[wradar]

For several years, our 2014 Durango’s AC has made strange sounds when it’s used. They come from the dash/vents, and it’s a raspy hissing noise, almost like our AC has emphysema. As can be seen in this video, it only happens with the AC or defrost (not heater), and doesn’t seem to have any bearing on fan speed.

We did have the rear AC lines replaced by a dealer after a collision several years back, but I don’t remember if the noise starting was correlated with that incident.

Any thoughts? I’m literally a day away from a dealer (rural Alaska), so if there are any DIY checks that can be done, I’m all ears.

 

[Vice-White]

Sounds like a faulty expansion valve.

 

[wradar]

@Vice-White In the ‘14, is it accessible from the engine compartment, or is that a dash tear-down to replace?

 

[cerd]

Most garage mechanics are not able to service this since it requires evacuating the refrigerant. I would recommend having a reputable shop check it out.

Curious how this turns out because my 2005 does the same. I just never worried about it because the AC has worked great since I bought it 4 years ago.

 

[Tin Foil Hat]

Or low freon.

 

[Vice-White]

Or low freon.

I would say no to low on freon as that imparts a possible leak and with the OP having this issue for years I think it is a lazy expansion valve.
My Home AC does the same thing. When it clicks on you can hear the condenser practically fill with freon.
It works and I am not touching something that works for years.

 

[Vice-White]

@Vice-White In the ‘14, is it accessible from the engine compartment, or is that a dash tear-down to replace?

It would be in the engine compartment. If a maufacturer sticks it inside the dash then it's lights out for the AC. LOL

 

[tomk]

Slow leak. Common problem.
Mine did that for over a year before I got it fixed.

Get out a UV light and look for leaks, because the dealer is going to say "Could not duplicate"

my leak:

 

[Duh-rango]

Yeah, had a similar problem with my 2013 JGC. AC hissed a lot and compressor clutch would cycle frequently especially during hot weather. My charge was low so I knew I had a leak. Bought a UV flash light and found out my condenser had a leak right where the filter/dryer was connected. Now on my 99 WJ the leak was at the evaporator. Thought it was just mold I was smelling but after shining the light on the condensed water from the evap you could see if fluoresced...that was a PITA to fix. Fortunately both those systems were R134 so freon is inexpensive but this YF1234 is some pricey stuff.

 

[Vice-White]

Just an FYI, if the ambient temp outside is really hot (90+) it is not unheard of to hear hissing when the AC turns on or off.
I used to hear it in my 2011 SRT Challenger when turning the vehicle off and if it was 90+ out.
My 2005 SRT10 used to make a noise in the evaporator area every so often but never had an issue.

 

[cpd5215]

I had a similar issue earlier this month. This was my post below. Ultimately, I found a leak from the condenser and the shop confirmed it. This is a known issue with that condenser apparently from what others told me. Apparently my Durango requires 32 ounces and I only had 19 left in it. They replaced condenser and recharged the R-1234yf.

I have a 2018 DD RT. About two weeks ago I noticed my AC did not feel very cold when idling. I put an instant read temp probe in the vent and temp of air would be 65-68 ( with a noticeable humid feel to it) with outside temps 80-85. When I would start to drive the car, I would see the air temp come down slowly and gradually settle near 48-52 if I continued driving. If however, I got stuck at stop lights, the AC temp would begin to climb until the car started to move again. Obviously at constant highway speeds the air maintained a comfortable cold and not humid feel. Also, when seated in the drivers seat, I hear a sporadic gargle and/or hiss noise coming near the dash. That same sound seems to travel above my head into the rear cabin. This sound occurs after the car is shut off as well for approximately 5-8 seconds. I don’t recall these noises prior to me experiencing the AC problem.

Compressor turns on and off correctly and radiator fan turns on ( I think this is the only fan IFO radiator and condenser/trans cooler, correct?). I did buy a AC pro gauge and hose to test pressure (I understand this is probably not a very reliable way to test)and the gauge read well in the green, FILLED range. From reading on this forum, a possible cause may be a expansion valve? Does that sound right?

I have a appointment to take it next Tuesday. They plan on of course testing pressures and injecting a die in the system to check for leaks. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Duh-rango]

FYI here are some temps and pressures you can use to determine if your system is low on charge. Most just measure the evap temp and suction pressure but measuring liquid side pressure can help diagnose a bad expansion valve.

1. Conduct the A/C System Performance Test (Cooldown Test) found within the HVAC System Test. If no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are found in the A/C heater module, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or the Body Control Module (BCPM), go to Step 2. If any DTCs are found, repair as required, then proceed to Step 2.
2. Connect a tachometer and a manifold gauge set.
3. Operate the heating and A/C system under the following conditions.
   • Engine at 1,000 rpm at operating temperature
   • Doors and windows closed
   • Transmission in Park
   • A/C heater controls set to Recirculation mode (max A/C), full cool, panel mode, high blower and with A/C compressor engaged. If the A/C compressor does not engage, see the A/C System Diagnosis table.
   • If equipped with rear A/C, set rear controls to full cool and high blower
4. Insert a thermometer in the driver side center panel air outlet and operate the A/C system until the thermometer temperature stabilizes.
   
   

   NOTE

   This procedure requires the technician to know what the temperature and relative humidity is at the time of the test. The temperature must be combined with the relative humidity to calculate the apparent ambient temperature ("feels like" temperature), when the temperatures are above 21° C (70° F). Use the current ambient temperature and the relative humidity in your location. This information can be obtained from multiple sources, such as the internet or local news media.

