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Discussion Starter #1
Misplaced by SM, anyone know the gap and TQ specs?
I'm approaching 100K.
I search online and found anywhere from .040 to .044 on NGK site for the factory Iridium plugs.
TQ to 18 ft lbs?

tomk, can you confirm?
 

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Chase:
They may be pre gapped. Many of the fancy plugs are these days. Also, you might find that info on your emissions sticker under the hood.

Don
 
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2015 Service manual says spark plug for the 5.7L HEMI is REC14MCC4. Other part of the service manual says the spark plug is SP143877AB.

Gap 0.043in.
Torque to 18 (+/- 3) N-m, or 13 (+/-2) ft-lbs.

- Edited to add other spark plug info. Both have same gap and torque specs.
 

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parts catalog for a '14 Durango 5.7 currently shows SPLZFR5C11, which is an NGK LZFR5C11. But I think that's wrong, that is not a long-life plug (nor is the REC14MCC4 ).

The '14 GC 5.7 (which should be the same engine) shows SP149212AC, which crosses to a NGK 97408 (platinum) or DENSO 5350 (iridium)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So here's what I found during the change out.
The factory install plugs were NGK P/N ILZFR5E-11....which I can't find on NGK's website. It sure looks like an Iridium plug and it has IR stamped on it below NGK.
Also interesting is I checked the gap and all 16 and they were all set at .040. Which is the exact gap they leave NGK's factory. I checked the gap on a New NGK Iridium plug.
So, after almost 100K no wear in the gap.
I replaced them with NGK's newest plug...Ruthenium HX and those also were at .040 and I re-gapped them to .043.
The Ruthenium HX's are suppose to be an even higher ignitable plug then Iridium per NGK's data.
Anyhow my Hemi seems more responsive and the FE seems to have jumped too.
I'm not going to give credit to the new plug tech...but I do believe the increased gap to factory specs would provide a boost.
So I'm betting you all might find that while the factory calls out for .043 gap, the factory is installing .040 gap as that is how the plugs are being shipped to FCA.
 

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So here's what I found during the change out.
<snip>
So I'm betting you all might find that while the factory calls out for .043 gap, the factory is installing .040 gap as that is how the plugs are being shipped to FCA.
Just for fun, I pulled one of my plugs. It's a 2015 RT with about 32000 miles. The plug is an NKG and gapped at .040. So it's not just Chase's plugs that don't have the "right" gap.
 

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I used Denso 5343 Iridium plugs which came with .044 gap. Didn't check what came out at the time with 44,800 miles on them.
The torque is 13 ft lbs or 18 nm
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just to add on install.
I used a 10" extension on the Driver side of the engine and was able to R&R all 8 on that side.
On the Passenger side of engine I used 2 3" extensions...but a single 4" extension would be perfect I believe for that bank.

NGK has a .044 gap recommendation for the 5.7L Hemi which I'm sure works just as well as the factory recommended .043.
Interesting they shipped at .040 though. I've always verified gap, but how many do especially on these fancy fine wire electrode plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I used Denso 5343 Iridium plugs which came with .044 gap. Didn't check what came out at the time with 44,800 miles on them.
The torque is 13 ft lbs or 18 nm
What's interesting is the plugs I removed were not a Taper design like my '06 Hemi has. They have a sealing ring, and mine were quite snug.
I checked what the factory install them at by using my Tq. wrench and seeing if they would move starting at 13 ft lbs and moving up.
I found them at 18 per my Tq wrench. Now my Tq wrench has not been calibrated in many years, so I believe it might not be accurate, but I decided to stay at 15 ft lbs per my Tq wrench.
NGK plug box shows to tighten a 1/2 - 2/3 turn after hand tight.
Could the current manuals have dated info in them???

I also noted that the tips of the plugs I removed had dielectric grease on them from the factory something I also recommend putting on your new plugs prior to install.
 

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I checked Denso site and they recommend 15-22 lb ft for aluminum heads.
 

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Just FYI .... 25 year master technician here. You are not supposed to mess with the manufacturer of the iridium plug’s gap setting. It is set to fire most efficiently, plus sliding the gap tool in the gap can damage the iridium coating.
 

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I am using E3 sparkplug will last long. My 2017 R/T running good. With that sparkplug I am adding 160 thermostat and BK 90 throttle body and efa cooling air intake.
DD R/T running like a champ

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Just FYI .... 25 year master technician here. You are not supposed to mess with the manufacturer of the iridium plug’s gap setting. It is set to fire most efficiently, plus sliding the gap tool in the gap can damage the iridium coating.
I just brought 16 new NGK laser iridium plugs and it said on box the would need to be gaped for each appication. Sop I don't know where to go from here? gap them to 0.43 or leave them at ..40 ???
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Probably won't make a difference...but mine run fine having re-set the gap. Its not like you are sanding them...and I don't think they are that sensitive as maybe when they first came out.
As noted, NGK says its OK to reset the gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
FYI from NGK; While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are occasions when the gap requires adjustment. Care must be taken to avoid bending or breaking off the fine-wire electrodes. NGK recommends a round wire-style or pin gauge gap tool to measure the gap.

I used a round wire-style...not that flat blade type.
 

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Well what looks most difficult is the process of wideing the gap without causing damage to the wire electrode? That wire tool to check gap doesn't look very good for changing the gap. Least the one I brought from Oreilly auto parts.
 

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I just brought 16 new NGK laser iridium plugs and it said on box the would need to be gaped for each appication. Sop I don't know where to go from here? gap them to 0.43 or leave them at ..40 ???
I don’t see what you can’t gap them. I’d use the individual gapping slides vs the gapping wheel though just to avoid damaging the iridium coating.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Just to add on install.
I used a 10" extension on the Driver side of the engine and was able to R&R all 8 on that side.
On the Passenger side of engine I used 2 3" extensions...but a single 4" extension would be perfect I believe for that bank.

NGK has a .044 gap recommendation for the 5.7L Hemi which I'm sure works just as well as the factory recommended .043.
Interesting they shipped at .040 though. I've always verified gap, but how many do especially on these fancy fine wire electrode plugs?
I just brought some NGK Iridium plug for my Challenger and they were 0.40, reset them to .43 Does anyone what brand come from factory in the 2010 Challenger? Dealer told me MOpar plugs? I pesumed they were NGK like I pulled from it. The older copper core plugs.
 
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