Nothing lasts forever and expecting it to do so isn't living in reality. It matters not whether it's a safety device or a tire. If it were a national trend that such a device failed on a regular basis, you might have some standing. Even fire extinguishers fail over time and must be replaced. Do we call our fire safety commissioners and complain because of this? No, we step up and replace the device. Hopefully prior to really needing them.

Yes your unit went bad rather suddenly. Is it a manufacturing plot or problem for the NHTSA, I think not. Expensive, oh my gosh yes. Sorry for the expense.

I seem to remember a post about a rebuild service for this sort of failure, but don't have the thread handy. Good luck. I'm truly sorry for this.

Try www.autoecms.com
They seem to repair most anything in this line, just send them the part number off your unit, usually on some sort of sticker.

 

Not a common failure, I'd find one from a wrecked D and pull it out. That's unless the brakes failed and they totaled the D as a result. I'd look for one that got rear-ended vs front end damage :?

 

Nothing lasts forever and expecting it to do so isn't living in reality. It matters not whether it's a safety device or a tire. If it were a national trend that such a device failed on a regular basis, you might have some standing. Even fire extinguishers fail over time and must be replaced. Do we call our fire safety commissioners and complain because of this? No, we step up and replace the device. Hopefully prior to really needing them.

Yes your unit went bad rather suddenly. Is it a manufacturing plot or problem for the NHTSA, I think not. Expensive, oh my gosh yes. Sorry for the expense.

I seem to remember a post about a rebuild service for this sort of failure, but don't have the thread handy. Good luck. I'm truly sorry for this.

Try www.autoecms.com
They seem to repair most anything in this line, just send them the part number off your unit, usually on some sort of sticker.

Under just about any other circumstance I'd be in complete agreement with you. But when it comes to controllability in either the acceleration or deceleration functions of a vehicle, I disagree. Would you tell Toyota owners the same thing about gas pedals?

Anyway I filed a complaint with the NHTSA. Now let's see if Chrysler LLC has an opinion about that.

 

Good luck. let us know how it comes out.

 

hm? even if there's an internal leak, it should only take out one of the two brake circuits. If it's indeed taking out both brake circuits, then that's cause for concern. Is it really taking out both brake circuits?

?tom

 

hm? even if there's an internal leak, it should only take out one of the two brake circuits. If it's indeed taking out both brake circuits, then that's cause for concern. Is it really taking out both brake circuits?

?tom

Completely. After the pedal sinks to the floor, the vehicle will begin to move again if the tranny is in drive.

 

I drive a Prius and have over 100k on it now with absolutely zero problems and on the original brakes. No recalls, no anything.

 

I drive a Prius and have over 100k on it now with absolutely zero problems and on the original brakes. No recalls, no anything.

"Kiss of Death" :naughty:

 

Have to agree with the "oh well" group. I can't see how Fiat, er, Chrysler is going to goodwill this. This is different from the Toyota gas pedal problem because that's a pandemic and this is a one-off. I'm sorry the part failed and that it's a beast of a repair bill, but I don't see you having any recourse. Let us know what Fi? er, Chrysler LLC says.

 

$1100 also seems kinda high. It's hard to figure out what the price for the part is on the online sites because they don't break out the RWAL and 4WAL configs (and don't actually show a pic of what it is you're ordering) but MSRP for the part should be in the $700 range (with street price a lot cheaper) and I doubt its an hour of labor.

Curious. Though the recommended maintenance schedules don't require it, did you regularly flush your brake fluid? (I've lost track as to whether you're the original owner.)

?tom

 

meh.

Shìt breaks and goes bad? all shìt sooner or later.

Crying over spilt milk and pissing up a rope isn't going to make it better. Chrysler owes you bubkis.

Buy the part used from LQK or get it yourself, install it, and have the system cycled at the stealer.

