[Duh-rango]

Yeah, had a similar problem with my 2013 JGC. AC hissed a lot and compressor clutch would cycle frequently especially during hot weather. My charge was low so I knew I had a leak. Bought a UV flash light and found out my condenser had a leak right where the filter/dryer was connected. Now on my 99 WJ the leak was at the evaporator. Thought it was just mold I was smelling but after shining the light on the condensed water from the evap you could see if fluoresced...that was a PITA to fix. Fortunately both those systems were R134 so freon is inexpensive but this YF1234 is some pricey stuff.

 

[Duh-rango]

FYI here are some temps and pressures you can use to determine if your system is low on charge. Most just measure the evap temp and suction pressure but measuring liquid side pressure can help diagnose a bad expansion valve.

1. Conduct the A/C System Performance Test (Cooldown Test) found within the HVAC System Test. If no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are found in the A/C heater module, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or the Body Control Module (BCPM), go to Step 2. If any DTCs are found, repair as required, then proceed to Step 2.
2. Connect a tachometer and a manifold gauge set.
3. Operate the heating and A/C system under the following conditions.
   • Engine at 1,000 rpm at operating temperature
   • Doors and windows closed
   • Transmission in Park
   • A/C heater controls set to Recirculation mode (max A/C), full cool, panel mode, high blower and with A/C compressor engaged. If the A/C compressor does not engage, see the A/C System Diagnosis table.
   • If equipped with rear A/C, set rear controls to full cool and high blower
4. Insert a thermometer in the driver side center panel air outlet and operate the A/C system until the thermometer temperature stabilizes.
   
   

   NOTE

   This procedure requires the technician to know what the temperature and relative humidity is at the time of the test. The temperature must be combined with the relative humidity to calculate the apparent ambient temperature ("feels like" temperature), when the temperatures are above 21° C (70° F). Use the current ambient temperature and the relative humidity in your location. This information can be obtained from multiple sources, such as the internet or local news media.

   
   
5. With the A/C clutch engaged, compare the air temperature at the center panel outlet and the A/C compressor discharge pressure (high side) to the A/C Performance Temperature and Pressure chart. The A/C clutch may cycle, depending upon the ambient temperature and humidity. If the A/C clutch cycles, use the readings obtained before the clutch disengaged (coldest temperature).
   A/C PERFORMANCE TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE
   

   Ambient Air Temperature (Apparent)	21°C (70°F)	27°C (80°F)	32°C (90°F)	38°C (100°F)	43°C (110°F)
   Maximum Allowable Air Temperature at Center Panel Outlet	9°C (48°F)	9°C (48°F)	12°C (54°F)	15°C (59°F)	18°C (65°F)
   Suction Pressure at Service Port (Low Side)	138 to 207 kPa (20 to 30 psi)	138 to 207 kPa (20 to 30 psi)	207 to 276 kPa (30 to 40 psi)	207 to 276 kPa (30 to 40 psi)	241 to 310 kPa (35 to 45 psi)
   Discharge Pressure at Service Port (High Side)	1034 to 1724 kPa (150 to 250 psi)	1379 to 2068 kPa (200 to 300 psi)	1551 to 2241 kPa (225 to 325 psi)	1724 to 2413 kPa (250 to 350 psi)	2068 to 2758 kPa (300 to 400 psi)

6. If the air outlet temperature fails to meet the specifications in the A/C Performance Temperature and Pressure chart, or if the A/C compressor discharge pressure is high, see the A/C System Diagnosis table.

 

[Duh-rango]

It's your vacuum under the dash down close to the floor board on passenger side. It's a dodge thing next it will start kicking off the floor and start blowing out on the dash and then vise versa but it will be a while before that starts happening unless you run your ac alot. heck wish mine had ac. Hope that helps give you an idea on where to start. Lol! Good luck!

What do you mean by "vacuum under dash"? As in vacuum used to control blend doors? If so, the +2011 durangos don't use vacuum signals to control HVAC flaps as it is all done via electric motors. Now my 2002 liberty used vacuum to control the HVAC flaps but not my 2017 durango.

 

[Duh-rango]

Got a DIY AC recharge kit and used the pressure gauge to check low pressure port, with engine running, AC on Max with recirculate engaged. Pressure indicated ~40 psi on the gauge (middle of the green zone).

Ambient temp about 62, and the vents in the front only got temps down to 67-77 (depending on which vent you checked). Rear vents only got down to 68.

So, weird noises, pressure seems ok, but AC isn’t blowing cold at all.

Compressor? Other ideas?

FYI there are a couple of TSBs regarding AC performance for 2014 durangos.

 

[Duh-rango]

No way that is $100 here in IL. If they evacuate the system they generally put new refrigerant back in and with the cost of 1234yf is like 10x that of 134a so it's going to be a much higher service charge.