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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DISCLAIMER: By using this guide, you take all responsibility for your install and actions you perform.

For those people (like myself) who really don't like molded splash guards, universal fits tend to work out pretty well. My general go-to for universal fits are Highland Duralife Splash Guards, but I was having some trouble finding them plain and without logos. Decided to pick up a pair of RallyArmor universal fits that have worked out pretty well.

What you'll need:
-RallyArmor Univeral Fit Splash Guards; p/n: MF12-BAS-BLK
-Vinyl protection (such as 3M Clear guard or any roll of vinyl sticker will work)
-Crayons (White and another color) [wax pens are an alternative]
-Drill
-Drill Bits
-Screw drivers
-Small level
-Tape measure
-Utility knife
-Blank paper
-Awl (optional)
-Plastic Rivet Tool; p/n: BK7702865 (NAPA) [This is the best deal, as it comes with the tool and a few packs of various plastic rivets, one of which you will need]
-Plastic Rivets; p/n: 770-2871 (NAPA) [optional part numbers: Mopar P/N: 6500911; JustForJeeps P/N: 13750
-Level surface for vehicle

Tip: MAKE SURE you have a pack of 20 or 25 plastic rivets. I didn't actually use all 20 from my pack on the vehicle, but with some not setting right, I went through almost all of them. This is also why I suggest avoiding the Mopar/Dealer parts at almost $7 a piece!!! I like the NAPA ones better than the Mopar ones I bought anyway.

Most pics I took were during the front install, but work for both





REARS
  1. Remove the rear wheels. It's easiest to take the wheels off the rear to get this done and have room to work. Check vehicle level as well, since this can also impact your install!
  2. Test fit and hold them up to the rear to get some idea of how long you want them to hang down/ stick out the side. A helper here will be best, as you can step back and eye-ball to see how they will look. You can start to use your white crayon to mark the guard.
  3. Make a horizontal line at the very bottom where the last contact point with the vehicle is (see pic 1), use your tape measure and level to ensure it's level as crooked splash guards look AWFUL!.
  4. Using the horizontal line, place the splash guard back up and re-check placement and mark splash guard with the contour/profile (see pic 1).


    (PICTURE 1 - Line Markings)
  5. RECHECK fitment to make sure that's how you want it to sit/look/locate, use a helper!
  6. Use your white crayon to also mark the vehicle where the guards will sit, you'll need those marks later.
  7. Get a fender rubbing using a color crayon and a blank piece of paper (see pic 2)


    (PICTURE 2 - Fender Rubbings)
  8. Cut the outer edge of the fender rubbing paper and match up to the line you traced on the splash guard (the paper will be upside down so make a small hole on the center of each screw/rivet mark.
  9. Use an awl or small screw driver to firmly press through the paper hole to make a mark on the splash guard
  10. Drill a small pilot hole in the splash guard
  11. Remove screws and plastic rivets on the fender. The plastic rivets will require a drill and some elbow grease, GO SLOW! You don't want to drill through the bumper or lower valences.
  12. With the screws and rivets out, test fit the splash guard again, use small screw drivers, toothpicks, your 2nd pair of hands to make sure it lines up, and sits where you want it to.
  13. Apply the vinyl protector to the area. This step is not HUGELY required for the R/T, since it's only contacting painted plastic pieces, but it's just a bit of extra protection (see pic 3 and 4)



    (PICTURE 3 & 4 - Vinyl Protection, all I could find locally was this carbon fiber stuff, but it works)
  14. Drill the splash guard holes to the proper size. The plastic rivets are 1/4" drill bit size. I don't recall what the push-pin rivets or screws were.
  15. Test-fit the guard again! Use the screws, rivets, push-pins, and your second set of hands.
  16. Install the lower screw and the upper plastic rivet
  17. Drill an additional TWO holes and use an additional plastic rivet to tighten up and pull in the splash guard (see pic 5 & 6)


    (PICTURE 5 - Additional plastic rivet on rear)


    (PICTURE 6 - Two additional rivets installed on rear)
  18. Done and Clean Up!


