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I have a 2005 5.7 Durango that has this buildup under the oil cap and I’ve been having overheating problems. Overheats just sitting. I’ve changed the thermostat and inspected the coolant hoses and there fine. No heat also. I’ve burped the system a couple times now and I’m not sure where to go from here. Also it’s throwing a misfire on cylinder 2 and 5 so I’m gonna check the plugs on those and go from there. What should I look for when I check the plugs?
 

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2021 Durango GT Plus AWD
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Be sure that you have properly bled the trapped air out of the 5.7. Below is a procedure I have successfully used numerous times on my '06 5.7 Daytona Hemi:
It help to elevate the front end (I like running my 5.7 '06 Daytona up on ramp stands), check to verify that the new t-stat is installed with the jiggle vent valve up in the 12 o'clock position. Before I warm up the engine, on my '06, there is a 1/4" threaded plug on the housing that I remove and install a threaded barbed fitting to which I attach about a 6 ft. hose, and carefully route away from moving parts out the front to a clean empty bucket. I stuff a bolt into the bucket end of the hose until the engine warms and the t-stat opens, all the while keeping my burp funnel filled with coolant mix. Once warm, wearing gloves, I carefully use a pliers (hose and coolant will be HOT!) and pull the bolt to allow trapped air and coolant to drain into bucket while keeping the funnel topped off. After a few minutes of revving and looking for air bubbles in the bucket, I carefully pinch off the hose, block it with the bolt and shut off the engine. Once cooled, I remove the hose and barbed fitting, replacing it with the 1/4" threaded plug. Check your coolant level the next morning and top off as needed.

Also, Google a Lisle funnel kit at auto parts stores like O'Reilly's, etc., even on Amazon. Best filling funnel for these.

As for plugs - all 16! - keep in mind that OE plugs are copper on our older Hemis. Look for the usual - any porcelain cracks, oil residue/crud fouling the tips, excessively worn tips, and as they go past the recommended 30K mile mark change, the gaps tend to widen quite a bit, which can also cause mis-fires. Make sure they are the correct p/n as well, and when buying and installing new plugs, NEVER trust that the gaps are correct out of the box. On average, out of 16, I usually find 1 or 2 with wrong gaps that need adjusting before installing.
 

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Per the 'build up' you mention.... you may have already, but pull your oil dip stick to make sure your oil still resembles 'oil'....as in not having an un-natural appearance or 'milky' appearance resulting from possible coolant contamination in the oil.
 

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2017 AWD durango GT 3.6
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Not sure about the 2005 5.7 cooling system but if it still has a thermo clutch fan (just looked it up and it does) that could be the reason it overheats. My 99 wj would overheat in traffic but was fine on the highway. After changing a lot of components and flushing the system with no improvement I finally replaced the thermo clutch and it solved my problem.

As for the buildup, my 99 4.7 wj and 02 3.7 liberty had milky residue on/in the oil fill tube which was due to condensation. Replacing my PCV seemed to help...at least on my liberty which I also switched over to full synthetic oil.
 

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Re the milky crap in the oil fill port, Dodge calls it "emulsion." The plastic does not warm up in cold weather like the metal parts, and that causes condensation. As long as the "crap" is confined to the fill port, you should be good. A good quality oil, especially a synthetic, is less likely to have emulsion to the extent you have there. Very short trips in cold weather, where the engine does not get up to operating temp, contributes to this.

Don
 

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If you are compelled, you could run a compression check when you change the plugs. You could also put an inspection camera in there to see the condition of the pistons, walls, and valves.
 
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