[SLR3016]

About to hit 20,000 miles on SRT and brakes are running low so likely going to replace pads/rotors in about a month. I drive aggressively so want max braking. The current dust level while high doesn't really bother me since I go to the car wash 1-2x/wk. Have any of you replaced your pads yet? and if so with what brand/type? How have you liked performance vs original pads?
Talked to dodge parts dept and cost of Front Pads $492, Rear $382, Rotors about $300/each. May get those OEM or, if performance is the same, another brand for less $.

 

[drag racer]

If you want max braking performance, the OEM Brembo pads are hard to beat, especially since the dust doesn't bother you. Most of us from the Hellcat world can't stand the high dust the OEM pads produce related to keeping the wheels clean, and many of us have switched to PowerStop Z23 or Z26 carbon ceramic pads. These pads are nearly dustless, and still have good performance for all but serious road racing applications. The key with any pad of course, is to burnish them in properly. I have a set of Z26 pads on my workbench waiting for my Durango to arrive - that will be mod #1.

As far as rotors, can't offer much advice right now, since I'm a ways off from having to replace mine yet. I believe PowerStop also offers rotors, as well as Centric. My first choice would be OEM, but waiting for the price to come down more.

 

[frictioncircle]

what about retro fitting the 19 two piece rotors...could you ask your tech if they can be easily done?

 

[drag racer]

The 2-piece front rotors for Durango are basically the Hellcat design, but am told are slightly thicker. The Durango version of these is the optional $1200 front brake upgrade for MY2019, and very likely could be retrofitted to MY2018s, but I hope you are sitting down when you see how much Mopar wants for them - last time I checked the OEM Hellcat front rotor P/N, they were still over $600 each, and that was down from something like $800 each when I first bought my car :shock:

 

[frictioncircle]

haha a 3k brake job for a durango....

 

[CaptMoe]

I posted on another thread asking similar questions. Fronts were done at 24k. Rears at 26k.
"I got the Wagner OEX pads/rotors done at Pep Boys for around $450 each end. They have performed well though you lose the slotted look of the OEM rotors."

 

[Chase300]

Your rotors needed replacing at 24K miles???
Dang..you track it?

 

[SLR3016]

Should i replace the rotors since it's only 20k miles, or wait until likely another brake change at 40k?

 

[[email protected]]

Should i replace the rotors since it's only 20k miles, or wait until likely another brake change at 40k?

I would just get the rotors turned instead of replacing them. Not unless you have some serious issues with the rotor. Most places would probably charge around $35 a rotor turned

 

[CaptMoe]

I would just get the rotors turned instead of replacing them. Not unless you have some serious issues with the rotor. Most places would probably charge around $35 a rotor turned

The dealer will NOT resurface your rotors. I was told NO by two separate dealers. I was told by another shop that there are no specs for these rotors and they wouldn't resurface them either.
Has anyone here just replaced their pads without any issues?

 

[SteveMLS]

These are an excellent brand of rotors for the Durango.

https://www.carid.com/2019-dodge-durango-brakes/chrome-brakes-drilled-slotted-rotors-1142705432.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|SRT

 

[Chase300]

The dealer will NOT resurface your rotors. I was told NO by two separate dealers. I was told by another shop that there are no specs for these rotors and they wouldn't resurface them either.
Has anyone here just replaced their pads without any issues?

All the time.
I never turn the rotors...all that does is cut material away from them reducing their effectiveness and speeding up replacement.
No need to assuming you are not running your pads down to the metal backing plates.

 

[CaptMoe]

All the time.
I never turn the rotors...all that does is cut material away from them reducing their effectiveness and speeding up replacement.
No need to assuming you are not running your pads down to the metal backing plates.

You don't turn them but do you replace them or just throw new pads on and keep using the old rotors?

 

[frictioncircle]

on most cars you replace pads until rotors get too thin or crack.....dodge asks owners to replace rotors with pads on the srt which I think is ridiculous...I will only replace pads when the time comes as long as rotors are still in spec...

 

[CaptMoe]

on most cars you replace pads until rotors get too thin or crack.....dodge asks owners to replace rotors with pads on the srt which I think is ridiculous...I will only replace pads when the time comes as long as rotors are still in spec...

My worry is a pulsating pedal because of warping. Legit concern or something I shouldn't worry about?

 

[frictioncircle]

on a street driven vehicle warped rotors are a sign of a problem of either pad drag and excessive uneven heating or a driver who uses the brakes too much or rests their foot on the peddle...often a pulsating peddle can be uneven pad deposits causing microscopic high spots..just try and rebed the pads

 

[Chase300]

You don't turn them but do you replace them or just throw new pads on and keep using the old rotors?

Yup, throw new pads on and away I go. Note the replacement pads should be of the same material pads being removed.
Only time I replace rotors is if they are cracked..heavily grooved, or I change pad material.

 

[frictioncircle]

as above I had problems with using old rotors and changing pad compounds on my track car...terrible shutter even after proper bedding....

 

[Hammerdrop]

I am trying to figure out what, exactly, is the advantage to those expensive 2-piece rotors. It would seem to me that a 1-piece unit would transfer the heat to the wheel faster than having 2 pieces bolted together. And DANG, those 2-piece things are expensive and only available from Mopar or a few speciality places. The caliper in both cases is the same from what I see. This seems to be overkill.
And that center is aluminum which can't be as strong as all one piece steel. What am I missing here?

 

[frictioncircle]

the logic is to keep the wheel hub/bearing cooler....less stress on the bearings .. and the rotor with proper vanning or internal venting also sheds heat faster....think pinwheel.....the aluminum hub insulates the bearing and also reduces unsprung weight..which is nice...