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Road Magnet springs installed on AWD RT

53K views 73 replies 18 participants last post by  DrDurangoTx  
#1 ·
I finally got around to lowering my AWD RT with the Road Magnet springs that have been sitting in my bedroom for about a month. My oldest son helped me but it still took 2 days, partly because of some mistakes and partly because of some aggravating parts.

A pitman arm puller IS necessary, despite what some may say. Unless you want to mangle your ball joints with a pickle fork or you feel like wasting time with a hammer before you finally break down and buy the thing, just go ahead and get a $15 pitman arm puller from your local Advance Auto Parts (or whoever you support). It's worth avoiding the headache that will inevitably come when you tear everything down and realize that the 2 hours you spent hammering on the side of the ball joint could have just been avoided if you'd bought the stupid tool to begin with.



If you don't have an impact wrench--either air or electric--don't even consider doing this at home. You will not get some of the bolts undone with just brute force. Not to mention the time savings when you start working with the spring compressor. If you use air, you'll want to have a STRONG compressor. I have an electric impact and LOVE it. You can get the compressor from any of the auto parts stores that have loaner tools, I got mine from Advance Auto Parts.



I picked up the end links from Black Ops Autoworks, and I'm glad I did. Not only are they better looking and significantly beefier, it helps when the stock parts can't be reused after the disassembly. The driver's side front end link got bound up and I ended up taking my sawzall to it to get it out. Maybe it's because my patience had run out, but I fiddled with that thing for so long and never got it loose. Plus, the pieces from Black Ops are just gorgeous works of art.





Next post will have the pictures I know you're looking for, the before and afters!
 
#29 ·
Yep, got it all installed late yesterday afternoon. Sorry, but I completely skipped getting any more pictures because I was so excited. I'll take some pictures when I get home from work tonight.

I ended up putting about 100 miles on it yesterday night and the ride is great. It's slightly rougher than factory, but nothing uncomfortable. You definitely feel the road more but it doesn't shake your spine loose.

I took a 180* interstate on-ramp at about 65mph and it was perfectly planted. Previously I'd done it at about 55-60 and it was getting uncomfortable. Someone at Advance Auto Parts told me it reminded him of a Dodge version of the Jeep SRT8--I told him that's exactly what I was going for.
 
#30 ·
Sounds great! Can't wait to do mine now. Looking forward to more pics...do you still have the reverse rake look? Oh and did you cut the bumpstops at all?
 
#34 · (Edited)
Thanks for the write up!

I am about to order all the goodies to lower my D right now. woowoo
 
#35 ·
After a few days, here are pictures of what I assume will be the final stance. Perhaps it's not as obvious to me because I've just gotten used to it, but it seems to me that the reverse rake has minimized. I'll be scheduling an alignment next week but I expect they won't be able to pull the rears in enough so I'm seriously considering the BWoody rear control arms. I just can't see spending almots $700 for an adjustable part instead of a $300 fixed part if the fixed part will do what I need. I'll see how close they can get without the control arms and if that's not enough then I'll contact BWoody.



 
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#36 ·
Looks about right. I forgot that mine came up a bit once the alignment was back in check. Yours should do the same.
 
#40 ·
Do you have any current pictures of your setup?
 
#37 ·
Yeah, there's quite a bit of lean in the tires because of all the negative camber. Especially in the back. Standing them back upright should help raise it.
 
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#42 ·
I was already thinking the same thing. Not only does a 275 look pretty good, but it'll help with traction, if that becomes an issue in the near future.
 
#44 · (Edited)
What tires are you running? And are those Viper reps?
 
#46 ·
Looks good.
 
#48 ·
Not anymore but I've made some changes to increase my available rear suspension travel. Inner wheel wells are trimmed and metal lip is very lightly rolled.
 
#49 ·
Now yours looks a lot lower then any of the others I've seen as well as the front looking very low. Are those just the regular springs?
 
#50 ·
They are. The wheel offset pushes the tires out and the fitment is dead on. That might be the difference you're seeing.
 
#51 · (Edited)
Matt, your drop definitely looks a bit lower than other RM springs I've seen... it's perfect actually... are you sure RM didn't change the cut after the first few runs? The Nitto tires could also be a bit taller. I'm also surprised you were rubbing before doing all that fender work, that's why I'm wondering if RM changed the springs after getting some feedback from those first few installs.
 
#52 ·
Once they finalized the design they did a run of 20 sets for the Durango. This is one of those 20 sets that I'm running and honestly I'm not sure they will be doing another run once those are done.
 
#53 ·
Glad I got my set!... and thanks to you for convincing me to get them... it was your photos that got me hooked on the drop!
 
#54 ·
We really need something in between these and the Eibach offering.
 
#55 ·
Why in between? To me the RM springs are a pretty subtle drop (1.2"-1.4") for a SUV. Anything less is pointless and anything more will reduce performance. These would compare to the GTWorx or Swift springs for the Evo... by the way do you miss your 8? The wife let me keep my Evo9... probably cause it has 4 doors and I can drive the kids and pick up groceries :).
 
#57 ·
Hey Bryan, any updates on your lowered D? How's it riding? When you going for an alignment?
 
#58 ·
I put it in the local Firestone shop for a lifetime alignment. I made sure to clarify with them and assured them I would be getting my money's worth out of their "lifetime" service. Here are the camber specs.

Before:
LF: -1.8* RF: -2.4*
LR: -2.7* RR: -2.8*

After:
LF: -1.2* RF: -1.1
LR: -2.5* RR: -2.1*

The guy also put just a little more caster in the front left (5.8* to 6.3*) to help pull the camber back into spec and to help minimize tire wear. If the tires aren't wearing bad enough, I'll go back and tell them to straighten it up and I'll deal with whatever excess tire wear it causes.

I told the guys I'd be looking into some rear control arms that would help pull the rear camber back closer to a -1.x* and then I'd be back in for another line up.

So far, it drives great if only a little stiffer than stock.

The front hasn't settled any more than the last picture I posted but the ride is good. I've got a plan to put about 100-150lbs on the front suspension so I'll see if that little bit of weight will help push the front down a little more.
 
#65 ·
I've got the weekend off so if weather cooperates I'll try to wash, clay, and wax and then get some good pictures.