Here is a diagnosis and testing of the remote start system.

View attachment RemoteStartInoperative.pdf

 

Thanks, looks like it needs a scan tool to properly diagnose?

 

I know it is worlds different, but some basic technology applies... I installed a remote start on my 96 E-350. It did the same as yours. Weakly tried but quickly abandoned, and would not reset until I manually started. Manual start was fine, no issues. Turned out to be a weak ground from the remote starter harness. Is there any warranty recourse that you can use to have them look at it? If so that's my first step if it was me. From what you describe it sounds definitely like a remote start issue, since everything else works normally, including manual start. It would not be a safety issue like an open hood or even a weak fob battery because it would not try at all...

 

What year/engine?

 

I found this walkthru fora Jeep GC

I'm trying to avoid a trip to the dealership as much as i can. So maybe I'll unplug and replug if its so close to the steering wheel?

I couldn't find too may videos on the installation of a remote starter for this Durango.

I have 4 main next steps:
1) Do the fabled Start Up , Start Down x2 Reset to see if that works (read that somewhere on this forum)
2) Maybe use my ODBC scanner to see if any codes are coming up
3) Look and wiggle some wires behind the steering wheel column where the remote starter should be
4) Battery Hard Reset.

 

Oh its 2014 DD Citadel V8

 

run a scan my d would start up and then shut off had a check engine light on cleared that problem solved

 

I believe that’s the problem with mine... i just changed the upper Cooke to hose... and now my light is on... Was there something actually wrong with your Durango when you cleared it.. ?or did you just clear it.. and auto start worked fine?

 

Try hitting the door lock button first, then try the remote start button. Also have you changed the batteries in the remotes lately? If not buy a couple #2032 watch batteries and install them in the FOBs. Hope you get this figured out, since I hate to get into my '14 Durango when its cold in the winter without first using the remote start, since I have it programmed to turn on both the heated steering wheel and driver's seat too.

 

**UPDATE

Did the soft reset (turn on and off twice) that didnt work.
Did the OBD2 code scan (found no faults, but cleared all codes) AND took the car on a 45 minute drive on the highway (tons of traffic). And lo and behold, the remote start is now working again.

My thinking is, since i do mostly local driving during the week, maybe the battery started getting drained, and the highway driving managed to charge it up again.

So, case closed, i think... thanks for everyone for their help.

 

Well... if that's the case and your battery is OEM original, may want to consider swapping in a new one or at least testing that one. Even with short trips, if driven regularly your healthy battery shouldn't run down.

Glad it is sorted, hope it stays that way!

 

Hey all,

still having the start up issues again. it seems to be very intermittent.

I tried taking it to the dealership (made an appointment) and they said they were too busy to look at it and to come back next week. (probably won't go there again).

I read on some jeep forums that it may be the hood latch switch. since Jeep and Durangos probably share may parts. has anyone encountered this?

Again, in remote start fashion, I press the 2x button twice. The car beeps twice, and weakly tries to turn the car and stops. once i get in, it starts no problem.

Thoughts?

 

I tried taking it to the dealership (made an appointment) and they said they were too busy to look at it and to come back next week. (probably won't go there again).

Good move. I wouldn't go back if they couldn't be bothered by me.

I read on some jeep forums that it may be the hood latch switch. since Jeep and Durangos probably share may parts. has anyone encountered this?

Again, in remote start fashion, I press the 2x button twice. The car beeps twice, and weakly tries to turn the car and stops. once i get in, it starts no problem.

Thoughts?

If it was the hood latch switch, it would not even try to start the vehicle, as that is a safety against someone working on the engine with the hood up. My suspicions fall on a bad module at this point. If it cranks strong manually and you have no other issues, it seems to point to the module itself. Shame the dealer was too annoyed to help.

 

I found this while hunting around in the DIYChilton.com manual.

View attachment RF Hub.pdf

 

well this is infinitely cheaper and looks more straight forward than changing the whole module. the Module is about 250 online. :/ and my car is out of warranty. I'm handy and dont mind, but hope this is it and im not chasing the red herring.

Thank you the help.

