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Hello Durango Owners/Enthusiasts/Experts,

Many have wondered what the deal is with the popping sound made in the front end when moving the vehicle into, or from, a parked position. Many have failed to answer back with "it is you CV axle. When symptoms are:

1. pops at slow speeds
2. more frequent when the front bounces
3. happens more frequent when the wheel is turned to the right when moving forward, or to the left, when backing up.

then you will likely find your problem by checking your passenger-side axle's length with the wheels pointed to the right, to the left, with weight on wheels and also with weight OFF the wheels. you will notice that the length between your hub and where the axle marries to the transcase differs. somewhere within that, the 2000 to 2003 durangos with a front end that has been altered with non-factory specs, will have to contend with said popping sound and it's implications.

Here is my story....

After Eating a Beamer, rebuilding the front end, stretching the front part of the frame rails straighter with porta-power pneudraulics and applying a maximum torsion bar lift....I still believe the adjustments made for the torsion bar lift is causing the CV axle to pop past the clip on the driveaxle shaft coming out of the case and causing the gears to pop. Not ENTIRELY sure. But the theory is sound and money will inevitably have to be spent on it either way.

In taking the following into account:

1. The casing within the front end of a 2000 to 2003 Dodge Durango, (possibly with all Durangos), is offset to the left (driver's) side causing the right side of the casing to the hub of the right (passenger wheel) to be a longer distance the that of the left (driver's) side. Not a a design flaw, just part of the Durango's genius ;)

It makes the popping sound on the right due to the extension of the front end suspension, which may stretch the limits of the right side CV axle with it already reaching further to meet the case than the axle on the left.I believe that as the tie rods keep the wheels pointing straight ahead, the distance is primed for speed on the straight and nothing is out of position in the front end. When the wheels turn to the left, the tie rod on the right, pulls the right-side axle towards the case (truly helpful when you hear the CV axle pop past the clip on the axle shaft which is meant to keep the CV axle sleeve on, simply turn the wheel to the left and push that bish back in homie };)> this is due to the camber and caster of the wheel at the time of the popping sound.

Changes in camber and caster changes the spin point center line, or whatever, to change from being within limits, when the popping does not happen. Stretch suspension, good. stretch CV axle bad. This concept is applicable to how high the lift is. Ultimately, if you change the degree of the axle to an extreme, then this pimping experience, I mean POPPING, will be a new addition to your belt of shame. Ha, just kidding. really though, get a new CV axle of the proper length, add shims or whatever, to ensure the CV axles stay within their comfort zones as the twins are reluctant to change, unless said change is compensated for (ie raised/lowered rack, axle extensions, etcetra)

When the wheels are pointed to the right, and the camber and caster is in an odd way, the tie rod is actually pulling the right side axle away from the case it is attached to. With the spin point of the wheel being changed to a particular degree, the stretching of the axle can occur, giving you the popping sound. when moving in any direction slow enough, you may actually feel the gear teeth snapping off of each other as the sleeve of a CV axle slides out so far as to let the edge of the teeth inside the sleeve of said CV axles to "flick" off of the teeth of the axles shaft coming out of the case (possibly even vice versa with the hub)
. eventually your teeth will disappear and just make the sound of a steel cylinder spinning around another steel cylinder. This is no guh

I have had this problem for as long as the phantom EVAP leak engine light thing, the phantom simultaneous ABS and emergency light thing, and the blasted intermittent window master switch thingcombined and went through only two CV axles on the right side, wootiewooooot. Fuc it. Ima go crazay and let it happen out of spite for its existence as an issue. Shitll buff out. really tho, its a durango.

Anyways, all ignorance aside, Ima start with lowering the front end with the torsion bars, as close to spec as I can get, to see if it changes things. If that doesn't work, I will be back to continue searching this thread for answers regarding the reason for my ending up here through Google. after the torsion bar lift, my front end sways more, when going 90+. how dare it. lifting the front end was perfect for hitting a washboard of whoops for extend periods of time. allowed more travel in the front end as the back just skids behind. in 4HI ;)kissestransfercaseemoji-like hashtag......douches

Kinda sucks when a girl that digs mechs is looking as you back into a parking spot, only to have that phantom popping sound haunt the rest of your lives together forever. FIX YOUR DANG FRONT END BEFORE IT PUTS YOU INTO A TREE, KNUCKLEHEADS! or worse, let's you live without the ability to use the gas pedal ever again....GAME OVER bro. happy trail-hoppin, highway-speedin, traffic-dodgin, drag-racing and MUDDIN!...while yall still cannnn. aint gon be long with a sketchy front end bro but I been in some shit before boy let me tell you whuuuu.........

Truly Yours,
DeeDee's Personal Mech

2003 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7l V8 MAGNUM 4X4 with ghettolevel modifications pimmmmmpin' tinted dark blue queen of the night bro.

P.S.: She got a bug deflector too ;*
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