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Swingshiftworker

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
FYI, I took some shots of the engine compartment and pipes. It's kinda hard to see the TB & M1 under the airhat and all the tubing & wiring, but they're there. The headers are the most obvious addition and I must say it's nice to see the ceramic coated headers instead of the rusted stock exhaust manifolds.

The undercarriage shot is from the back and shows the 3" crossover from the driver side header which connects directly into left side of the x-pipe. The right header is routed directly via a 3" connector into the right side of the x-pipe, which is then connected to the Spintech muffler which has two 2.5" outlets which are split (left & right) with slashcut circular tips at the rear.
 

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Wow!

Now that's cool! Your mileage may increase as the PCM gets used to the new flow.
Can you take a shot with the airhat off so we can see that sweet M1? Where do you feel the engine pull hardest? Where's the torque band now?

Bill
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Re: Wow!

Volphin said:
Now that's cool! Your mileage may increase as the PCM gets used to the new flow.
Can you take a shot with the airhat off so we can see that sweet M1? Where do you feel the engine pull hardest? Where's the torque band now?

Bill
I'll see what I can do about posting a shot of the TB & M1.

Not sure where the "torque band" is now, but the engine starts to pull hardest around 3-3.5k and will run all the way up to just around 5k before shifting in WOT.

I have run it with OD off until it shifts thru the final gear up to 4-5k and, when I turn the OD back on and it shifts again, it's already going over 100 and all of the mass and momentum just continue to take it higher.

Haven't gone over 110 in the speedo, which is probably more like 115 or so (since I'm running 32x11.5x15's BFGs which isn't adjusted for with the B&G M1 flash.)
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
DurangoDude said:
Looks VERY good man!!

When you're ready for that blower? make sure you invest in some ported heads and the right cam. TRUST me, well worth it! :D
Unfortunately, I think you're right. If I do go the S/C route, I'd probably want to get the ported heads, a new cam, roller rockers and a pair of polished or chromed valve covers, as well, which would bring the cost up to around $10k instead of $6k. But, my motto is: If you're going to do it, do it RIGHT! :wink:
 
Factory Presets

Can our top speed be, uh, reset at the PCM?
I'm unaware of all variables you can upgrade with B&G firmware.
I know timing and shift points, but what about max speed and max cruise? It's MOST irritating to have a "factory" cruise limit at 84 mph. I'm regularly at 3 digits in my rice burner. (Properly equipped of course.) The D has seen it once or twice. But I like setting the cruise at 88-90.

Bill
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Re: Factory Presets

Volphin said:
Can our top speed be, uh, reset at the PCM?
I'm unaware of all variables you can upgrade with B&G firmware.
I know timing and shift points, but what about max speed and max cruise? It's MOST irritating to have a "factory" cruise limit at 84 mph. I'm regularly at 3 digits in my rice burner. (Properly equipped of course.) The D has seen it once or twice. But I like setting the cruise at 88-90.

Bill
The B&G Flash (as well as the Superchips Programmer) reset the speed and RPM limiters to higher levels. If I recall, B&G said that top speed for a 5.9L D is reset to around 135 and RPM around 5500. You'd have to call B&G to verify the #'s, but they're in that range. Superchips Program limits are lower than B&G's but still higher than stock. As for cruise control, don't know why you'd want to set it higher than 84 (never tried setting it higher than 75 myself), but can't say if the B&G Flash or Superchips Programmer would affect that.
 
PCM

The Mopar Performance PCM gives you an almost unlimited cruise setting. I have taken it well beyond the stock 84 mph and had no problems with any of the cruise functions. I really don't know what the top limit's for cruise on this PCM.
 
That Set-up Rocks!

Thanks RobDA! That's an awesome image. I'm going to do the same set-up. I have got my 1.7s, and soon I'll have the hardened pushrods and HD springs. I'm just thinking out loud here? I wonder what would happen if I used a 4bbl M1 with a 2bbl adapter plate? That way if I supercharge down the road, I could remove the adapter, go with a 4bbl TB and see a higher flow. But I'm NOT a SC expert. Just seems like in the old days we went for all the flow we could get.

Thanks for living Aloha.
I miss the dirt.

Bill
 
Diff Cover

Sure can! :D

http://www.mag-hytec.com/ $240+$10 ship
or
http://www.dieselsitetoo.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=210
$240+free ship. I got my diff from MH, my trans pan from DST. Both guys were SUPER NICE, but the guy from DST called me up and said he had an order coming in and was concerned about my lead time. I assured him it was OK, I'm in no rush. (NEVER rush a mod :oops: .) Funny, it arrived next day. :D

Oh, if you're gonna do a diff, you need to add shims to your rear sway bar. I can post a diagram (Thanks Big Al) if you need it. They cost about $27 to make.

Bill
 
Diff cover

Ouch! $240 isn't what I was expecting - I'll have to think about that one a bit. I don't think my sway bar is an issue on my 99 - I'll go take a look?Yeah mine is 1" above the top of the diff. Must be a year difference.

Thanks for posting your source! Nice D, wish I had ~70 more HP! My trouble now's my two other cars and house which currently use up all my 'modding' money?the D got about $3K last year though, so I don't feel too bad.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Re: Diff cover

Smash said:
Ouch! $240 isn't what I was expecting - I'll have to think about that one a bit. I don't think my sway bar is an issue on my 99 - I'll go take a look?Yeah mine is 1" above the top of the diff. Must be a year difference.

Thanks for posting your source! Nice D, wish I had ~70 more HP! My trouble now's my two other cars and house which currently use up all my 'modding' money?the D got about $3K last year though, so I don't feel too bad.
FWIW, there's a photo of Mopar's chrome diff cover on my D above and it only cost $80 (including the bolts and tax) but excluding labor (which is free if you do it yourself.)
 
Diff Cover

I'm pretty sure you'd have to shim it if you use an AL cover, but I believe the chrome one is stock capacity.

No biggie though. My grandma could do that mod. :)

Bill
 
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