 

interesting, the remote hub info lead to this TSB...

https://www.dodgedurango.net/forums...-if-you-have-2014-dodge-durango-you-might-want-call-your-service-guy-gal-2.html

 

You know I should have knocked on wood after making my comment earlier. Grrr....:evil:

In the last week or so I have developed an issue with the remote start function. About every 3rd or 4th times when I try to use the remote start it will not function. The parking lights flash as normal but the engine will not start - not even an attempt to start. Made sure all the typical criteria were meet; doors, hood and hatch closed, doors locked, windows up, enough gas in the tank, etc.. This morning when it happened, I went out and stood next to the driver's door. I could see the message on the dash saying that the system was disabled. I have read that the system remembers that last four events, so I will not try the remote start again and will try the scan tool when I get home this evening to see if there are any fault codes. I already have an appointment at the dealership next week (rapidly approaching the end of the extended warrant period) so I will add this to the list of things for them to check out.

 

I down loaded the TBS #08-100-15 and read it. This may or may not be my problem because it reminded me that the power lift gate failed to open a couple of times awhile back which was one of the reason I put fresh batteries in the FOB's. Oh well, we shall see next week what the dealership service department finds.

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_0810015.pdf

In reviewing my maintenance records for my Durango, the RFH has already received the #18-19-12-99 update on 4-25-16 and again on 10-24-16. I am wondering if during the U06 recall and corresponding reflash of the RFH that something could have been messed up?

 

Thanks Deacon, let me know what the dealer says about your previous attempts.

Also I have a suspicion that its battery related because I just do short trips and it has been cold here. And I may not be giving the battery enough time to charge. What i'm going to do is check the battery in the AM to see whats its resting voltage is. I may also put a portable jumper battery on it and try to to see if it remote starts. If it does, then it may just mean the battery needs to be charged or replaced.

 

I had a similar issues, I have 2014 RT ... I ended up changing the battery. I also noticed my uconnect was taking longer to start up. Once I changed the battery my issues went away, also noticed how quick my Rango starts now. I would change it!

 

I plug in the scan tool this morning and found no codes. I then tried to do the battery load test - turn the head lamps on and wait 30 secs. The scan tool said the battery was not sufficiency charged to perform the test. Hmmm... interesting - I drove it home from work last evening and just parked it outside as normal. So I hooked up the AGM battery charger and will let is charge up the battery and then re-test. My Durango was built in Sept '13 so the factory battery is +5 years old with +65K miles of use. I think I will double check Advance Auto as I have a $20 Speed Peaks reward to use and I have a 20% off on-line promo code good to the 23rd. If the battery does need to be changed, I plan to hook up a second battery via the jump starting posts to keep all the systems and control modules powered to prevent the memory from being lost during the change.

 

I charged the battery up and re-run the load test. it went thought the headlamps on for 30 second and then turn off the headlamps and to start the engine three times in a row. The battery passed the load test. I then ran the alternator charging test - hold the warmed up engine above 2000 RPM with the lights on for 20 seconds. The alternator passed the charging test. So the problem with the remote start become deactivated is most likely not related to the charging system. So I will have to wait for the dealership to look at the stored info on the last four remote start events to find what caused the system to become deactivated. But at least I don't have to spend money today on a new battery.

 

Can I jump aboard? My remote start behaves just a little different than the other descriptions. In my case it cranks over hard (NOT weak)--but only for what seems like 1 revolution. IF it starts instantly then I'm good to go. Often it needs a bit more crank than that. NO codes or other issues at all. Is there no way to extend the crank time a little bit more to give it a decent chance of firing?

 

How many miles on those spark plugs?

 

I think I'm at 117,000 now. I know it's due for 16 plugs but--Are you suggesting that it's SUPPOSED to start EVERY TIME in 1 revolution? All other remote start systems I've experienced crank much longer.

 

The dealership could not learn anything as to why the remote start had deactivated. They tried the system several time but could not get it to misbehave, so I will just have to wait and see if the system acts up again,

As far as the spark plugs go, a fresh set should makes for quicker and easier starts this time of year, so they could only help - especially with the old ones having 117K miles on them.

 

Hey everyone.

Wanted to share an update.

Thinking that it may have been the battery, I went ahead and went to advanced auto parts and got a H9 battery with 950CCA for about 160 with tax (holiday special). Then drove it 2 hours to PA. Ever since then, the auto start has been working flawlessly, even in the coldest of days.

So it may have been the battery after all. The battery was simple to replace, however the new battery is a bit bigger than the OEM , but i was able to make it fit without the fitting bracket.

Car starts faster now as well. so i'm a happy camper.

Cheers