I just tried launching my Cobalt 226 (3800 lbs) on it's 1440 lb trailer with my DD GT 3.6 AWD at the Lake Canyon Yacht Club (a steep ramp) at Canyon Lake, TX. To my amazement my DD was actually was pulled (skidded) down the DRY ramp a foot or so when I stepped on the brake to slow the descent. I was going slowly, so it surprised me. This happened twice. Note that it has happened rarely in the past with my Silverado 4Dr 4WD...but I might of been descending more rapidly. What might fix this? Note there was no problem pulling the boat out. Here's a pic of my set up.
DBN
Steep Dry Boat Ramp and Durango GT
I just tried launching my Cobalt 226 (3800 lbs) on it's 1440 lb trailer with my DD GT 3.6 AWD at the Lake Canyon Yacht Club (a steep ramp) at Canyon Lake, TX. To my amazement my DD was actually was pulled (skidded) down the DRY ramp a foot or so when I stepped on the brake to slow the descent. I was going slowly, so it surprised me. This happened twice. Note that it has happened rarely in the past with my Silverado 4Dr 4WD...but I might of been descending more rapidly. What might fix this? Note there was no problem pulling the boat out. Here's a pic of my set up.
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Sweet boat...I have a Cobalt 246.
Haven't had any skidding issues, but ramps I use may not be as steep and the Heavier Hemi in the front end I'm sure helps too.
I have had that issue with my old 2001 D, but was never a long skid that I worried the rig was not going to stop...key is to back down slow of course.
Solutions I can think of.
Try reducing tongue weight, will need to measure current weight on hitch and adjust boat back on trailer if necessary.
Install a weight distribution hitch to transfer more weight to front end of D.
Switch to electric over hydraulic brakes which gives you control of trailer brakes even while backing up.
I assume you have hydraulic surge brakes on your trailer currently.
Last, trade in on Hemi D which is a 100+ lbs heavier in the front end..even more if AWD is added.
Haven't had any skidding issues, but ramps I use may not be as steep and the Heavier Hemi in the front end I'm sure helps too.
I have had that issue with my old 2001 D, but was never a long skid that I worried the rig was not going to stop...key is to back down slow of course.
Solutions I can think of.
Try reducing tongue weight, will need to measure current weight on hitch and adjust boat back on trailer if necessary.
Install a weight distribution hitch to transfer more weight to front end of D.
Switch to electric over hydraulic brakes which gives you control of trailer brakes even while backing up.
I assume you have hydraulic surge brakes on your trailer currently.
Last, trade in on Hemi D which is a 100+ lbs heavier in the front end..even more if AWD is added.
At 5240lb, you are in WDH territory. If your tongue weight is in the 10% range (500lb), the nose of your D is light, and with the weight shift from braking in reverse it wouldn't surprise me at all to see the front wheels lock up.
So until you sort it out, keep your speed down on the ramp.
clip attached from your owner's manual
So until you sort it out, keep your speed down on the ramp.
clip attached from your owner's manual
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I am not much of a towing guy but I would say it's all about adjustments. As Tom said a bit too much tongue weight and the nose will lift. Also does the trailer have brakes...maybe those need to be dialed up a bit with that grade.
One thing to look at, if the only issue is on a steep boat ramp, is somehow getting some load off the tongue for that part of the adventure..
Certainly electric brakes on the trailer that work in reverse would help.
Another possibility, if you have AWD and can keep your wits about you, is to back down the ramp with the transmission in drive and use the throttle for braking. I've never tried this, and I don't know how that will work with the Durango AWD system.
Maybe there is some chatter over on etrailer.com that is useful..
Certainly electric brakes on the trailer that work in reverse would help.
Another possibility, if you have AWD and can keep your wits about you, is to back down the ramp with the transmission in drive and use the throttle for braking. I've never tried this, and I don't know how that will work with the Durango AWD system.
Maybe there is some chatter over on etrailer.com that is useful..