JMHO

IndyDurango

 

$1100 also seems kinda high. It's hard to figure out what the price for the part is on the online sites because they don't break out the RWAL and 4WAL configs (and don't actually show a pic of what it's you're ordering) but MSRP for the part should be in the $700 range (with street price a lot cheaper) and I doubt its an hour of labor.

Curious. Though the recommended maintenance schedules don't require it, did you regularly flush your brake fluid? (I've lost track as to whether you're the original owner.)

?tom

I know, it's annoying that you can't get an actual picture of what you're ordering. That's why I stopped looking online. I can't figure out what I'm actually buying! Dealer quoted the accumulator price at $799. I doubt they'd be willing to install a part from outside their own system.

Original owner and, yes, I flushed the brake fluid several times on the vehicle. I never let it get beyond a light brownish color. I can't believe some people who drive around in vehicles with the stuff looking like coffee. Scary.

 

I had a similar problem on my Dynasty that had to have the accumulator replaced. What a difference. Yes, expensive. The security it gave after being fixed however, priceless.

 

Resolution:

Vehicle repaired by dealer. Seems to be working fine. Pedal is firm. Service adviser mentioned that ABS accumulators are back ordered.

Chrysler LLC agreed to reimburse 50% of the repair costs which means I'll get about $550 back after I submit the paperwork to them. This agreement was reached with minimal argument.

Two very interesting pieces of information:

1. ABS accumulators are being ordered from Chrysler at a rate higher than expected; otherwise they wouldn't be backordered.
2. Chrysler has in fact had this sort of customer service call before; otherwise I wouldn't expect such accommodation from a nearly bankrupt auto manufacturer.

As they say in the media, this story's got legs. Hope it helps someone else someday.

 

It could be that they're in the process of changing vendors for one reason or another. Maybe the quality of the old vendor's product wasn't up to snuff so they changed/or are changing.

 

It's hard to be sure about the meaning of the backorder, supplier relationships got pretty badly damaged over the past couple of years and supplies are just strange.

 

+1 Tom

Vendors didn't get paid, so they don't ship to Chrysler anymore. That constrains the supply. With no change in demand, a shortened supply will appear as if demand is up based on available quantity now verses pre-bankruptcy available quantity then. My money is on that it's that simple. If there was some new brake issue that was a real problem? in quantity? we of all people would have heard about it in the forum grumblings. Some of us are on a few daily ya know.

IndyDurango

 

Very possible. I'm just drawing conclusions based on what the service advisor said. He did mention that he's seen two other D's with the same issue in the past few months though.

 

I know this forum is from a while ago but I read it searching for the answer with my own 99 durango.

When stopping my brake pedal would sink to the floor, eventually letting me roll foreward while at stop lights.

We replaced the master cylinder then my dad and I bled the brakes like 20 times thinking maybe we missed something or fucked something up. Unable to figure out what we were missing.
We replaced both rear wheel cylinders thinking it would help since they had a very subtle leak, pedal still sank. Did an overnight gravity bleed, manual bleeds, genuinely thinking we were missing SOMETHING and racking our brains for a few days.

I bought the car used for 700$ it came with lots of (easy to fix if you know what youre doing) issues, include the abs and brake lights being on constantly despite braking fine. I had read on a seperate forum that we needed to bleed the abs seperately, but in order to use an scan tool to bleed the abs system we had to fix the abs.

We replaced the sensor in the rear diff thinking maybe if we got the abs working we could use a code reader or do some hard braking on a test drive to potentially bleed that.

Sensor did nothing, ended up going to a local junkyard and getting the abs modulator and pump. We replaced the modulator first, nothing changed. Then we replaced the abs pump and bled everything AGAIN . Abs and brake lights are still on but HALLELUJAH the brake pedal no longer sinks to the floor!

Long story short, TRY THE ABS PUMP!

I know this thread is from yearrrsss ago but I wanted to add this hoping it could help someone like myself reading for answers. Hope this can help someone!