Not to blow this out of porportion, but it looks like a lot of the 5.7 have SPW's. I have included some pic's from www

The early Hemi's fired the second plug from the opposite bank. Actually firing on the exhaust stroke. Presumably done to complete the fuel consumption for emissions sake. Don't know if the newer models do the same thing. Looking at the Hemis during the plant tour, I couldn't tell if the configuration was the same.
So, one plug on each cylinder is fired off the coil on the opposite side. Hence the need for a "plug wire", though not off a primary coil as we'd relate it in the past.

Joe

 

I think the Hemi changed over to the two-coil integrated pack in 06? still two plugs per cylinder, but a single coil assembly fires both.

 

Could it be the difference between MDS and non MDS?

 

That's outstanding Tom. Which measn that if you don't get any, hopefully we'll and won't have to import snow from Hawaii to run our dogs! :cheesy:

greg

 

That's outstanding Tom. Which means that if you don't get any, hopefully we'll and won't have to import snow from Hawaii to run our dogs! :cheesy:

greg

 

ok had the battery load tested and it checked out fine. The guy at O'Reillys thought maybe fuel pressure regulator? It makes sense but the longer it sits, the worse it's. If it has sat for less than 30min it fires right up, no problems. BUT if it sits longer, it acts up. I also ran their code scanner on it and there was nothing.

 

I'd say injector bleed down then if one of them isn't holding the fuel line loses its prime and must pu from tank.
Try This Turn key to run but don't start for a few seconds then turn to start if she fires right up the fuel is draing back down to tank if not look elsewhere for problem
WHen was TB cleaned last?
IAT SENSOR And IAC if gunked up vcan also cause some havoc

Steve
DOC Pres

 

yeah I have tried that before with the key. I also turned it on and off 6 times and no luck with that either. It still starts crappy.
I have never messed with the TB. all have done is change oil and spark plugs and new tires.
It acts like a bleed down issue, but then why does it act like it's flooded? I may just have to take it in and spend the money. :wall:

 

Remove the air hat to access the TB
There are 2 sensors on the right side one is the tps and the other is IAC
Using a Torx screwdriver remove the IAC I believe its the lower one thoroughly clean that off and also clean inside the TB where it goes in.
NOW open the Butterfly to the TB and clean all that up as well with the TB Cleaner
Try This before going in to dealer
Steve
DOC Pres

 

sounding more and more like a leaky injector?

hook up an OBD-II scanner and run the rig at idle? see if your fuel trim readings are out of whack?

?tom

 

You can test to see if you're losing fuel pressure with D sitting by going to fuel rail after D sits and pushing gently on the schrader fitting if there's still pressure its another problem not an injector. If there's no pressure it's leaking down. be careful the gas doesn't squirt you in the eyes and do this with D off and cold.
Steve
DOC Pres

 

ok, for the past 2 days it has been starting just fine 2-3 secs of cranking and it fires right up.

I put a pressure tester on the fuel rail last nite and found 0psi initially. I turned the key on and it went to 45psi. I started it and the pressure went to 50psi. With the key off, it fell to 35psi after about 10 minutes. I unplugged the pressure regulator (which is on the drivers side framerail) or what I hope was the regulator, and noticed no difference. It starts, runs, and drives fine. This morning I went to check it and there was 0psi. I turned the key on and it primed to 45psi, then I started it and it went to 50psi with no problems.
Could it be the pressure regulator working intermittently? Or perhaps the fuel pump?

 

You're losing fuel pressure over nigt something is bleeding down(injetor)
Steve
DOC Pres

 

The pressure regulator is on the fuel pump module?

The only thing I know of on the driver's side frame rail is the leak-detection pump, but it's been a while since I was under there?

?tom

 

ok, well whatever I unplugged threw an emissions code. It looked like it had fuel lines running to it.
So would it be a good idea to replace the injectors?

 

I guess at this point I'd bring it in so that maybe the culprit injector could be found
Steve
DOC Pres

 

ok, I may not have been completely accurate on my fuel testing. After further investigation I found that the schrader valve had been leaking where the gauge was hooked up to it. I'm going to take apart the air box today and see if I can clean some of the sensors in the TB.

 

status report:
I cleaned the TB yesterday and the IAC. I pulled the IAC out and celaned it very well. Had some carbon buildup on it. I also used my multi-meter on the TPS and it's way off spec. Closed throttle it's about.50 V but at wide open it's only 3.97 V, instead of 4.5 V like it should be. I also tried the same with the MAP but couldn't get any reading from it. If the MAP isn't getting any signal, wouldn't it throw a code? It seems to idle smoother with the TB and IAC cleaned. I plan on replacing the TPS this week because it's out of spec.

 

at the MAP you should see +5v on violet/white, 0v on black/ltblue, and a variable 0.5-4.5v on violet-brown.

No MAP will definitely pop a code.

?tom

 

ok now it starts fine after it sits overnight, but when it's warm it acts like it vapor locks. Could this be caused by E-10 ethanol? I have been running it for several months very regularly. after cleaning the TB it seems to idle better.

 

ok, finally took the D to the shop. It ended up being the TPS, MAP, and IAC. He told me the TPS was out of whack and the IAC was burnt up on the inside. After those were replaced it ran a lot better but the MAP was still bad. He also serviced the tranny because there was a whining noise. After the service it still whines but he thinks its just a Mercedes thing. Has anyone else noticed this with their trannys??

 

He also serviced the tranny because there was a whining noise. After the service it still whines but he thinks its just a Mercedes thing. Has anyone else noticed this with their trannys??

Whining under what conditions?

BTW, this isn't a Mercedes-derived transmission.

?tom

 

Could be water. Ethanol and cold weather = more H20. Problem is, does HEET and anti water fuel treatments work for Ethanol? Dunno.

A word of advise, spend another whole additional dollar on your next fillup (and forever on) and buy real gas. The trouble, etc isn't worth all the driving ethanol difficulties and extended circumstances.

IndyDurango

 

He also serviced the tranny because there was a whining noise. After the service it still whines but he thinks its just a Mercedes thing. Has anyone else noticed this with their trannys??

Whining under what conditions?

BTW, this isn't a Mercedes-derived transmission.

?tom

Whining under any conditions. From first start up to idling in town. It almost sounds like a gear drive, but not as loud.
And for the tranny, its a weird one. Its got like 5 or 6 gears. My mechanic said the motor and tranny were both Mercedes.
:?

 

Whining under any conditions. From first start up to idling in town. It almost sounds like a gear drive, but not as loud.
And for the tranny, its a weird one. Its got like 5 or 6 gears. My mechanic said the motor and tranny were both Mercedes.
:?

your mechanic is wrong. The 4.7L and 45RFE tranny (father of your 545RFE) came out in the 99 JGC, when the ink was barely dry on the "DaimlerChrysler" letterhead. The transmission is 5-speed, but there are two 2nd gear ratios making for a total of 6 distinct gear ratio.

But, at any rate, there should be no whine? I don't recall ever hearing about a (5)45RFE whining on this forum? though I do see a few instances of that on the web? The 545RFE, based on this forum, seems to be a pretty solid gearbox?

Unless, of course, someone incorrectly installs the main filter, in which case the transmission will destroy itself. Even many "Certified" DC techs don't know how to install this filter?

?tom