   
   
5. With the A/C clutch engaged, compare the air temperature at the center panel outlet and the A/C compressor discharge pressure (high side) to the A/C Performance Temperature and Pressure chart. The A/C clutch may cycle, depending upon the ambient temperature and humidity. If the A/C clutch cycles, use the readings obtained before the clutch disengaged (coldest temperature).
   A/C PERFORMANCE TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE
   

   Ambient Air Temperature (Apparent)	21°C (70°F)	27°C (80°F)	32°C (90°F)	38°C (100°F)	43°C (110°F)
   Maximum Allowable Air Temperature at Center Panel Outlet	9°C (48°F)	9°C (48°F)	12°C (54°F)	15°C (59°F)	18°C (65°F)
   Suction Pressure at Service Port (Low Side)	138 to 207 kPa (20 to 30 psi)	138 to 207 kPa (20 to 30 psi)	207 to 276 kPa (30 to 40 psi)	207 to 276 kPa (30 to 40 psi)	241 to 310 kPa (35 to 45 psi)
   Discharge Pressure at Service Port (High Side)	1034 to 1724 kPa (150 to 250 psi)	1379 to 2068 kPa (200 to 300 psi)	1551 to 2241 kPa (225 to 325 psi)	1724 to 2413 kPa (250 to 350 psi)	2068 to 2758 kPa (300 to 400 psi)

6. If the air outlet temperature fails to meet the specifications in the A/C Performance Temperature and Pressure chart, or if the A/C compressor discharge pressure is high, see the A/C System Diagnosis table.

 

[birderlarry]

For several years, our 2014 Durango’s AC has made strange sounds when it’s used. They come from the dash/vents, and it’s a raspy hissing noise, almost like our AC has emphysema. As can be seen in this video, it only happens with the AC or defrost (not heater), and doesn’t seem to have any bearing on fan speed.

We did have the rear AC lines replaced by a dealer after a collision several years back, but I don’t remember if the noise starting was correlated with that incident.

Any thoughts? I’m literally a day away from a dealer (rural Alaska), so if there are any DIY checks that can be done, I’m all ears.

Our 2019 DD RT was making a similar sound - our dealer determined there was No coolant in the AC. They refilled it, we drove it for 1,00 miles and when we brought it back for a black light inspection, no leaks showed up. That was over a month ago and so far so good - no noises and the AC is super cold. The dealer is at a loss as to what happened.

 

[❤️Mopar&Bowties❤️]

For several years, our 2014 Durango’s AC has made strange sounds when it’s used. They come from the dash/vents, and it’s a raspy hissing noise, almost like our AC has emphysema. As can be seen in this video, it only happens with the AC or defrost (not heater), and doesn’t seem to have any bearing on fan speed.

We did have the rear AC lines replaced by a dealer after a collision several years back, but I don’t remember if the noise starting was correlated with that incident.

Any thoughts? I’m literally a day away from a dealer (rural Alaska), so if there are any DIY checks that can be done, I’m all ears.

It's your vacuum under the dash down close to the floor board on passenger side. It's a dodge thing next it will start kicking off the floor and start blowing out on the dash and then vise versa but it will be a while before that starts happening unless you run your ac alot. heck wish mine had ac. Hope that helps give you an idea on where to start. Lol! Good luck!

 

[Duh-rango]

It's your vacuum under the dash down close to the floor board on passenger side. It's a dodge thing next it will start kicking off the floor and start blowing out on the dash and then vise versa but it will be a while before that starts happening unless you run your ac alot. heck wish mine had ac. Hope that helps give you an idea on where to start. Lol! Good luck!

What do you mean by "vacuum under dash"? As in vacuum used to control blend doors? If so, the +2011 durangos don't use vacuum signals to control HVAC flaps as it is all done via electric motors. Now my 2002 liberty used vacuum to control the HVAC flaps but not my 2017 durango.

 

[❤️Mopar&Bowties❤️]

What do you mean by "vacuum under dash"? As in vacuum used to control blend doors? If so, the +2011 durangos don't use vacuum signals to control HVAC flaps as it is all done via electric motors. Now my 2002 liberty used vacuum to control the HVAC flaps but not my 2017 durango.

There are 4 small silver canisters up under the dash not sure if it will be 1 solid set or 4 individual ones but it if it's the individual canisters it will be the 2nd or 4th one that needs replaced. If whole then ya know lol!

 

[❤️Mopar&Bowties❤️]

Yeah being a 2017 then I have no clue if it has it or not. But with it being that much newer then should probably have dodge do it one false move and bam needs a new brain or some other insanely priced part you can't just replace yourself. I have an 04 and it's been a learning curve to say the least.

 

[Ggriff]

Recently, my 2016 Durango RT started making the same sound, took it in to have the system checked out, turned out that the condenser was leaking Free-on and it was very low.The condenser had to be replaced and now, everything is back to normal.

 

[wradar]

Got a DIY AC recharge kit and used the pressure gauge to check low pressure port, with engine running, AC on Max with recirculate engaged. Pressure indicated ~40 psi on the gauge (middle of the green zone).

Ambient temp about 62, and the vents in the front only got temps down to 67-77 (depending on which vent you checked). Rear vents only got down to 68.

So, weird noises, pressure seems ok, but AC isn’t blowing cold at all.

Compressor? Other ideas?

 

[Punisher69]

Got a DIY AC recharge kit and used the pressure gauge to check low pressure port, with engine running, AC on Max with recirculate engaged. Pressure indicated ~40 psi on the gauge (middle of the green zone).

Ambient temp about 62, and the vents in the front only got temps down to 67-77 (depending on which vent you checked). Rear vents only got down to 68.

So, weird noises, pressure seems ok, but AC isn’t blowing cold at all.

Compressor? Other ideas?

Have you checked that the blend door is functioning properly? If that's hung up, it'll never get cold.