believe Sachs still makes the Nivomat rear shocks for Chrysler.

Buy a quality set of half-inch drive SAE and Metric sockets, a quality set of torque wrenches, 2 good jack stands, and get to work. When I did my '13 rear shocks, I had the job done in exactly one hour, using hand tools. The fronts shouldn't be too bad. Worst case scenario might be the pinch bolt won't break loose or the strut is rusted in place, but there's always ways around that kind of thing. Spray the hell out of everything a few times with PB or Kroyle. I'd recommend getting new hardware to replace anything that gets chewed up in the removal process. Get on YT and watch a few videos of how others have done it, so you get an idea of what you need to do yourself.
 
#19 ·
It would be interesting to look at your Durango to see what you mean by the back sagging down after towing a uhaul trailer.

It's not that what you're describing can't happen, it's just not very likely to happen. Durangos are designed to tow 8000lbs.

Also generally when a car needs new shocks it becomes "bouncy" and doesn't feel tight / stuck to the ground in turns. This is because the shocks aren't dampening the effect of the springs. Nothing stops working. The car can still be driven it's just not running at peak performance levels.
 
#22 ·
Just yesterday my 2 Front struts, 2 ea upper and lower rear shock mount parts to use on my new Bilsteins came in at the local Dodge dealer. Just the parts alone were $1019.61 with tax. This doesn't include the Bilsteins. As soon as my Eibach springs arrive its off to a local shop for the install. It's been handling like a marshmallow!