Yes you just need to add the brake controller and swap out the surge brake controller on the trailer for a electric/hydraulic unit. That way when you push the brakes on the truck the trailer brakes also activate.
With surge brakes you have no trailer brakes when backing up.
These guys can hook you up with whatever you need and the pricing is also very good.
Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924
With surge brakes you have no trailer brakes when backing up.
These guys can hook you up with whatever you need and the pricing is also very good.
Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924
It's cold...we were out this weekend. Just needed a sweater when running the boat, sitting still no sweater required. And...the lake is almost empty so you can open up your boat from the Dam to the other side of the lake.
Now we got that solved, lets get back to boats.
I was typing too fast, I have a '06 242SX Cobalt. They only made it a few years, hull is the same as the 240, but has some deckboat features with a nice changing room..kids love it.
Most interesting design feature is you drive it from the center of the boat like a center console boat.
I was typing too fast, I have a '06 242SX Cobalt. They only made it a few years, hull is the same as the 240, but has some deckboat features with a nice changing room..kids love it.
Most interesting design feature is you drive it from the center of the boat like a center console boat.
You can also try going down the ramp in neutral. My parents have a boat, and I've never put the trailer in the water with the trailer lights connected to the truck. I never trusted the "waterproof" lights, so electric brakes for me wouldn't do much.
May not be too comforting, but in theory at least, if you slide down the ramp, once the trailer is in the water enough, the boat will start to float and remove the weight that is causing the slide. I have run into this a few times towing bigger boats with Dakotas. I do agree more weight on the front end of DD would be the answer.
UPDATE: Thanks for all the advice. Contacted etrailer and sent them pics and specs. They recommended that I purchase Reese SC Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW. So I did, free shipping until midnight tonight. $403. When it arrives I just have to figure out how to put it on...the instructions look beastly, I can't find a YouTube video showing the installation of that particular WDH. Here is etrailer's, Jason S's recommendation:
Expert Reply:
For your Cobalt boat and trailer, I recommend you go with the Reese SC Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW, # RP66153. This system will give you a stronger system that will also allow you greater ground clearance. This system will handle much better for you as you travel down the road as well as when you are loading and unloading. The sharp angles won't be a problem with this system. This system is easy to engage and disengage as needed, so you will have options.
You will need a hitch ball for this application. I recommend the # A-90 for a 2 inch ball or the # 19286 for a 2-5/16 inch ball.
Reese SC Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66153
Expert Reply:
For your Cobalt boat and trailer, I recommend you go with the Reese SC Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW, # RP66153. This system will give you a stronger system that will also allow you greater ground clearance. This system will handle much better for you as you travel down the road as well as when you are loading and unloading. The sharp angles won't be a problem with this system. This system is easy to engage and disengage as needed, so you will have options.
You will need a hitch ball for this application. I recommend the # A-90 for a 2 inch ball or the # 19286 for a 2-5/16 inch ball.
Reese SC Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66153
Yup, that's just like mine just minus a couple options...but it has the upgraded 320hp engine.
Its missing the pull out side step and I also have the table option... which is nice, but both you could get from Cobalt.
I like the all white.
I put a Seadek pad on the swim platform which I would recommend, but great boat.
Wife loves the chaise lounge and the sunpad headrest which extends.
Here is an old review by Boattest;
http://www.boattest.com/review/cobalt/828_24-sx
Its missing the pull out side step and I also have the table option... which is nice, but both you could get from Cobalt.
I like the all white.
I put a Seadek pad on the swim platform which I would recommend, but great boat.
Wife loves the chaise lounge and the sunpad headrest which extends.
Here is an old review by Boattest;
http://www.boattest.com/review/cobalt/828_24-sx
NEW DEVELOPMENT: WDH and Pole Tongue Adapter did not work on my boat trailer. I am having electronic override hydraulic brakes/pump installed on my trailer to apply brakes when backing down the steep ramp I use. This should stop the front end from locking up. Thoughts anyone?