FRONTS
The fronts are a bit more complicated as they require some additional cutting, but it's worth it.
  1. You don't need to remove the front wheels, simply turn them one direction or anther to work each side. Check vehicle level as well, since this can also impact your install!
  2. Test fit and hold them up to the front to get some idea of how long you want them to hang down/ stick out the side. A helper here will be best, as you can step back and eye-ball to see how they will look. You can start to use your white crayon to mark the guard.
  3. Make a horizontal line at the very bottom where the last contact point with the vehicle is (see pic 1 above), use your tape measure and level to ensure it's level as crooked splash guards look AWFUL!.
  4. Using the horizontal line, place the splash guard back up and re-check placement and mark splash guard with the contour/profile (see pic 1 above).
  5. RECHECK fitment to make sure that's how you want it to sit/look/locate, use a helper!
  6. Use your white crayon to also mark the vehicle where the guards will sit, you'll need those marks later.
  7. Get a fender rubbing using a color crayon and a blank piece of paper (see pic 2 above)
  8. Cut the outer edge of the fender rubbing paper and match up to the line you traced on the splash guard (the paper will be upside down so make a small hole on the center of each screw/rivet mark.
  9. Use an awl or small screw driver to firmly press through the paper hole to make a mark on the splash guard
  10. Drill a small pilot hole in the splash guard
  11. Remove screws and plastic rivets on the fender. The plastic rivets will require a drill and some elbow grease, GO SLOW! You don't want to drill through the bumper or lower valences.
  12. With the screws and rivets out, test fit the splash guard again, use small screw drivers, toothpicks, your 2nd pair of hands to make sure it lines up, and sits where you want it to.
  13. Apply the vinyl protector to the area. This step is not HUGELY required for the R/T, since it's only contacting painted plastic pieces, but it's just a bit of extra protection (see pic 3 and 4 above)
  14. Drill the splash guard holes to the proper size. The plastic rivets are 1/4" drill bit size. I don't recall what the push-pin rivets or screws were.
  15. Test-fit the guard again! Use the screws, rivets, push-pins, and your second set of hands.
  16. Due to the contour of the inner fender well, you'll need some additional modifications and cuts
  17. While test-fitted, use your white crayon to mark the start of the contour and the bottom where the inner well stops
  18. Drill a 1/4 hole at the bottom mark (see pic 7)
  19. Cut the fender down to the hole (see pic 7)
  20. Cut horizontally to the inside of the vehicle (see pic 7)
  21. Cut a small section where it may interfere with the front suspension brace (see pic 7)


    (PICTURE 7 - Cut front splash guard)
  22. Install the two lower plastic rivets and the upper push-pin rivet
  23. Drill an additional hole and use an additional plastic rivet to secure the lower part of the splash guard to the lower fascia (see pic 8)


    (PICTURE 8 - Additional Plastic rivet in lower front splash guard)
  24. Done and Clean Up!


For my own install, they hang down about 3" from the bottom edge.
Rear close up:


Front close up:


Side view:



 

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Wow ...great write up and nice job!
Steve
 

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Great contribution to the forum. Nice Job and looks good! If we don't have it already, we should create a "How-To's" section and start posting threads like this in it... Believe there are a bunch of other threads on the forum we could put there as well...
 

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Great write-up Suli!!!...I wonder who told you about Rally Armor?... Ha ha they work and look great on my rally car so figured they would also look great on the DD...just wasn't sure about the fitment... I can't believe I missed this post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, they're great so far. The cost was just around what I usually pay for the highland universal fits as well, so it was a no brain'r to try them out.

I scanned in what I made for templates as well if anyone wants them, I'll need to see where I saved them off to.
 

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I'm going to order them and try installing them with some less permanent hardware... are there are factory screws or plastic pop rivets in the liner that I can just replace with some stainless hardware?

My rally armor flaps for my Evo came with metal threaded clips that went behind the liner and stainless screws. Looking to do the same for the D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There are some of those plastic rivets where these go. There are some small re-usable ones for GM's that have the pushpin centers that I had temporary holding one in until I got the rivet tool and plastic rivets.
 
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