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Discussion Starter #1
So I got 3 tunes from Sean at Hemi Fever.

1. 93 octane MDS ON, TQ Mgmt OFF
2. 93 octane MDS OFF, TQ Mgmt OFF
3. 93 octane MDS OFF, TQ Mgmt ON

#1 was ok, not too bad. #2 was rough. #3 is better but not as good as when I install the stock PCM in the car. That is butter smooth.

Here is whats happening. When I drive with the car in "D" its fine as long as I don't get the revs up around 3500-4000 rpms at more than 50% throttle if I do and it goes to shift and I keep pressing the accelerator it jumps out and into gear rough, like I am bangin gears in a corvette or something.

Paddle shifting is horrible at best. I have to let off the throttle slightly when running it hard or it shifts rough. Like if I run redline, and then shift its ok, however If I run to around 3000-4000rpms and then keep 75%+ throttle and shift with the paddle its slamming gears. When I am at a light and want to get out of manual paddle shifting and go back to auto, I hold the right paddle for 2 seconds and it switches but its a big wobble feeling on the car.

Is any of this normal?
 

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I do not have a tune and have a 2016 R/T with stock engine but none of that sounds normal to me. My only thought is that each time you change the tune you are overwriting and clearing out anything that it has learned. When I first got mine I thought the shifting could be better (I was also coming from driving two CVT cars which dont even shift at all) but after a few 100 miles or so the transmission learns what to do and how you drive and even when mashing it on the highway or off a red light I don't notice anything out of the ordinary. If you drive around everywhere flooring it then the transmission may learn that is normal and shift harder, honestly I am not really sure but just sharing my 2 cents. Another thought is that he activated sport mode which I am not sure was a stock option on your 2015. If I ever run in Sport mode which I don't normally do then I can certainly tell it shifts way differently. It certainly keeps the RPM's up higher and the MPG's way lower, not sure if it affects other parameters, I know it also changes the steering but only for 2016 I believe since it is fully electric steering. I believe you are one of the first with a 2015 tune so maybe they just have not figured it out yet and there are other unknown differences that are affecting things or maybe it just needs to learn. I would drive normal no paddle shifters or constant flooring/testing it for 500 miles on ONE tune (whichever one you think you want to stick with based on if you want MDS, ect) and see how it is after the 500 miles. If you have already done that then nevermind and I really hope it gets figured out for you as I am waiting for them to release tuning for the 2016s and certainly dont want the same issue.
 

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Ditto on DoxiDad2016. You just erased everything the PCM has learned and you're starting back at square one... Even the factory throws just a few miles onto it before it hits the dealers so the transmission is just barely above baseline. Run it for a few days or a week then see how it is


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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help guys. Does flashing a new map reset the TCM and the learning?
 

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Yep, it runs off the baseline initially but "learns" as you drive to make it smooth. If you go around driving it real hard, red line shifts and full throttle a lot, it will hold the gears a little longer and shift a bit harder when you stop driving like that. If you normally drive like a grandma then start hammering it, it's gonna be a little mushy and seem like it's acting weird till it goes "oh well then let's get sporty!" And firms up the shifts and whatnot.

When you flash it, you're basically telling the computer "Yeah everything you know and love now? Forget it all. It's all useless now. This, this new program here, use that. Much better. You'll thank me later."


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It definitely could be what others said above but I would have a discussion with Sean as well.
Maybe datalog a few times and send it to him for review.
STEVE
 

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The non volatile memory has a real broad shifting memory. The learned memory from your driving habits is what smoothes out most of the shifting roughness. Drive the truck some more and see if it gets smoother or better. If nothing has changes then something is not right with your tune. But your in luck nj and ny has great hemi tuners for a custom tune
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just pulled fuse F 60 which is a 15 amp fuse going to the TCM. I cycled the key as stated above, and I heard the transmission make a noise almost like My BMW did when I reset the learning process. It said there is a transmission problem on the – but as soon as I put the fuse back and everything went back to normal and I heard the transmission make another noise. And by noise I mean the normal pump kind of sound that the transmission has cycled. This way I'll have a fresh start and I can have a good driving procedure to reset it.
 

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So I got 3 tunes from Sean at Hemi Fever.

1. 93 octane MDS ON, TQ Mgmt OFF
2. 93 octane MDS OFF, TQ Mgmt OFF
3. 93 octane MDS OFF, TQ Mgmt ON

#1 was ok, not too bad. #2 was rough. #3 is better but not as good as when I install the stock PCM in the car. That is butter smooth.

Here is whats happening. When I drive with the car in "D" its fine as long as I don't get the revs up around 3500-4000 rpms at more than 50% throttle if I do and it goes to shift and I keep pressing the accelerator it jumps out and into gear rough, like I am bangin gears in a corvette or something.

Paddle shifting is horrible at best. I have to let off the throttle slightly when running it hard or it shifts rough. Like if I run redline, and then shift its ok, however If I run to around 3000-4000rpms and then keep 75%+ throttle and shift with the paddle its slamming gears. When I am at a light and want to get out of manual paddle shifting and go back to auto, I hold the right paddle for 2 seconds and it switches but its a big wobble feeling on the car.

Is any of this normal?
I have a 2015 RT also and I just installed a 93 tune from Sean yesterday but I'm not experiencing any of the issues that you are. The MDS and Torque Management are off in my tune so I would be running your #2. You said #2 was rough, what was it doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Drive today 100 miles through Nyc and highway. I noticed on the way home it was smoother so I paddle shifted and it's much better!! It's getting smoother if that's the case I may just install the tune again that has torque management and mds off and just pull the fuse again and let that Learn.

I heard torque management is the reason the Durango RT 0-60 is 6.6 seconds. I was reading something somewhere and it explained faster shifts would put the car in the high 5.x range. So wondering if torque management off would allow this.

I was watch a video from this guy in Colorado who does car reviews and he was explaining the 8speed got the Durango down from 7.2 to 6.6 as the 6-speed was horrid. So he was saying if it was a faster shifter it would be in high 5's.
 

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They slowed the Durango down cuz it would have been to close to the srt Cherokee off the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
By removing torque management that fixes that right?
 

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Torque Management is there to protect the driveline components from sudden shock which can damage, or cause accelerated wear, in things like U Joints, pinion bearings, transmission components, etc ... So naturally, it makes sense that disabling it will cause a more violent shifting situation when under high load. Of course, when driving normally (say with with 20% throttle) it shouldn't be a violent experience due to delivered torque not being so high.

If you are experiencing delayed shifting, meaning the RPMs are getting up to 4k or higher before shifts happen, then having torque management disabled will cause the vehicle to jerk. Sport Mode in the 2016's does exactly this: It delays the shifting to allow RPMs to climb higher, but also downshifts earlier as well. If torque management is disabled, and the sport mode shift patterns are enabled, I can see this causing the issue(s) you are experiencing.

I read somewhere that Sean was using the 2016's sport mode shift tables in 2015 (and possibly earlier) vehicles. I would ask Sean about the sport mode shifting pattern next time you communicate with him. If he has it enabled in your tune, ask him to put the shifting patterns back to OEM; but leave torque management disabled. This may get you the better torque curve, but also retain the smooth OEM shifting. You can always delay the shifts manually by giving more throttle, or by engaging the paddles.
 
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