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NEW DEVELOPMENT: WDH and Pole Tongue Adapter did not work on my boat trailer. I am having electronic override hydraulic brakes/pump installed on my trailer to apply brakes when backing down the steep ramp I use. This should stop the front end from locking up. Thoughts anyone?
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I think the electric over hydraulic brake system is a better solution to your problem than the WDH.
That gives you another set of brakes backing down that steep ramp you're using.
Plus they are just more responsive when stopping than surge brakes and surge brakes are outlawed in several states as well.
Look forward to the review.
That gives you another set of brakes backing down that steep ramp you're using.
Plus they are just more responsive when stopping than surge brakes and surge brakes are outlawed in several states as well.
Look forward to the review.
That definitely will solve your problem. Does your D have low range? I don't know if the 3.6 Durango's come with it. If so, backing down in low would possibly solve it anyway. But having the electric brakes will do the trick.
If you haven't used a brake controller before, you'll need to get used to dialing in the braking power and how progressive the braking is. There will be 2 dials or digital settings, one decides how much braking power gets applied when you use your brakes, the other how fast the braking power comes on. I find that fiddling with settings in a dirt road or lot is helpful, because you can feel and hear the brakes locking up when you change settings without skidding tires. Good luck!
And I'm extremely jealous of you talking about boating when I'd driving past a frozen river and getting a foot of snow tonight!
If you haven't used a brake controller before, you'll need to get used to dialing in the braking power and how progressive the braking is. There will be 2 dials or digital settings, one decides how much braking power gets applied when you use your brakes, the other how fast the braking power comes on. I find that fiddling with settings in a dirt road or lot is helpful, because you can feel and hear the brakes locking up when you change settings without skidding tires. Good luck!
And I'm extremely jealous of you talking about boating when I'd driving past a frozen river and getting a foot of snow tonight!
Ha ha, 9 to 10 months? No way up here. I stretch the season more than any of my friends, and I get 6 months, May to October. With our crazy warm winter last year my buddy and I went water skiing on a local river on March 9th, water temp was 38 or so, just to say we did it. It happened to be a 75 degree day, and there was no ice in the river. That may not happen again for a long time.
That's a good controller from what I've heard, and Tekonsha is a well known brand, I've had a couple. On the dirt comment, you can do it on pavement but when the wheels lock up you'll burn some rubber, that's why I prefer to do it on dirt. Once you've found the setting that locks them up you can back down to get solid braking but keep the wheels from locking. Maybe that controller is so modern it does some of this for you, my newest one is probably 8 years old now.
That's a good controller from what I've heard, and Tekonsha is a well known brand, I've had a couple. On the dirt comment, you can do it on pavement but when the wheels lock up you'll burn some rubber, that's why I prefer to do it on dirt. Once you've found the setting that locks them up you can back down to get solid braking but keep the wheels from locking. Maybe that controller is so modern it does some of this for you, my newest one is probably 8 years old now.
Believe me, it was too cold for me too! I had a warmup top and then a full wetsuit, I wasn't all that cold but the problem was my hands were getting too cold, I had to get yanked up pretty quick while I could still grip the handle.
Good luck, you won't have a problem getting it set up.
Good luck, you won't have a problem getting it set up.
UPDATE: took my boat to the ramp. Backed down the ramp. The front end still locked up, even with the trailer brakes and brake controller. I wonder if the V8 would do the same... there's only 225 pounds of difference in the entire vehicle?
I believe the brakes were set up correctly. I did it per the instructions I received with my brake controller. I have the maximum output at 13... because 14 locked up the trailer brakes. The numbers on the brake controller vary when I use the brakes. They even fluctuated when I was backing down the ramp. I have the brake controller set to electric over hydraulic brakes.
Hm, I don't know that a brake controller will know what to do when backing down a ramp without help..
The brake controller works by sensing deceleration, and that's not the problem here.. you may need to manually apply the trailer brakes..
So the fronts are locking up.. are the rears holding?
The brake controller works by sensing deceleration, and that's not the problem here.. you may need to manually apply the trailer brakes..
So the fronts are locking up.. are the rears holding?
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